DO I NEED A SYE FOR 1 MORE INCH

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My XJ came with a 3" RC lift. The RC lift brougt the rear end up with an add leaf and the front with new lower control arms. springs and shocks. I put 31" AT tires on it. The rear end has a shim but I'm not sure how many degrees. I removed the rear sway bar. It rides fine. The only time I get any vibrations is at speeds over 70 which are minimal and I'm sure are normal. It tracks fine at those speeds also.

I'm trying to get higher on the cheap. I'm not too worried about articulation or tire rub because where I live there is NO landscape. Mud and DEEP water on the roads are what I contend with the entire rainy season. It's not a DD but I need it streetable.

Can I use a 1" lift shakle and 1" coil spring spacer to get another 1" of lift WIHOUT a SYE, which defeats the "on the cheap"? How many degrees is it safe to shim the rear end or is recommended?

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Stock tires size on most = 27" so 31" tires get me to about +4"
RC 3" lift = +3"
+ or - 7" so far???

96 Country, HO w/0630 head, AW4, NP231, D30 front, C8.25

 

[clean4drxj]

sye why is always a good option..

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

you should be alright.

but if you have vibes, you can add a Tcase drop. its a band aid, but does work... i ran one for the longest time.

 

[bugout]

you should be alright.

but if you have vibes, you can add a Tcase drop. its a band aid, but does work... i ran one for the longest time.

Thanks, that's what I was looking for!!! What about my lift estimate???

 

[doublexl]

Re: Re: DO I NEED A SYE FOR 1 MORE INCH

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Stock tires size on most = 27" so 31" tires get me to about +4"
RC 3" lift = +3"
+ or - 7" so far???

96 Country, HO w/0630 head, AW4, NP231, D30 front, C8.25

Well if your stock tires are 27" and your new tires are 31", that's only 2" taller for the vehicle, because it only lifts from the centerline of the wheel down, anything above that doesn't matter.

 

[supertubesocks]

Re: Re: DO I NEED A SYE FOR 1 MORE INCH

Well if your stock tires are 27" and your new tires are 31", that's only 2" taller for the vehicle, because it only lifts from the centerline of the wheel down, anything above that doesn't matter.

Your also assuming that 31 inch tires are actually 31" tall, which they aren't. Lol.

 

[doublexl]

Your also assuming that 31 inch tires are actually 31" tall, which they aren't. Lol.

he said they were 31" tall, could be a metric size equal to 31".. but yes, 31x10.50s are usually only 30.5" tall

 

[bugout]

Well if your stock tires are 27" and your new tires are 31", that's only 2" taller for the vehicle, because it only lifts from the centerline of the wheel down, anything above that doesn't matter.

I never thought about it like that....Im a dumbass!!!!

he said they were 31" tall, could be a metric size equal to 31".. but yes, 31x10.50s are usually only 30.5" tall

I had a bad expierence with an ex-girlfriend, copious amounts of alcohol and a tape measure. Ive never touched a tape measure since....thats why I haven't measured my tires:anon:


Anybody else have any input about that extra inch I was looking for???:roflmao:

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Anybody else have any input about that extra inch I was looking for???:roflmao:

why do you need the extra lift if the landscape is flat? your only as tall as your diffs... which is going to be the same regardless of lift. the lower lift height will handle and ride better on the street.

 

[bugout]

why do you need the extra lift if the landscape is flat? your only as tall as your diffs... which is going to be the same regardless of lift. the lower lift height will handle and ride better on the street.

I just want as much of my body out of the water as I can get. I've already extended all of my vent hoses. Like I said, its not a dd, just needs to be streetable.

 

[westvirginia24976]

why do you need the extra lift if the landscape is flat?

Have you seen them sinkholes? Seriously though there are a lot of swampy, nasty holes.

 

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Have you seen them sinkholes? Seriously though there are a lot of swampy, nasty holes.

THANK YOU!!!

 

[DaveXJCO]

I just did an sye while building up my jeep. To he honest. It was a great way to spend 500 on my jeep. The shaft conversion is simple. A 231 is not hard to pull down for this swap. After you install the t case. Get your measurement and call them up. I got my driveshaft in 5 days from tom woods. It tough, and I can go 80 and I don't have a single vibration. The shaft is thick wall which is awesome for rocks. I know people are on a budget, but its 500 bucks. You can't beat how much of a difference it makes. I hear people say the don't get vibes. I work at a 4x4 shop and every single xj I lift vibrates without an sye. I just did a 3.5 and it vibrates. I always dial in the pinion angle. The first u joint at the slip always vibrates. And the vibes are no good for you t case bearings at highway speeds.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Have you seen them sinkholes? Seriously though there are a lot of swampy, nasty holes.

i mean... ya, any woman will tell you an inch or two makes a difference. but ive never seen anyone up to their hood in mud and water exclaiming, "damnit! if i only i had another inch!"

just to be clear... im at ~5" of lift with 35s. im happy with it on and offroad. but if i could get it lower and still keep my compression/up travel i would. spending money on extra lift just because of high water isnt something i would do. everything in me tells me to avoid high water, especially moving water. and in Fl? salt? ya... not good. but the OPs question was answered. and hes going to do what he wants to anyway. also, FWIW, i spent ~$100 on a hack and tap setup, even that was a night and day difference.

 

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i mean... ya, any woman will tell you an inch or two makes a difference. but ive never seen anyone up to their hood in mud and water exclaiming, "damnit! if i only i had another inch!"



just to be clear... im at ~5" of lift with 35s. im happy with it on and offroad. but if i could get it lower and still keep my compression/up travel i would. spending money on extra lift just because of high water isnt something i would do. everything in me tells me to avoid high water, especially moving water. and in Fl? salt? ya... not good. but the OPs question was answered. and hes going to do what he wants to anyway. also, FWIW, i spent ~$100 on a hack and tap setup, even that was a night and day difference.

First, non of the water moves down here, everything is stagnant. Only half of the canals actually hold salt water and they never over flow. The floods come from the already saturated ground and our shallow water table not being able to soak up the torrential down pours during the rainy season. The water dried up after a day but it starts all over again in the afternoon. It does this for 6 months. Saltwater fishing is HUGE down here. After seeing trucks that look like theyve shortend the bed but upon closer inspection you see that the rear 2 feet of the truck has rusted away from going to far down the boat ramp or just not washing their truck and boat after a day on the water. I don't mind spending the $100 dollars on a hack and tap, its the additional $200-300 for a new driveshaft.

I just did an sye while building up my jeep. To he honest. It was a great way to spend 500 on my jeep. The shaft conversion is simple. A 231 is not hard to pull down for this swap. After you install the t case. Get your measurement and call them up. I got my driveshaft in 5 days from tom woods. It tough, and I can go 80 and I don't have a single vibration. The shaft is thick wall which is awesome for rocks. I know people are on a budget, but its 500 bucks. You can't beat how much of a difference it makes. I hear people say the don't get vibes. I work at a 4x4 shop and every single xj I lift vibrates without an sye. I just did a 3.5 and it vibrates. I always dial in the pinion angle. The first u joint at the slip always vibrates. And the vibes are no good for you t case bearings at highway speeds.

Thanks for the input, maybe there is a slight vibration that I'm just thinking is normal because I rigs got 200K plus on the clock.

This far south, we don't need those bullet proof drive trains you rock crawlers need, unless your driving one of those super high powerd mudslingers. And most of the rigs down here would get laughed at by a legitmit rock crawler, because they tend to focus on getting high by whatever means necessary. Tires, body lifts, spring over axle, suspension lifts, you name it. They are so top heavy that they are barley safe on the street.

My plans in the future include a 6" long arm, 33-35" tires with plenty of backspacing, moving the rear axle a little further back, 4.88s in my 8.25 now that theyre available, maybe a welded rear since its not gonna spend that much time in the street.

This winter, I'm going to remove the entire drive train, both axles, suspension. Grinding down the underbody and applying a new HEAVY coat of undercoating. Then doing the same thing to the floor interior. Then applying some expandable marine foam to all the nooks and crannies that may hold water.

 

[jimk403]

Do you need a SYE at 3-4 inches? No. You don't need one at 5 inches either. When I got to 5" on my last XJ, I spent considerable time crawling around under it with a tape measure and angle finder. Figured out that if my driveshaft was .75" longer, everthing would be near stock angles. Removed the rear driveshaft, took it to the local driveline shop and they cut off the ends and welded in a .75" longer tube. Installed it and the Jeep gods smiled.
Just another way to address the issue that worked for me.

 

[bugout]

Do you need a SYE at 3-4 inches? No. You don't need one at 5 inches either. When I got to 5" on my last XJ, I spent considerable time crawling around under it with a tape measure and angle finder. Figured out that if my driveshaft was .75" longer, everthing would be near stock angles. Removed the rear driveshaft, took it to the local driveline shop and they cut off the ends and welded in a .75" longer tube. Installed it and the Jeep gods smiled.
Just another way to address the issue that worked for me.

Please tell me more? Why arent more people doing this? It sounds too good to me true. I have never know the ALL MIGHTY AND POWERFUL JEEPS OF GOD to be so kind. My expierence has been mostly fire and brimstone!!!:firedevil:flame:

 

[jimk403]

Well, sometimes I just can't afford the latest new fangled high speed wondermod of the moment. Looked at the longer slip yoke, but the ujoint angles were still pretty steep. The longer yoke would also put more stress on the tcase output bearing and seal, and did not want to replace them again. Looked to me as if the longer yoke could also be pushed to far into the tcase and cause issues. The other fix is a slip yoke eliminator. One of the benefits of the sye allows for a longer driveshaft. I figured that with the longer dtiveshaft, the ujoint angles would be less but the shaft didn't need the 'slip' built in. Adding .75" allowed the stock yoke to ride on the tcase output shaft in the same location as if there was no lift. Problem solved.

 

[bugout]

Well, sometimes I just can't afford the latest new fangled high speed wondermod of the moment. Looked at the longer slip yoke, but the ujoint angles were still pretty steep. The longer yoke would also put more stress on the tcase output bearing and seal, and did not want to replace them again. Looked to me as if the longer yoke could also be pushed to far into the tcase and cause issues. The other fix is a slip yoke eliminator. One of the benefits of the sye allows for a longer driveshaft. I figured that with the longer dtiveshaft, the ujoint angles would be less but the shaft didn't need the 'slip' built in. Adding .75" allowed the stock yoke to ride on the tcase output shaft in the same location as if there was no lift. Problem solved.

Is welding onto the driveshaft considered reliable or does it just depend on the welder? What about balancing? Is there a formula to come up with how much more or less tube you need????

 

[kastein]

Its mostly measure/ponder/measure/ponder. You do need it balanced after or you will have some sort of vibes.

Getting more slip yoke engagement will probably reduce the vibes a tad, but you can't go too far or it runs out of space to slip when the rearend moves or the pinion rises under throttle. Then you shatter the bearing seat in the rear output housing of the tcase, like I did once. Mine was due to tons of throttle, rocks, and no bumpstops in the back, but a too long driveshaft will do the same thing.

An SYE is the ideal fix, but if you don't mind a little vibration, just get used to replacing 9 dollar ujoints and make sure you aren't maxing out the angle on the ujoints. Torsional vibes will wear the drivetrain parts a bit faster but I have been living with them in my MJ for years now*.

when you go to longarms and 6", I would recommend it though. A traction bar might be a wise choice too.

* really extreme vibes (like, doing 103mph with the pedal on the floor for hours with a driveshaft with the ujoint yokes welded in 70 degrees out of phase and never balanced at all, felt like driving a massage chair) WILL do damage. I found small stress cracks in all the stiffening webs in the tailhousing/4x4 adapter housing of my transmission after that stunt. It is my spare now, so I hope to learn to TIG and grind/fill them all before I rebuild it sometime in the next year.