This.i have lengthened and shortened both my driveshafts my self. its not all that hard. just grind the welds down to the yoke, knock the yokes out, knock them in the new tube and align the ears (phase them) tack it together, put it in and raise the wheels so you can spin it. set up a dial indicator and check the run out. as long as your under .020" run out you will be alright, but try to aim for .010-.015". check it on both ends, and the middle.
Durango front drive shaft with 2.25 x .25" wall tube for an indestructible double cardon drive shaft. Or atleast much stronger than using a stock cherokee front.
how do you measure your run out?
Get a dail indicator on an arm with a magnetic base. Clean the shaft really well. Stick the magnet to the underside of the floor near the shaft. Move the indicator over to the shaft. Place the needle on the shaft so it's close to the middle of the indicator range. Spin the shaft by hand while watching the needle. Find the highest reading and the lowest reading. The difference between the two is your run out. You want no more than .015" of run out.
Run is how "out of round" your shaft is.
I hope that makes sense. lol
okay i am dumb founded how would i get that to my xj when its a slip yoke and i think those bolt on the back of the transfer case???? wait i think it just hit me could i use my slip yoke on the end of the durango drive shaft or would it be to long ???Not sure what year, but cmelo gave me the Durango driveshaft to use for my rear MJ driveshaft.
The double cardan and tubing itself is identical to an XJ, however the stub itself is much beefier. The yoke on the slip is a little less beefy, but overall it seems like an upgrade to me. The stub diameter is ~.250" larger, with much finer splines though it is not greasable. XJ stubs are coarse splined.
XJ top, Durango bottom.
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