DO YOU THINK 37S ARE TO BIG??

This isn't PBB.

I'm deleting a couple of posts here, and both of you go crack a beer and cool off for a while.
 
ok how bout this? if i put on 37s and got the perfect backspace wheel to give me a bit of a wider stance should i get a little more stability on off camber situations? not a big fan of wheelspacers so i would rather buy new wheels. Let me know????
 
Tintr said:
ok how bout this? if i put on 37s and got the perfect backspace wheel to give me a bit of a wider stance should i get a little more stability on off camber situations? not a big fan of wheelspacers so i would rather buy new wheels. Let me know????

No, going taller will not making you more stable on off camber situations. Bigger rubber is more sidewall flex and will hurt, not help.

Wider stance with the same wheels may help a hair, but for the most part trimming and going lower helps with off camber. ;)
 
cal said:
This isn't PBB.

I'm deleting a couple of posts here, and both of you go crack a beer and cool off for a while.

Waaaay ahead of ya.
 
Tintr said:
dont want to upgrade gears, axles, and everything else anymore. want to do it right and leave it so thats why im asking.

This is the key. Leave it on 35's and it's done, you're bulletproof. Upgrade to 37's and it'll probably be OK but there'll be that what if in the back of your mind that causes us all to keep spending money on bigger axles, gears, etc. I'm going to 37's next year but I'll be upgrading axles and gears and doing custom bodywork to fit the tires along with it.
 
missed a few there Cal.I don't know if you can edit the post itself to get rid of quotes but if you can it will help in get this back on topic.
 
Yeah I'm going back looking at them but I'm multi tasking and its going slow. :)
 
You're in the PNW and you have marginal components for tires larger than 35". I would think you would leave it alone since you only pick up 1" of ground clearance but at the risk of considerable cost due to breakage because the amount of lever that you add going bigger on the tires.

You've reached a point where going bigger needs to be part of a real plan and not based on what you or others think the rig should "look" like. It's more important now to have it "work" right as the changes you want will be risky without spending the money on the right components.

And in the end, no one that knows Jeeps is going to care if you're on 37's. One of our guys on the PNWJeep.com board actually just went from 37s to 35s just because of the way it worked and the real D44s he had were working hard with the bigger tires.
 
Check this out and ask Jason some questions.

http://www.pnwjeep.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9501

He's running full width Waggy D44s, proper gearing and a solid 4.0 and auto. He just didn't like it and it didn't pull well and seemed under geared and under powered. The decision to go back to 35s was tough but made all the difference and will likely reduce his previous breakage issues.
 
I still haven't found a trail in the Northwest that you can't do on 33's, with the exception of some super-optional lines or rock-crawling (think Crushers at TSF, Funny Rocks at Naches, etc), which it sounds like you don't do. If you're just doing it to look taller, I don't know what to tell you.

If you want 37's, get a new front axle and give it a try, but as has been mentioned I'd think about 5.13's or 5.38's, if not a 4:1 kit/Atlas, etc. If your rig doesn't get stuck all the time, why mess with what works? FWIW, I've blown up my HP D44 four times running 34's.

Another question that hasn't really been addressed is what kind of tires you want to run. IMHO this will make as much of a difference as what size they are. It never ceases to amaze me what you can accomplish with good tires and finesse.
Stumpalump said:
I put a ruby 44 front and exploder 8.8 in the rear and run 35's. I can kick my self for not running full width and 37's. Absolutly no comparison on what one that is wide and on crappy 37's will do even compaired to my decent setup and great tires. Go big if you use it off road.
You're an idiot. Learn how to drive.

-----Matt-----
 
Seems pretty established that 35"s are the ideal max size for NW wheeling. The step up to 37"s, 38"s, and up would IMO require a lot of other upgrades (and $) to make it work right. One of the best points about the XJ platform is the ability to make it work well without a ton of swapping and custom work. If you really enjoy that kind of thing, then make it happen. From a strictly practical standpoint, 33"s-35"s are the perfect range for a built XJ, IMO.
 
37's are too small... You've gotta go to at least 38's: :guitar:


XJ_and_JohnDeere_1_7_08076.jpg




XJ_and_JohnDeere_1_7_08017.jpg




XJ_and_JohnDeere_1_7_08003.jpg



(38 x 15.50 r16.5 Ground Hawgs on 16.5 x 9.75 Monster Rims - 5 on 5.5 pattern)

... and for all the web-wheelers & hard-core Pirate boys, this sucker's sit'n on stock D30/35 axles w/ ONLY a 3" susp lift and 2" spidertrax wheel adapters!!! Yeah, no chromoly's, D44's, full-widths, or other fancy stuff needed! Of course this isn't a rockcrawler either, but for riding muddy trails & sandy creeks... small lift & GREAT flotation + moderate acceleration = NO breakage!

I know in the Online 4x4 World... this truck's Taboo! Aint no way it could possibly hold up? Well, it does. I don't want to jinx it, but been using it as a hunting truck for a while & has yet to break anything! I mostly built it this way as a joke... was gonna run the stock axles til they snapped then swap to 3/4 gear, but jokes on me I guess, stubborn old goats won't die!

I'm sure some folks will say this is B.S., but its not... just thought I'd show what's possible for anybody out there on a budget that can't afford fancy beef. Just take it easy on the skinny pedal & the stock gear will hold up.

:party:
 
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