drive shaft q's

[PRjeeper]

i just swapped in a full width 9", geared it to 4.10 and welded it up.
i i mocked up the axle so its not fully installed yet. my stock drive shaft is only hangin on by about an inch. I plan to keep this shaft for the time being because the funds wont allow a sye. here's my plan and tell me what you think.
i want to move the centering pin holes on the perches back by an inch or so to push the axle forward. obviously ill need to move the holes on the spring plate the same amount. does anyone see any problems in doing this? i do have an overload leaf, so there is plenty of flat area at the bottom of the spring pack.
(before pulling the dana 35 out i tried to blow it up with one wheel on the dirt and one on the street. i'm running 33" boggers and i could only manage to snap the u joint. kind of a disappointing outcome because i ran the axle short of oil for over year. i was waiting for it to blow. not impressed.)

 

[shmoken875]

just make sure your tires don't get into the front of the wheel wells, may screw with your shock set up too. You could just do a hack and tap; I have a hack and tap with an xj front drive shaft and its about as long as it goes. I've been wheeling for about 6 months now with this set up and have had no problems at full droop.

Also, I was talking to a buddy last night and he snagged a beefy shaft off a older bronco, bolted the np208 yoke onto his np231 hack and tap style, and just used a 1330-1310 conversion joint for his rear 44. He said its cheap, plenty long, and strong. I think it has a boot on it too.

 

[PRjeeper]

thanks for the reply.
if the wheels come too close to the wells, i'm gonna get out the zip cut.
i dont want to mess too much with the drive shaft because i plan to double the case at some point soon and i dont want to sink any money into a drive shaft when i'm going to need to replace it when i do the doubler and sye. i've got the perches and spring plates drilled tonight and all together i've set the rear axle forward 1.5 inches. this will hopefully correct all of my problems with the d-shaft being pulled too far out of the t-case.

 

[Shorty]

when you mocked up the axle, did you have it at full droop for your measurements? The shaft would engage the transfer case output shaft more at ride height if that's the case. One inch at full droop, although not ideal, would probably get you a couple weeks of DD to pick up a SYE and shaft.