Dyno Test - What's wrong ?

DR. DYNO
5-90
===
I'll go with the 68mm TB.

"enlarge the intake manifold plenum opening to match". Any suggestion on the intake, or the existing one should be fine ???

Thanks for the advise.

I'll post up the DYNO TEST Results...
 
I can't wait to see the new dyno results.

The general consensus on the intake manifold is to run the newer style 99' and up because it has equal length runners. To do so you also need the accompanying power steering pump and bracket.
 
goodburbon said:
I can't wait to see the new dyno results.

The general consensus on the intake manifold is to run the newer style 99' and up because it has equal length runners. To do so you also need the accompanying power steering pump and bracket.
Click to expand...

OK, I'll get the 68mm as well as the newer manifold. Don't worry about bracket, as long as the exhaust header flange remains the same...

current XJ... (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87268&page=24)
full-car-view.jpg



all WALKER EVANS 4-Link DUAL RATE COIL-OVER SUSPENSION (all 4-link Set-Up)
rear-view-1.jpg


​
Paging BrettM,
I am in the process of install your Transmission Electronic Module right now. I'll post up picture of it...
Just need to figure out where I want to place the electronic Paddle Shifter (or go back to JOYSTICK...)

QUESTION :
Anyone familiar with finte-tuning the Compression and Rebound Rate valve shims on Walker Evans Shocks ?. It seems to me that after removing some of the internal valve shims, the shocks seems still a little bit on the firm side (kick-back).
Combined Coils rate, Front (250-275), Rear (200-225)

I have contacted Walker Evans, but still got no response...

I know about KING-SHOCKS, SWAY-A-WAY, but this is my first time with walker evans....
 
Last edited:
Suwedan said:
hi dr dyno I Want my jeep engine 4.0l high performance
I Want 500 hp for my engine for racing
my name . suwedan
email [email protected]
Click to expand...

Build a 4.7L stroker using Eagle forged rods and custom forged pistons, port the head using larger 2.02" intake valves (keep the stock 1.50" exhaust valves), aim for a 9.2:1 CR, and go for 8.0psi of intercooled turbo boost. The result will be something in the region of 400hp/500lbft.
 
ok Dr. Dyno
where is P/N turpb .
in my engine
in my engine stroker 5.0l and piston for turbo and cam cro-44254 and cylinder head aluminum
I Want turbo for engine
 
If your just looking for best dyno numbers then I would say your on the right track. With stock cam and muffler I would say lean her out a bit and watch the number go up.
If your going to recam and/or change the X pipes leave the A/F alone until you done tinkering. I bet your new chip is blowing off the O2s and a cam/X change can make a big difference in your A/F. Much like the old days of non computer controlled carbs and FI.
If your looking for real world proference improvements. Then get some 1/8 1/4 mile or what ever you use over their and 30-60 times. Dyno numbers can be of unmeasurable help but going faster is the real acid test. Also see if you can get your readout as a graph. Why? Because I like them.
 
Dr. Dyno said:
Build a 4.7L stroker using Eagle forged rods and custom forged pistons, port the head using larger 2.02" intake valves (keep the stock 1.50" exhaust valves), aim for a 9.2:1 CR, and go for 8.0psi of intercooled turbo boost. The result will be something in the region of 400hp/500lbft.
Click to expand...

Suwedan, if you want 500hp, just simply do what I suggested above and also add a 100 shot of nitrous.
 
I think thats REALLY pushing it for a nodular cast crank...but on the other hand, the :explosion will be spectacular.
 
tealcherokee said:
i forsee a blown motor
Click to expand...

Is that blown as in forced fed or blown as in converted to shrapnel? I would agree if the crank was left as it came from the factory but if you have it balanced and nitrided, it should stand up to 500hp without too much problem. I did mention earlier that the pistons and rods should be forged.
With 500hp and 650lbft from a nitrous turbo stroker, it's the drivetrain that's gonna be blown to smithereens long before the engine succumbs. Suwedan, are you listening? If you're serious about having that much power you'd better upgrade the tranny, TC, driveshafts, rear axle, brakes, and suspension first in addition to the engine. You'll also need a very fat wallet so start saving those Saudi Riyals.
 
So....
how much power would you feel safe about putting through stock 4.2 rods and
aftermarket cast pistons? (balenced of course)
 
streetpirate said:
So....
how much power would you feel safe about putting through stock 4.2 rods and aftermarket cast pistons? (balenced of course)
Click to expand...

A 5.5psi supercharged stroker with cast pistons and 4.2 rods should live comfortably putting out 375hp/450lbft as long as you keep the rev limiter near stock.
 
I would at least have the rods magnafluxed, shotpeened and resized...with some good ARP rod bolts...they are CAST after all...definately keep the r's down...the rod lenght to stroke ratio will not be as good as the 4.0 crank. side load on the piston skirts will be increased.

I'm no fan of traditional forged pistons because of how sloppy you need to clearance them...Hypereutecic pistons are a good compromise...stable enough to run at tight clearance...but stronger than traditional cast pistons.
 
lol perfect!

ill never have to go forged to meet my goals!

i cant wait for 300hp in the second, then 375 in the third stage.
my xj is the fastest car ive driven(or it feels the fastest) its going to be
great having a daily driver thats fast.

im putting my plymouth back together starting tonight and going through the 3 day weekend for a backup car. My first V8!
 
I have a NOS progressive controller layin' around somewhere...and some fogger jets up to size 50....if that don't break it...nuthin' will.

It's a shame it ain't a 4 banger...I got a spare Schnitz Pro Mod controller..that thing will do everything but refill your nitrous cylinders. Two progressive nitrous stages, adjustable ramp rates and build times, integrated ignition, Adjustable retard ramp rates and time, Hi rev limiter, two step, Two timers for toys like a throttle stop, inputs and onboard diagnostics.

And you are going to need a O-ringed or power ringed head and block so all the expensive parts will exit the oil pan instead of blowing out head gaskets.

If you put nitrous on your motor...leak it down before, and leak it down after a few passes on juice...if it don't break, that sucker will SEAL.
 
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