Drill track bar bracket or install new track bar?

[Scrubber3]

Recently I installed a 3.5 inch lift and 33 13.50 15 on steel pro comps on my 01 XJ. When I did the lift, I swapped the D35 for a Chrysler 8.25 with traclock. Upon test driving it, there were some noticeable vibrations when accelerating. Decided a transfer case drop was in order since I don't have the time or money for an SYE just yet. The transfer case dropped did the trick. Figured while I was at it I'll go ahead and adjust the steering stops and install extended sway bar end links. Next I need to get an alignment, but before that I was wondering if I should do anything with the track bar. Drill out the lower bracket towards the driver's side about 3/4 of an inch or just get a new track bar that is longer? I'd like to just leave as is and go get an alignment, but id hate for it to dog walk after the alignment and just end up having to do something anyway and wasting the money. I'm sure someone here has been in this position before. And help would be appreciated. Here is a picture. Or two

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

I'd go for the new trackbar instead of drilling 100% of the time.

 

[Scrubber3]

I'd go for the new trackbar instead of drilling 100% of the time.

Thanks for thr response! Mind if I ask why?

 

[RCP Phx]

For the same reason I've got a trackbar relocation bracket that I've given out for the last 20yrs. It always comes back after people figure out that it's just a bad idea!

 

[XJEEPER]

Why?

If relocation of the lower trackbar mounting hole was a good solution, there would not be a market for new HD trackbars, which correct geometry and add strength.

Get a trackbar/frame bracket combo which will eliminate the single shear factory-type mounting at the frame end and one with greasable/rebuildable joints preferred. SFR, JKS, RE, Ironman, TNT, Clayton etc. all offer good solutions.

 

[Scrubber3]

I've heard the track bar relocation bracket was a bad idea...

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Why?

If relocation of the lower trackbar mounting hole was a good solution, there would not be a market for new HD trackbars, which correct geometry and add strength.

Get a trackbar/frame bracket combo which will eliminate the single shear factory-type mounting at the frame end and one with greasable/rebuildable joints preferred. SFR, JKS, RE, Ironman, TNT, Clayton etc. all offer good solutions.

This is why.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

I've heard the track bar relocation bracket was a bad idea...

What relocation bracket are you referring to?

Get a new bracket on the top side to change it to double shear. Use the existing hole on the axle side.

The only reason to relocate the trackbar on the axle side is because you're switching to high steer and need to match your new steering geometry.

 

[Scrubber3]

Gotcha. Thanks guys!

 

[Scrubber3]

New adjustable track bar and control arms ordered! Should have them installed by the end of the month! Thanks for the advice to all involved

 

[Weasel]

New trackbar, cause then you can upgrade that stupid 1/4" bolt on the axle side to something with more clamping force. No it's not a 1/4" but it might as well be as small as it is. I think I did a 1/2 bolt and new nuts on a flag washer for the backside.