DIFF FLUID??

[stewie]

my vent tubes are worn through at the axle level, so they are useless in my case.

its a quick and easy fix. take one of the old hoses in (rear is the easiest to get to) and get a quantity sufficient to work with your lift size and flex. hose and hose clamps are all you need. its also a good chance to raise the breather height.

 

[searchingforXJ]

I use either brake cleaner or electrical cleaner and rags that I throw away afterwards. As for lube, just normal 90w works fine, if you have a limited slip you will ant to add friction modifer, stinky stuff for sure..

I've read this in a few places. I take it the residue left behind doesn't break down the oil?

 

[iwannadie]

I've read this in a few places. I take it the residue left behind doesn't break down the oil?

Dont leave residue, dry it all out before installing it. I use blue shop paper towels, they are great for cleaning/drying stuff...

 

[searchingforXJ]

Dont leave residue, dry it all out before installing it. I use blue shop paper towels, they are great for cleaning/drying stuff...

There's no way you can get it all. Even when it dries out, there will be a dry residue left behind. The chemicals in brake cleaner don't just magically disappear no matter how good you are with rags/shop towels.

 

[iwannadie]

There's no way you can get it all. Even when it dries out, there will be a dry residue left behind. The chemicals in brake cleaner don't just magically disappear no matter how good you are with rags/shop towels.

Its not made of glue and going to stick to the metal. Let it dry a few minutes then wipe it back out. Brake cleaner dries and evaporates really fast. Ive never seen any dry residue left behind from brake cleaner. Last I checked brake cleaner is oil free, not sure what you think is being left behind.

 

[searchingforXJ]

Its not made of glue and going to stick to the metal. Let it dry a few minutes then wipe it back out. Brake cleaner dries and evaporates really fast. Ive never seen any dry residue left behind from brake cleaner. Last I checked brake cleaner is oil free, not sure what you think is being left behind.

My thinking was along the lines of water evaporating. The impurities in water don't evaporate with it so over time it leaves a scale. I assumed that the same would happen with brake cleaner. The alcohol would evaporate but the detergents would be left behind in a solid form, and would then mix with the new oil and start to break it down.

I guess that's not the case.

 

[92xjsp]

... The alcohol would evaporate but the detergents would be left behind in a solid form, and would then mix with the new oil and start to break it down.

I guess that's not the case.

The trick is that the alcohol IS the detergent.

Brake cleaner is intended to give you some cleaning power, not as good as detergent but better than just wiping, in a place where there can't be any residue left. Braking surfaces are one such place, hence the name.

Actually, they don't use alcohol, although you can probably use alcohol if you have it but don't have any brake cleaner handy (not like bacardi's, I mean like wood alcohol). A can of brake cleaner I have says it contains "Heptane, Toulene, Carbon Dioxide". Heptane and Toulene are highly flammable petroleum derivatives, presumably with better cleaning power than alcohol but still quick to evaporate completely. I guess the carbon dioxide is the propellant for the spray can?

 

[searchingforXJ]

The trick is that the alcohol IS the detergent.

Brake cleaner is intended to give you some cleaning power, not as good as detergent but better than just wiping, in a place where there can't be any residue left. Braking surfaces are one such place, hence the name.

Actually, they don't use alcohol, although you can probably use alcohol if you have it but don't have any brake cleaner handy (not like bacardi's, I mean like wood alcohol). A can of brake cleaner I have says it contains "Heptane, Toulene, Carbon Dioxide". Heptane and Toulene are highly flammable petroleum derivatives, presumably with better cleaning power than alcohol but still quick to evaporate completely. I guess the carbon dioxide is the propellant for the spray can?

That makes sense, thanks for explaining. The CO2 would be the propellant.

 

[birchlakeXJ]

I'm a big fan of using synthetic fluids. They don't break down as quickly as regular fluids and they are a superior lubricant IMHO. The cost difference isn't really that much, especially for fluids that stay in service a relatively long time like axles.

As mine is a daily driver and doesn't see water, (obviously more frequent changes necessary there) I use Amsoil synthetic 75/90 and run it to around 45k. Yes, that is longer than the recommended 30k which you often see but my feeling (and the mfg) is that using the synthetics allows a slightly longer service interval. When I change it at 45k, (just did both diffs) the fluid is really not very dirty at all.

 

[searchingforXJ]

I'm a big fan of using synthetic fluids. They don't break down as quickly as regular fluids and they are a superior lubricant IMHO. The cost difference isn't really that much, especially for fluids that stay in service a relatively long time like axles.

As mine is a daily driver and doesn't see water, (obviously more frequent changes necessary there) I use Amsoil synthetic 75/90 and run it to around 45k. Yes, that is longer than the recommended 30k which you often see but my feeling (and the mfg) is that using the synthetics allows a slightly longer service interval. When I change it at 45k, (just did both diffs) the fluid is really not very dirty at all.

I was just at the parts store and 75W90 is almost 3x as expensive as the normal stuff.

 

[iwannadie]

I was just at the parts store and 75W90 is almost 3x as expensive as the normal stuff.

It adds up fast too, when I did both diffs and transfer case I priced out the expensive fluid. It turns a $30 fluid bill into almost a 100 bucks quick. For what my jeep sees I didnt think it was worth it. I wold rather just change it more often and run fresh fluid than pay more. Unless Its a high performance application I stick to normal oils nothing fancy.

 

[birchlakeXJ]

To each their own. There is no right or wrong answer regarding the use of synthetics. At my parts store, it's about twice as expensive for synthetic. And the slightly extended drain interval knocks that price difference down too. The extra $20 I'm spending every 3 years is definitely worth it to me.......

 

[Terrific]

Question for the group - how does water get in the diff? I would think you'd have to be in water (or have it splash in quantity) over the vent tube openings, which are nearly dash-level on the front of the fire wall (right?). Yet, I got water in my rear diff once when fording water that was only about 3/4 the way up my tires. What happened?

The factory only vents the rear end up to the frame rail on the unibody. It isn't very high and water can get in there.

 

[Terrific]

I'm a big fan of using synthetic fluids. They don't break down as quickly as regular fluids and they are a superior lubricant IMHO. The cost difference isn't really that much, especially for fluids that stay in service a relatively long time like axles.

As mine is a daily driver and doesn't see water, (obviously more frequent changes necessary there) I use Amsoil synthetic 75/90 and run it to around 45k. Yes, that is longer than the recommended 30k which you often see but my feeling (and the mfg) is that using the synthetics allows a slightly longer service interval. When I change it at 45k, (just did both diffs) the fluid is really not very dirty at all.

The factory gear lube, in my 92 2wd did alright for about the first 195,000 miles. I decided I'd change it then, while converting it to 4wd. No real need, but what the heck! My dad told me just to use old motor oil left in the drain basin to refill the axle. I just figured I'd go above and beyond though, and use new Valvoline 80-90 gear oil this time. Why skimp when you only have to change it every 15 years. Hahaa!!!

 

[winterbeater]

Murray's gear oil works fine for me. Are paper type gaskets available at NAPA?

 

[wim hoppenbrouwers]

Hallo. Which grade do you use Winterbeater?

I do prefer especially in summer and when the Jeep have to tow:Gear oil LS 85W140. In the rear of course extra 5% LS.
I put it also in the front diff. :sunshine:


'92 XJ

 

[stewie]

The factory gear lube, in my 92 2wd did alright for about the first 195,000 miles. I decided I'd change it then, while converting it to 4wd. No real need, but what the heck! My dad told me just to use old motor oil left in the drain basin to refill the axle. I just figured I'd go above and beyond though, and use new Valvoline 80-90 gear oil this time. Why skimp when you only have to change it every 15 years. Hahaa!!!

wow, just wow. there definitely is a need to change the gear oil WAY before 195k miles. primarily to remove contaminates like very small metal shavings created through normal wear (especially break in) on the gears. i have seen some bearing races that were extremely pitted and one was worse than sandpaper caused by debris on the race. also oil breaks down over time and use and looses it lubricating properties.

what can i say about using USED MOTOR OIL in the diffs?!?!? that would be an idiotic move and then some. motor oil is designed to work in the engine- it has properties that make it best suited for that. gear oil is specially designed for gear applications and as properties specially suited for that purpose. but hey, does your daddy tell you to run old coolant in your trans or gas tank too? hey, i hear that dish water has great lubricating qualities so maybe you should use that in place of engine oil- it could also clean out some of that sludge...:skull1:

nominated

 

[bigalpha]

Murray's gear oil works fine for me. Are paper type gaskets available at NAPA?

Get a lubelocker!

 

[bigalpha]

What's wrong with changing out every 15 years?

I just changed mine ... it came out kind of looking like a semi-liquid tar. Better lubricating properties because it coats the gears better, right?

 

[BruceB83]

The factory gear lube, in my 92 2wd did alright for about the first 195,000 miles. I decided I'd change it then, while converting it to 4wd. No real need, but what the heck! My dad told me just to use old motor oil left in the drain basin to refill the axle. I just figured I'd go above and beyond though, and use new Valvoline 80-90 gear oil this time. Why skimp when you only have to change it every 15 years. Hahaa!!!

Oh wow.

*Pondering how to respond*

*Still pondering how to respond*

:bunny: Bunny.