Drivers Side outer u-joint replacement

[87Bertone]

Greetings All-

I've recently acquired a 1996 cherokee sport (my first jeep, after wanting one since I was a little kid!) and I have a technical question I'd like some help on.

The drivers side front end makes a loud clicking noise when I take a slow turn, and when I was crawling underneath to determine the source I noticed the outer u-joint is toast. My question is for the Forum to comment on how tough it is to replace this ujoint? The haynes manual makes it look like it can't be done in the driveway, but I can't believe that. Do I need to tear out the ball joints, etc, or can I get to it from banging out the hub from behind and removing the axle? If there are any specific points you guys have, I'd be grateful. I'll also post some comments after I'm done - either do's or don'ts. TIA - Dan

 

[XJ_MAC]

It can be done in the drive. Remove tire, brakes, and then the hub. Make sure to support the axle when pulling it out so as not to damage the seal that is right next to the diff. pumpkin. There are several discussions on the old forums as to methods of removing the hubs.

 

[87Bertone]

I discovered some good stuff after a search

You're right, I did another u-joint search and found alot of data! I'll dive in and call for help if I get stuck. Thanks!

 

[Lou]

Dan,

Just so we don't get razzed for posting OEM stuff in the Mod forum, let's pretend you will be using a non-OE u-joint. (use the OE/spicer u-joint though -- they are stronger).

U-joint replacement can be done anywhere, if you have the tools.
And, it seems the more experience you have, the less tools you will need.

Sockets, bench-vice, hammer.

I've only done it once. At first, it seemed daunting, but when it was over, it's actually pretty easy.

My biggest problem was trying to remove the hub nut. Broke a couple of cheap sockets. In the end, I pulled the axel with the hub attached. Search on here for 'sacrificial bolts' if you have problems removing the hub.

Most of the methods I've seen involve using a vise, and a small, and large socket to press out, and press in the u-joints.

This link shows how to do it with just a hammer.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/

I think if you have the vise, then use the vise. The hammer can be used to tap, once installed, to relieve any binding.

In the end, I ended up buy a cheapie u-joint intall/removal tool(fancy lookin' C-clamp) for about 30 bucks. The sockets kept slipping out of place.

If you go to www.madxj.com there is a tech note there on axel replacement. It does not deal with u-joint replacement, directly, but will give you some perpective(pictures) on the axel removal process.

-don't add extra grease to the Spicer joints
-make extra sure the roller bearings are straight.


In a perfect world;

1) loosen hub nut with wheel on the ground.
2) lift vehicle
3) remove wheel
4) move brake caliper outa da way/rotor
5) remove hub nut/axel
6) replace u-joint

(reverse process)

and your done.

Search in the OEM forum. There should be something about u-joint replacement.

EDIT: Man! i'm a slow typist....There were no replies when I stated typing.

 

[Neil]

I have an 87 with 260's and they don't look like they can be replaced (no curclip) am I wrong? Is there a method to replace these?

 

[ChuckD]

Niel I have the 36mm socket.

 

[Neil]

I have a 36 mm socket too. :b but the joint looks like it's welded in

 

[ChuckD]

Well, wheel the sucker and break it. It should come loose then. Who cares anyway, they are the 260 joints. We need to find you some 297's.

 

[87Bertone]

96 Cherokee u-joint replacement - conclusion

Gentlemen:

The conclusion of the story is that the removal of the hub, etc went very smoothly. Some comments to help anyone else in my situation:

1. I didn't need to remove the hub at all, nor did I try to. I removed the wheel, caliper, disk, the 3 mounting bolts, and then soaked everything with PB. While it soaked, I went to the local Jeep dealer (2 miles away) and bought 3 new bolts as I anticipated destroying the originals with a BFH.

2. Turns out I didn't even need 10 nice raps with the BFH on the 2 bolts I could reach, about 5 raps to each bolt were enough to have the axle/hub come loose and slide out. It needs to be removed carefully, as it's pretty long and a little heavy.

3. After the u-joints were replaced, the whole thing slid together (with anti-sieze) without incident and I used the new mounting bolts as the originals did get mashed.

Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions, and if anyone wants to attempt this job in the future and you read this post and have some questions - feel free to email me directly at [email protected] and we can discuss.

 

[andyr354]

I don't remove the axle from the hub when I do it either, don't thave to worry about the torque on the hub nut that way. You were lucky with it coming out so easy, had to beat on mine for a long time the first time I did them.

 

[Neil]

My question is: There are no snap rings, how in the heck do you get the joint out. Is there no retainer? I am looking at getting the 297'S(junkyard) for mine and before I put them in service I would like to replace the joint's

 

[andyr354]

There are retaining clips on the inside edges of the ujoint caps. They fit into a grove and are just c-clips, not snap rings.
Look at it closely and you will see what I mean. The open end of them is where you don't notice it. Take a screw driver and they pry right out.

 

[ChiXJeff]

My question is: There are no snap rings, how in the heck do you get the joint out. Is there no retainer? I am looking at getting the 297'S(junkyard) for mine and before I put them in service I would like to replace the joint's

Yes, there ARE snaprings/circlips. They're on the inside of the yoke, near the bearing cap seal. You need a pick or a small flat blade screwdriver to get them off.

If you don't have circlips, they're either broken or someone never put them in. In either case, you're lucky you haven't lost a bearing cap.

ChiXJeff