Diff housing stiffening and truss design

[Root Moose]

Update

Well, here's what I've ended up with. I didn't deviate from my original design... Please don't take that as me not considering what was posted here. I do value all the input. I have other considerations like "when the hell am I going to get this done if I get too carried away?".

Anyway,

Here are some pictures of the completed and primered truss:

​

Coincidentally, the "blinging" lightening hole nearest the differential is within 1/4" of the axle center line. If I could find a rugged enough fog light to stick in there and if the tire rod and drag link don't obscure it I'd like to mount a light there. Would be nice to get under the fog we get up here in the hills. I won't know where my drag link and tire rod will be yet since I'm doing the WJ knuckle conversion on this axle also.

Thanks all!

 

[Lucas]

don;t know if this was covered before, but did you pass the truss through the UCA mount? If not, in addition to the holes, it seems like a lot of word for not a whole lotta strength.

 

[XJ_ranger]

don;t know if this was covered before, but did you pass the truss through the UCA mount? If not, in addition to the holes, it seems like a lot of word for not a whole lotta strength.

as is everything that we do to our jeeps...

people gundrill axle shafts to save 2 lbs...

turn down ring gears for that extra 1/4" of clearance

 

[Root Moose]

don;t know if this was covered before, but did you pass the truss through the UCA mount? If not, in addition to the holes, it seems like a lot of word for not a whole lotta strength.

The holes were for visual interest (i.e. purely bling).

It would be easier said to pass the truss through the UCA mount than to actually do it, but then I'm the type that wants connections welded on both sides where possible.

It would be a lot easier to torch off the UCA mount and weld a new version on top of the truss. This is probably what some of the posters above were getting at. I may go that route when I build the HP 44 for the next Jeep.

The config shown here is much stronger than what was originally there. The torque load on the UCA is now reacted by the top of the truss instead of down at the axle tube so it is stronger. Also, deflections of the UCA mount relative to the tube should be a lot smaller so that hopefully will help with handling. I've got way too numb a butt to feel anything like that though.

The purpose of the truss was to stiffen the differential and long side of the axle more than beefing the UCA mount. It was easy to strnegthen the UCA mount with the little things I did so I figured "why not?".

This is all really overbuilt for what this particular Jeep is going to be used for anyway. It was just some easy mods to do while the housing was still bare.

It's all moot at the moment anyway since this housing is now fubar.

 

[xj9140]

Moose are you at all cucerned about oil pan clearnace? I'm asking because I made a similer truss on my turdy. But as it's still sitting in the shop (not under my jeep) I'm not sure if i'll have clearence issues. If so i'll just extend my bumpstops(hocky pucks) BTW i'm doing the wj conersion. I've disided to use 3/4 hiems on top of the knuckle for steering using taperd hien studs. Also, You should consider moving your trackbar bracket up higher (the same plain as were the draglink connects to the knuckle) to aviod any bumpsteer. I'm using a WJ track-bar as its much stronger (forged).

sorry bad grammer

 

[Root Moose]

To be honest I hadn't looked that closely at the clearance. I figured that between 5" of lift, bump stopping (trying to avoid cutting sheet metal - rust concerns) and having a look at the Mako truss it should be good. Now that I have to start from scratch on a new housing and am not as pushed for time as much I may take a closer look at that aspect as it had been bugging me.

I'm doing the WJ set up as well. I was going to bolt the axle under the Jeep with athe new lift an such before welding on the track bar stuff so that I can "nail" the parallel drag link and Panhard thing at that time. I'm sure I'll have to adjust it later as the new springs settle.

I was going to sandblast the new housing I picked up today but ended up chopping up a tree with the chain saw instead. I find any power tool therapeutic - especially if gas powered.

 

[Beej]

I find any power tool therapeutic - especially if gas powered.

Ain't that the truth. 'Specially when they're two-stroke...

Something about engines just calms me inside

 

[xj9140]

Fun, Mounted my '00 wrangler mirrir's today, but should have bean making my "oem WJ trackbar" adjustable. Not sur how i'm going to acomplish this as of yet. probably Cut it. I'm curios if its solid.. I have two of them. Where sould i make my cut? @ the frame end or axel end.

 

[sgtmack]

I would prefer the frame end. It keeps the adjuster out of the rocks as much as possible. And that's how I'm doing mine. So it must be the right way. :laugh3:

 

[Mr.OverKill]

i modded my oem track bar

i re-bent the old one and cut it then put a piece of tubing over the upper end and welded it and the 1" 16 threaded nutcert in to the tubing and fillet welded a 1"X6"X16 thread grade 8 bolt to the other piece of the origional track bar. works awsome and looks good too, my weak point is the upper ball joint.( will be building a better one when money or breakage alows )