Thanks but I definitely couldnt of done it with out all your guys help. For my first diff builds I would say it went well. And it was fun most of the time. Lol
Pattern looks amazing. good job. You'll have more piece of mind with this pattern versus others. I usually add 1 or 2 thousandths per side for carrier preload, but I also am a novice at gears at best. I actually put as much as I can fit (I don't have a case spreader - equal amounts on both sides) . which is usually only 1-2 thousandths. for pinion preload you'll have to look it up but you'll probably want(going off my front hp44) to be able to turn the pinion and have it take around 15-20 in lbs of torque(Not pounds) to turn the pinion with the shims in and the nut torqued to 220 or so. You'll need a dial indicator style in lb torque wrench- they are not cheap.
I found a service manual for a dana 35. They recommend adding .004" shim on each carrier bearing. For what ever reason I have been adding more to my axles, so I may have over done it. Anyways, I have a trick to putting the carrier in once you add the extra shims. When you added the shims, put the carrier into the freezer to shrink it, and put the axle out in the sun to warm it up. When the carrier is nice and cold, it will slide right into the axle. there will be a lot of condensation as it warms back up, so make sure everything is oiled.
Okay, thank you. I thought you added a few thousandth to each side of carrier just wasn't sure how much. As for the tools, I have everything thanks to amazon lol when I built the house 30. I read somewhere it's 20-40 inch pounds for pinion and around 10 inch pounds for carrier so 30-50 inch pounds total carrion and pinion preload not sure if this is correct. I will definitely try the freezer trick, because right now it's hard to put the carrier in but I don't think it's enough resistantso for preload. I will have to check once pinion preload is set.
Wow. I'm doing the exact same gear setup as you today, and have exactly the same backlash (to a 10 thousandth) .
My pattern is a tiiiny bit further in. Just posted after your post.
My setup was also "almost fun the whole time" except for the 3.5 hours spent pulling the inner pinion bearing for use as a setup bearing
The inner pinion bearing should be your brand new bearing pressed on. You don't need a set up bearing. Of you have any questions at all ask! These guys here know there stuff. They will make sure your on the right path. And thank you I will check out Yukon sit and get the specs.
The inner pinion bearing should be your brand new bearing pressed on. You don't need a set up bearing. Of you have any questions at all ask! These guys here know there stuff. They will make sure your on the right path. And thank you I will check out Yukon sit and get the specs.
Some set depth by shimming the inner race and some shim under the head of the pinion/inner bearing. Depends on the axle, you will need either a setup bearing or setup race.
Okay so I had everything set and ready to go. I installed the new carrier bearings and put the carrier back in and now it's loose fitting. And backlash is real close around .006 I did not add any extra shims after because I originally had the pound it in with a dead blow hammer. Can I run it like this? Or am I going to have to ruin this bearings and buy more shims to set carrier preload?
Okay so I had everything set and ready to go. I installed the new carrier bearings and put the carrier back in and now it's loose fitting. And backlash is real close around .006 I did not add any extra shims after because I originally had the pound it in with a dead blow hammer. Can I run it like this? Or am I going to have to ruin this bearings and buy more shims to set carrier preload?
I just did the exact same thing, and I don't have a bearing splitter. I've got access to one, but pulling the carrier bearings very often destroys them, so I'm not sure I'm going to bother. It was a tight fit, but the carrier preload is essentially null. Did require a few whacks with a hammer to get it in there, but I'd like to have at least 10in/lb carrier preload. My gear guy says he wouldn't worry about it as it didn't just "fall in".
So I guess I've got the same question, except that my carrier at least requires a small amount of coercion to get in the case.
I would probably just throw like 2 thousandths on each side depending on how loose it is. or you can use a dial indicator to figure it out. Just put the same amount on both sides or else it might change your BL. it could even change it anyway. after final pinion bearing torque and carrier bearing preload my BL on my 44 front tightened up almost 3 thousandths(this was also because I was using setup bearings, which many guys say that going from setup bearings to final bearings can really mess up your BL) .
I would probably just throw like 2 thousandths on each side depending on how loose it is. or you can use a dial indicator to figure it out. Just put the same amount on both sides or else it might change your BL. it could even change it anyway. after final pinion bearing torque and carrier bearing preload my BL on my 44 front tightened up almost 3 thousandths(this was also because I was using setup bearings, which many guys say that going from setup bearings to final bearings can really mess up your BL) .
Yup. My BL was 0.009 when I setup with the setup bearings, and the carrier preload was good. Installed new bearings and re-assembled and everything loosened off and my BL moved to 0.007.
Yes I know I should of added .003 to each side but I didn't have any shims smaller then .010 and when I set it up I used brand new bearings and honed them out and I had to use a 2 or 3 lb dead blow hammer to each side of the carrier with 8-10 hits to get it in there and then a 24 inch pry bar and a dead blow to get it out. Once I pressed on the bearingsame for final assembly I set the carrier in and one light tap on each side and it was in there. I don't like how easy it was to put it in there. Should I cut the bearings off and order a shim kit and add .003 to each side and or more? I'll have to order new bearings. What should I do? What did you guys end up doing? Keep it that way or redo it?
I recommend adding more shims. I feel it will shorten the life of the axle, especially if you're gonna drive this thing a lot. You can buy just the roller sections of the bearing at autozone, you don't have to repurchase the outer races.
Okay that's what I figured so I'll just order a shim kit and new bearings. That way I can just add shims then press bearings on instead of destroying the rear end. Thanks again guys
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