Dream front suspension

[chaser9478]

Here's the deal, I have a 5.5 in RE long arm kit. I want get away from the radius arms. Before I go through the trouble to replace a functioning rig I want to be sure that it will be an improvement. I have been eyeing the poly kit and the full traction set up. I would like to re use the crossmember from the RE kit and make a hybrid. What would you guys suggest to make the best 4 link for 5.5in of lift? I want it to go fast, crawl and be capable of making road trips. I want to see what's out there and get an idea of what would serve me the best. Is there anyway to get rid of the trac bar? Please share your input and ideas. Thanks

 

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

What's wrong with the radius arms?

 

[tone]

I run the RE long arm kit with deaver springs and have no complaints! Why do you want to switch?

 

[chaser9478]

I don't have my heart set on changing it. I want to tweak modify or replace it to get the best possible performance I can with out coilovers. So please shed some knowledge on me.

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

I don't have my heart set on changing it. I want to tweak modify or replace it to get the best possible performance I can with out coilovers. So please shed some knowledge on me.

by the time you've spent the money changing everything up you might as well have gone coil overs, once you've "invested" (read sunk money you'll never get back) into a long arm setup you're not going to find spending money on another coil sprung setup will find you noticeably better results.

 

[Cache96]

Long arm setup with springs of your choice and triple bypasses.......

 

[chaser9478]

I haven't had to many problems out of the radius arms. I am switching from a trail rig to a fast mover though. Eventually it probably will have coilovers I just want to have the best links possible to get the most out of whatever I use. I am going to have to replace the joints and what not anyway. Does anyone have any tricks to get the most out of a radius arm setup? I also wonder why radius arm setups aren't used that much in the go fast crowd.

On another note I have fox 2.0 res shocks can I have bypasses added to them? What kind of mods can be done to these shocks?

 

[chaser9478]

Matter of fact I have the whole thing pulled apart now. I am putting the shocks thru the floor and trying to reinforce everything. What tips and tricks can you give me? I want to get the max travel out of everything and I want to brace and gusset everything I can. So anything you can share is welcome. I am getting pics together so bare with me.

 

[chaser9478]

I am a disabled veteran with brain damage, PTSD and several physical injuries. I have a severly limited income and many odds stacked against me. This jeep is therauputic to me it represents my recovery. I want to build it to tour the country and maybe do something big like the Pan American Highway. I want it to be tough, reliable and excell in all terrains. I know the XJ may not be the perfect platform but I like it and its mine. This is my second XJ. The first was rearended and totalled by an uninsured driver, leaving my wife and injured with 2000 dollars. Sorry for the off topic rant but I just wanted to explain the importance of my rig. I really enjoy being able to fix it and make it strong, like I used to be.

 

[xcm]

you COULD add airbumps.

if you converted the RE bellypan, to a full four link, you have to make 2 upper mounts... not so easy, if i had the coin, i'd start with the 4-link crossmember.

you in theory could have fox add-on bypass tubes for you... but it'll be expensive! unless you are 110% into your suspension, and designing your travel sectors and all, dont bother. and if you are that into your suspension, you could just start off with an offtheshelf bypass layout... 2.0's are cool, but theyre tiny.

whats the budget like? motivation levels full? the good stuff aint cheap, and it aint easy either.

heres what we did to the front of one of the comanche's in our crew, http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016379

 

[DieselSJ]

Keep in mind that the radius arms work very well in a racing application, as does our RE short arm setup. The control is in the shock/spring combo. IMHO you won't notice any difference with a 4-link over the radius arm setup. Keep what you have and invest in a GOOD set of shocks.

Getting rid of the track bar requires HUGE amounts of fab work and totally custom steering. Sure it can be done, but how far do you want to go?

 

[92xjunk]

The only way to get rid of your track bar with a link type suspensions would be to go to a full hydro steering setup. Not really a good idea if you want to go fast.

 

[Prosonic]

The only way to get rid of your track bar with a link type suspensions would be to go to a full hydro steering setup. Not really a good idea if you want to go fast.

What?



1. When you go full hydro, you get rid of the need for a DRAGLINK, not a track bar. Big difference.

2. Full hydro works fine at speed. Ever check out a KOH car? Most of them are running full hydro, and hit speeds in excess of 70 mph.

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

What?



1. When you go full hydro, you get rid of the need for a DRAGLINK, not a track bar. Big difference.

2. Full hydro works fine at speed. Ever check out a KOH car? Most of them are running full hydro, and hit speeds in excess of 70 mph.

if you have a triangulated 4 link you don't need a track bar, that's why this was brought up.

 

[DieselSJ]

The only way to get rid of your track bar with a link type suspensions would be to go to a full hydro steering setup. Not really a good idea if you want to go fast.

Not true. There are several mechanical variations that are racing out in the desert with great success. Personally I don't like full hydro because of the lack of feedback.