Is the rear 35spline? if not you should upgrade it or get a different one that is.
What condition is the front?
1. Id do a kingpin rebuild kit form the start or youll have deth wobble.
2. Buy another sheet metal kingpin cap to replace the steering arm on one side.
3. you can upgrade your 1/2in wheel studs to 9/16in studs ask for a 1980 F350 and they will be 9/16. If you need to buy rotors just buy the 1980 ones and modify the hub to accept the larger studs.
4. I dont recommend High steer on stock ford knuckles they are weaker then the chevy or dodge d60 knuckles. when I go deadenbear knuckles id go high steer
5. The front is a 1330 Ujoint.
6. The inners are neck down but 35 pline, the outers are 30 spline. I broke a long side inner first (before that i didnt have the t-case gearing or power to snap one it would just stallout) When you upgrade your stub shafts get alloys, if you get alloy USA shafts the inners will need to be grinded down to fit in the inner C and the outers will be too long (120 thousands). Yukon only makes chevy 35spline outers so those would be like 1intoo long.
7. the 806X spicer joint is the one to run, it should not be the weak link if you run lockouts. with flanges and alloy shafts you might want the CTMs but some guys run them and some dont.
If you get 17in rims, Id consider H2 wheels with ballistic beadlocks (have them weld it)
The 40in Maxis creapy crawlers have a better rep for side wall strenght then the BFG krawlers. Im running 16.5in rims so I wont be getting stickies soon.
The 42in Irock is a good tire. All the hardcore guys are now running the CCs.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=588576