engine degreaser

[spazegun2213]

So i now have that 300lb block of iron sitting on a floor spilling all sorts of stuff everywhere. Before i get into rebuilding it i would like to clean it up a little so its eaiser to work on. Any degreaser reccomendations?

thanks

 

[5-90]

LPS Precision Clean usually works for me on the tough jobs - if that doesn't do it, then I'll get out the Tide and stiff brushes...

It is best to rinse your engine (when it's out and exposed" with the hottest water you can handle - run a hose from teh drain valve on your water heater for manximum efffect

5-90

 

[spazegun2213]

LPS Precision Clean usually works for me on the tough jobs - if that doesn't do it, then I'll get out the Tide and stiff brushes...

It is best to rinse your engine (when it's out and exposed" with the hottest water you can handle - run a hose from teh drain valve on your water heater for manximum efffect

5-90

Being in college I'm a little cheap, so Tide it is

Also, arnt parts of the engine steel? so they will rust easliy, so wash them off and dry them?

 

[Bloose]

External parts can be washed with detergent and hot water, or Gunk. I personally like Gunk the best. Don't use any of the "Foamy" engine cleaners. As for internals get some engine flush and a brush. Works well and is not water based so will not rust internal parts. I wouldn't use any water based cleaners on the internals, no mater how much drying you do you'll never get all the water out.

B-loose

 

[jeepguy97]

Wash with whatever engine degreaser. After you tear it down wash again with the hottest water you can (make sure you use a hot water hose, or prepare to be scalded when the other busts) and oil the cylinders and anything you dont want to rust after blow (shop air) drying everything.

 

[Gridikal]

GUNK it to death, rent a steam cleaner: repeat

 

[5-90]

Wash with whatever engine degreaser. After you tear it down wash again with the hottest water you can (make sure you use a hot water hose, or prepare to be scalded when the other busts) and oil the cylinders and anything you dont want to rust after blow (shop air) drying everything.

Here's my method - this works on everything!

Wash thoroughly with HOT water and degreaser of choice (I like Tide for tough jobs, and auto dishwashing soap works as well.)

Rinse thoroughtly with HOT water. Remove ALL traces of soap!

Spray liberally with WD-40. The "WD" stands for "Water Displacer" - it's formulated to get in between the water and the metal surface and keep the two from touching. It is NOT a lubricant, like everyone thinks it is!

After the water is displaced, coat with an even layer of clean engine oil, light grease, or assembly lubricant. If you plan on long-term storage, use "White" lithium grease, as it is designed for boat trailer bearings and is waterproof AND water displacing!

5-90

 

[Bloose]

Spray liberally with WD-40. The "WD" stands for "Water Displacer" - it's formulated to get in between the water and the metal surface and keep the two from touching. It is NOT a lubricant, like everyone thinks it is!


5-90

That'd work too

B-loose

 

[FUNKYTEE5]

So i now have that 300lb block of iron sitting on a floor spilling all sorts of stuff everywhere. Before i get into rebuilding it i would like to clean it up a little so its eaiser to work on. Any degreaser reccomendations?

thanks

If you can find any Landa pressure washing retailers, try some degreaser called "Dynamight" We use it at my workplace to rid boomtrucks, tow trucks, and other industrial rigs of grease and hydraulic fluid gunk before prepping and painting. It works excellent with a pressure washer. It comes in concentrated form and can be diluted with water. It's about the strongest you can get without getting into solvents. By far the best degreaser I have ever used or heard of! Make sure to blow it dry with compressed air, then water will not be an issue. It's always nice to start with clean pieces! Good luck!