Dicks Divorce Causing XJ Build

the fuel pressure drops when the jeep is off? if i recall correctly there is a check valve built in the fuel pump that is supposed to keep the system primed for some amount of time.
 
find out where the check ball or valve is and make sure it isnt stuck open
 
ok.. got the pump out. took some umph from the 5lb sledge to get the lock ring moving. pump has been replaced before i believe. it is a bosch unit. it looked very clean and the inside didnt have anything like rust on the sides. or that i could feel anyways. i looked all along the fuel lines and didnt fint anything that looked like a valve of sorts. ill have to get my haynes out tomorrow and look for it in there. i love the location of the fuel pump. right in the front of the tank. i jacked up the rear and put the stands on the rails, let the axle droop and i had miles of room to get it out. really a lot easier than i thought it was gonna be. dont know how to tell anything about the pump though. how do i get it to manually turn on? (like what wires to use at the battery) the bad didnt look bad. i dont know how to tell though besides it being covered in rust or something, which it wasnt. the whole unit was really clean. im probably just gonna end up replacing it cause i boogered up the seal and the ground wire on it cause it wouldnt come off. ill order one next week.
 
oh and i got an update on the 8.25. im picking it up next week. he should have it out tuesday or wednesday for me to come get. ill verify the gears in it and then ill verify the gears in mine. PO said 3.73's but i dunno. my build plans are changing haha. now its gonna be 3.5 lift, 32"s, and gears. and bumpers. ill upgrade to a long arm later on. im probably gonna go with a RC or RE lift. not sure yet.
 
Sorry to break the news bud, but you're showing early signs of the Inch Itch... it's a horrible, expensive disease.
I'll be waiting for the "well, the 4.5" kit wasn't that much more expensive" post :D
 
Go with the RE lift, you will be so much more happier then the rc lift. Better all everything.

Just remember, do it right the first time and you will save a lot of money in the long run.
 
yeah. i just dont hear as good things about the RE customer service as i do on the RC people. and service is huge for me as in my industry its very important, so i tend to choose service oriented places over those who dont have good sevice.

not saying i wont be going with the RE lift, im just not sure yet. more than likely it will be the RE 3.5 super ride kit and ill get some quick discos from someone else, cause that seems to be the only difference and the money difference is like $200. More than likely, RE 3.5 is how it will be
 
i know there is what seems to be a lot of rambling going on in this thread, but i assure you it all has a point and there will be some progress soon haha.


so im gonna do the RE 3.5 superflex. its almost the same to do the super ride and then order the discos elsewhere and pay shipping on everything. ive also decided on a tire. i was looking at the 34x10.50 ltb, but i realize i dont think i wanna go so big on the tire, height wise. also, im pretty sure im going to be driving this thing more than I plan(winter, weekends, whenever i feel like sitting up higher than the Fusion haha) so im gonna go with something thats good on road and off yet still is aggressive. Ill take yalls opinions on what you think about the tire choice cause i have no direct experience with it. the size and the look of the tire is one reason why im considering it, and thats the 33x10.50x15 bfg mt km2. love the look and i can get 4 shipped for like $720. I think thats a hell of a deal for 33"s.

next, im picking up a 98 8.25 this week and ill be putting in an aussie locker in it. im gonna stick with stock flares, but cut up the sheet metal to fit the 33"s and then move the flares up. being the 10.50s i should be able to fit them on the stock 5 star rim and use the stock flares and not have coverage issues.


what do yall think of that! haha. but yeah, as always, opinions are requested and appreciated
 
Already planning on selling the heep? Sheesh don't throw in the towel yet big daddy!

There are two wires on the fuel pump. You can use test leads to make sure it works, just don't do it next to any fuel.
 
haha. no not giving up. just if i knocked up my old lady it might be for sale when i get it done. ill have a fuel pump this week. when it goes in, it should be running right. ill know more later on. and ill be working on the floor tonight i think. the driver side front floor came in so im gonna do that tonight i think. fits almost perfectly. a little massaging and it will be ready to screw in.

my favorite part is that the floor says made in america on it. gotta love that.
 
C92D86DAE607

discount code for Rock auto good till 11/13/10 just so yall know. 5% off i think.

so i ordered my fuel pump. 104.81 shipped. got the bosch one. should be in and running again by the end of the week. ill go ahead an replace my messed up cps(bad harness cause im a jackass) so that should be good. and the bosch has no check valve in the pump so it should help. we'll see whats what. hopefully this fixes my no fuel pressure and long starts. ill update with pics of the new floow in when im done
 
If you did in fact knock her up, might just finish fixing the vehicle's problems and sell it stock... you usually can't get enough for a lifted vehicle to cover the price it could be sold for stock plus the cost of the added parts. If you didn't, quick! Finish the jeep!

It's too bad you can't "stack" rockauto discount codes, I just got one emailed to me as well.

EDIT: also, it's fairly easy to test a fuel pump + the wiring harness to it. Yank the fuel pump relay and stick a jumper wire in the socket from pin 87 to pin 30. I use this trick when I have to replace a fuel tank and don't feel like wrestling with a rusty, leaky metal can with 20 gallons of gas in it right over my head. I just disconnect the pump outlet, drop it in a spare tank, jumper the relay socket and take a break till the tank is nearly empty.
 
haha yeah. if i did ill decide weather i want to keep it stock and a winter or back up car, or if i just wanna finish the stock repairs and get it sold. ill know by the end of the week. or i might just finish it with a 3.5, 31"s, lock, and call it a day and wheel it like that for ever haha. we'll see. for now ill continue to finish the stuff that needs to be done.

and yeah, i tried to stack codes haha doesnt work. would be nice though. the discount paid for shipping. and if you ship to a business (i.e. your work-if you dont work from home) it cuts down on shipping also.
 
ok. i wanted to give some updates to the rig. got the floors all cut out. coated in rustoleum. and today i got my first floor pan in. set screws FTW!! haha.

so heres how i started with the floors. i had to push them up farther forward in the floorbord than the mold was calling for, but there was a big gap near the left foot in that area so i had to push it up so it would be filled. wasted some floor, but it will be alright cause the back one will not be too bad so ill have plenty of room. in these first two pics youll see how after i got the floors where i wanted them, i drilled holes where the front seat bolts are to hold the floors where i wanted them. then i put in put in one set screw in the corner at the height i wanted the floor. (just realized the one didnt upload. but you get the idea)

CIMG0182.jpg


then i proceeded to put in the set screws in sequence to keep it down. put a few in the main floor support. around the gas pedal you have to be careful where your drilling, or youll hit some brake/gas lines (i dont know which ones but i know its one of the two) its in there very snug right now, and tomorrow ill jack the truck up and pound the old floor as close to the new floor as possible and then seal it. and it will be good to go. the mat thing under the pedals will cover up the bolts and the top part of the floor. look a bit cleaner. since im not building this to be pretty, i dont care about the rest of the bolts and what not. ill take a wire wheel to the entire thing, including the head of each bolt, to scuff it up for paint. or i might actually go ahead and put the spray on undercoating on it. ill take my time and scuff it up really good to make sure it sticks. i only want to do this once haha. heres the completed floor pan.

CIMG0196.jpg


CIMG0195.jpg


CIMG0194.jpg


CIMG0193.jpg



CIMG0192.jpg


lastly, the floorpan is made in America
icon_smile.gif


CIMG0190.jpg
 
dick.breakey said:
around the gas pedal you have to be careful where your drilling, or youll hit some brake/gas lines (i dont know which ones but i know its one of the two)
Click to expand...
It's actually both. The larger diameter shiny ones are stainless steel fuel lines, the smaller diameter rusty ones are brake lines and the vapor return line to the fuel tank.

Also - minor nitpick - those are self tapping sheetmetal screws, not set screws. Set screws are a type of machine screw with no head that threads into a hole in the side of a sleeve, knob, shaft etc to lock another shaft in place inside it.
 
ah cool. thanks for clarifying the lines. and for some reason i thought that the self tappers and sets were the same. thanks for making me aware. my only concern is they are not stainless. but i figure if i can cover them in sealer then it should be fine. then ill get some heavy duty floormats to keep from wearing the sealer off from traffic
 
haha yea. i figure what ill do is see if i can find some nuts that fit on the end, put them on, and grind down the rest of the ends. eventually. more worried about getting the floors in first then going from there.
 
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