Does running a 60 front/9" rear make sense?

[xj bmx]

So I've been planning on building a 44/9 set for my Cherokee and by planning meaning I have a set and the 9" is completely rebuilt and done, I just need to order some shafts. The 44 is just stripped down at the moment with no money into it yet other than I sandblasted and powder coated the drivers knuckle.

My plans were to basically build them as gnarly as possible to handle 37s and to keep the weight down as much as I could. But the longer these are taking to finis the more I'm starting to question the reality of that and what I want to use it for. It may be because I've been spending too much time on pirate and seeing rigs with semi float rears snapping at the flange, and 44s with blown shafts taking out lockers (in was planning on going with RCVs) and this happening on 33s and 35s. But i like to think these are the guys that just point and bounce the revlimiter in rock gardens, where as I'm the type to plan my lines very carefully and mosey my way up.:blah:

The plan for the Jeep is to be able to drive it to what ever trails I want and back, whether its out to Moab or just the local trails and rocks. Making it OK on the road is simple (well you know kinda) but the hard part for me is the off road abuse. So far I've only wheeled it about 10 times locally on mucky trails and rock gardens within the last 6 or 7 (sheesh) and that was on stock axles (30/8.25) with an welded diff, and 31s and the only problems I've had was two alternators and a water filled diff. So I can't really get a good feel of how things would go on 37s and on trails I've never been.


Any way, so I was thinking of just selling what I got, giving up the dream of an anorexic Jeep with good diff clearance and going with 60s or 60/14b and just drag them over everything.

OR, keep the 9" in the rear and build up a 60 in the front? I did find one thread that a dude mentioned it would be a good combo since you can steer the low hanging 60f and with the higher 9" you won't have to worry about it as much?

Sorry about the long winded life story, its just been on my mind the last month, and I've exhausted my brain.:wow:

 

[Boostwerks.com]

While everyone and their mom has a different opinion on this subject, personally I would finish the 44 on the cheap and throw them both in. They are more than capable of handling a 37. Especially if you live in the real world with a budget.

 

[zukgod1]

You can get chromo shafts for the 44, get some CTM's and drive it.
The U-Joint is what fails most every time then sends the shock waves through the shaft killing the diff/locker.

I've had a 30 with a Super 30 kit (and CTM's) in my XJ for over 6 years running 37's.
Works great as long as you drive like you say you do. That's why mine is still alive.
Also in running a 8.8 with Yukon axles on the rear just a fyi.

 

[zachandandy]

I still argue go with the 60. The stock 60 is stronger and cheaper than a built 44 with ctm's or rcv shafts. I run a 44 on 35's and have broken shafts. The Yukon chromos alone would have paid the difference in buying a 60 vs buying the 44. Build it once and don't worry about it.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I have to agree with Zach, and there are several other people that will say the same. You can do the "shave kit" I think that is what it's called, as far as cutting out the bottom section of the diff and welding a flat piece in place. That will definitely help. But even if you drag it over a rock to get there and NOT break anything. Then you're good to go.
Learning from other people's mistakes will help you. So, sell the D44 and get a 60. Since you already have the 9 decently built keep it for meow. You can always run a high9 3rd member or whatever. But I think even a 9 up front would be better than a D44.

 

[XJLI]

i have silly money into my front 44. i plan on running 37s on it eventually. if i had to do it again i would have built smaller axles and limited myself to 35s. (on 35s now).

 

[Explorer 1]

I'm running a 9" up front and a 60 in the rear, but I guess that isn't what your asking. Running anything larger than a 44 in the front can have its own space problems which can require some additional mods if you don't want to lift the front high and limit your upward travel.

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1

 

[sunburned]

I still argue go with the 60. The stock 60 is stronger and cheaper than a built 44 with ctm's or rcv shafts. I run a 44 on 35's and have broken shafts. The Yukon chromos alone would have paid the difference in buying a 60 vs buying the 44. Build it once and don't worry about it.

Seeing how many people run 37's on a TJ Rubi 44 with aftermarket shafts or RCV's, I'd definitely do it with a 1/2 ton D44. I'd say if he already has one, just throw some RCV's in there and call it a day. Haven't seen any stories of people blowing up RCV's in a 44 on 37's, even though everyone likes to say they'll break. I have heard from a lot of friends that u-joints don't live long in 44's, so I'd go to a 60 before running any kind of u-joint 44.

if i had to do it again i would have built smaller axles and limited myself to 35s. (on 35s now).

I'll agree here, even though the OP already has bigger axles. I have a blast wheeling the crap out of my XJ on D30/8.25 and 35s. I have a bunch of money in the axles, but I built them over a few years and they have been holding up great at this point.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

I like the idea of a 60 front and a 9" rear for my own rig. only problem I'm seeing is matching the lug pattern. have you put any thought into that yet? 5x5.5 conversion kit for the 60 is stupid pricey. no one can make 8 lug shafts for the 9". I'm thinking 1 ton spindles and other goodies to make the 9" a full floater.

I'd love to see a 60/9 setup. over time you can make the 9" into 35 spline and put that 60 on a diet with aftermarket knuckles, spool, and other light weight components

 

[foxwar71]

I'm thinking 1 ton spindles and other goodies to make the 9" a full floater.

This.

I'm not really a fan of semi floater anymore, I love my full floaters now!! Since he needs shafts anyways, just chop the ends off the 9 and order some double splined ones. Pick up a cheap 14b or something OR get some spindle flanges from RuffStuff. Then you can run matching front 60 outers, have the same brakes/bearings/spindles at all corners.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

This.

I'm not really a fan of semi floater anymore, I love my full floaters now!! Since he needs shafts anyways, just chop the ends off the 9 and order some double splined ones. Pick up a cheap 14b or something OR get some spindle flanges from RuffStuff. Then you can run matching front 60 outers, have the same brakes/bearings/spindles at all corners.

how much would this widen the 9"? another thing I worry about in this setup is front width. I'd like to chop a front 60 down to about 66". btw have you had any problems with your narrowed 60 or running a custom shaft on one side yet?

 

[foxwar71]

how much would this widen the 9"? another thing I worry about in this setup is front width. I'd like to chop a front 60 down to about 66". btw have you had any problems with your narrowed 60 or running a custom shaft on one side yet?

:dunno: chop it until it fits!!!


Mines doin good, no big issues yet. I did pop an 806 playing on my rockpile, broke a ear and spit some caps on the passenger side. Pulled the custom inner shaft, everything looked fine. I'm running Ten Factory shafts.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Seeing how many people run 37's on a TJ Rubi 44 with aftermarket shafts or RCV's, I'd definitely do it with a 1/2 ton D44. I'd say if he already has one, just throw some RCV's in there and call it a day. Haven't seen any stories of people blowing up RCV's in a 44 on 37's, even though everyone likes to say they'll break. I have heard from a lot of friends that u-joints don't live long in 44's, so I'd go to a 60 before running any kind of u-joint 44.



I'll agree here, even though the OP already has bigger axles. I have a blast wheeling the crap out of my XJ on D30/8.25 and 35s. I have a bunch of money in the axles, but I built them over a few years and they have been holding up great at this point.

This makes your R&P the weak link. I would rather replace axle shafts on the trail than this.
Ask Vanimal about this. He got rid of his 44 and he was only on 35's at the time I believe.

 

[xj bmx]

Wow, thanks guys. There is a lot of options I haven't thought of.

As far as matching the front 60 lugs I work in a full machine shop, so I could just give the lathe guys the hubs to get taken care of.

As Explorer mentioned space was sort of one of the issues that led me to go with the 44/9 I was worried that it wouldent fit with my plans for about 4-5" lift.

Since a lot of you (and guys on GL4x4) said a 60/9 would be a decent idea, I'm curious about the odd weight distribution. Thinking about it with a pretty light rear half of the rig, then a 60 front, the motor, winch and bumper up front do you think that would cause any odd handling issues? I'm sure it would be nice for crazy hill climbs and such though.

Right now the rear build is a 79 or 80 housing, and non N 3rd, 31spline full spool with 5.13 gears, Ruff stuff disk brake swap kit, and pinion guard, and .250" plat welded to the bottom of the housing with plans of shaving and truss.

The reason I went with the 31spline was for the ability to get parts anywhere if needed. I was trying to build with ease of maintenance and part availability. Custom shafts and what not WERE out of the question. Now I'm thinking more of build it, so I wont need to find a replacement.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

I've worried about odd weight distribution too. But axles are unsprung weight and when slow crawling, I don't see it being a big issue. But I could be wrong. Maybe going down a really steep hill it could be a problem

 

[sunburned]

This makes your R&P the weak link. I would rather replace axle shafts on the trail than this.
Ask Vanimal about this. He got rid of his 44 and he was only on 35's at the time I believe.

Oh, I understand. I've pulled a ring gear out of my D30 at a campsite so I could drive home the next day (probably from shoddy gear setup by a local guy a few days before).

That being said, I don't think I've ever heard of someone breaking a 1/2 ton D44 ring gear, at least not on 37s. Throw a Jana 54 kit in there if you want insurance. I'm just thinking of lighter parts and more clearance under the diff. The smallest axle you can run, the better. Just make it as strong as you can.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I would listen to the advice from all the guys that built a 44 then had to go to a 60 after blowing it up shortly thereafter.

and then listen to the advice from the guys that run 37s on 44 for 6-9 years and never break.

then youll be confused for a bit.

then deep down youll know the ford hp60 is really the way to go.

but youll still end up building the 44 since you already bought everything for it and it seems easier and cheaper to build (no narrowing, no shaving, etc etc) , and might as well see how long it lasts.

 

[XJLI]

I would listen to the advice from all the guys that built a 44 then had to go to a 60 after blowing it up shortly thereafter.

and then listen to the advice from the guys that run 37s on 44 for 6-9 years and never break.

then youll be confused for a bit.

then deep down youll know the ford hp60 is really the way to go.

but youll still end up building the 44 since you already bought everything for it and it seems easier and cheaper to build (no narrowing, no shaving, etc etc) , and might as well see how long it lasts.

Get out of my head

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Get out of my head

im going through the same predicament. sick of breaking the 30. building a 44 since itll be a short turn around time im 3 linking it, trussing it, new belly pan, all at the same time. should make a future 60 swap much easier. Hopefully the 44 lasts at least a year...

 

[xj bmx]

I would listen to the advice from all the guys that built a 44 then had to go to a 60 after blowing it up shortly thereafter.

and then listen to the advice from the guys that run 37s on 44 for 6-9 years and never break.

then youll be confused for a bit.

then deep down youll know the ford hp60 is really the way to go.

but youll still end up building the 44 since you already bought everything for it and it seems easier and cheaper to build (no narrowing, no shaving, etc etc) , and might as well see how long it lasts.

Hahaha, I hate you.

Though the 44 is a Ford hp44 out of a 74 with 1/2" tubes. And I am planning on full width anyway and I have no real money into it, so no matter what it will be the same amount of work to go in the rig.

Originally I was going to go to 60s but the one big thing other than weight and clearance was getting it to fit, I've seen a few guys run the later 60s with the super short drivers side tube, so the diff would clear theboil pan. But Then had ran in to issues with room for links and coils, some just went to coil overs, but that's more than I feel I'd need. And obviously the opposite for the older 60s that have the room for links, they end up having to lift sky high to make room for the pan.

At that point I said screw it, I'll just blow a bunch of money on a bling 44 ans save me the time and headache(so I thought). But now since its been down so long I kinda dgaf how long it takes but the hugeness and weight is what started my downward spiral of an all together build block.:dohalong with saving for tires and wheels)

At the moment my thoughts are get a set cheep steelies and tires and to run the 9" on the stock shafts, toss the 44 together as booty as possible, reuse all of the parts and bolts it has had since 74 and no aftermarket and go try to kill it on the local rock piles. And I guess go from there? :wow:

Hmm in can get some Axle tech axles out of an MRAP sort of cheep.:dunce: