Cutting Fenders

[playwithit]

I'll be trimming the fenders (at least the front) this weekend unless rain prevents it. May still pull the car out and work in the garage.

I have a Porter Cable jig saw with a pack of 24 tpi blades. I also have a Millwaukee 4 1/2" electric cutoff/grinder. Not sure which will do a better (cleaner) job.

I would like to reuse the flares, or a portion of them. The writeup I saw said to drill the holes for the flares first and then trace the area to be cut. Agree?

Any advice or encouragement would be appreciated.

 

[the_weirdo]

That's essentially what I did when I reused the flares. I did cut off the lower portion of the flares that extended to the rear otherwise it just flaps in the wind.

Remove the fenders, move them higher, and mark where you want the holes to go. This works best if you have someone hold the fender while you mark the holes.
Drill holes.
Tape fender (to prevent dicking up the paint when you cut) and mark a line roughly 1/4"-1/2" below the holes.
Cut with whatever you got. I used a Sawzall with a fine-tooth blade.

 

[JeepFreak21]

I like a cutoff wheel for the straight cuts, but I used a pneumatic body saw on the turns. There's a write-up on my site.
Good luck!
Billy

 

[nickangus]

when i did mine the paint that was under the fenders was bright and showed the overall fade of the jeep. i used that line to cut them nice clean arc in the same shape as the fender. i used a cutoff wheel for all of it then cleaned it up w/ a flapper disk

-nick

 

[DaveNJeep]

I used a dremel with the fiber cut-off wheel. Extremely smooth cut with no need to smooth or file the remaining edge.

I also installed Rusty's Flex Flares at all four corners. I highly recommend them, very flexible as proven by this past summer's run over Dusy. They recieved a few scratches but stayed flexible and unbroken.

 

[SKIM]

When I did mine I used this air nibbler it works great and doesn't warp the metal at all and you will get it done supper fast and clean.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46061

 

[Rockslut]

When I did mine I used this air nibbler it works great and doesn't warp the metal at all and you will get it done supper fast and clean.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46061

They work great but leave little half moon junks of metal everywhere. I recommend putting down a tarp or having someone hold a tray underneath the area you cut to catch the trimmings.

 

[Letterman]

It is good to leave some metal to bend it under.

Here is a WJ fender, I cut off a bunch:

But you can see the metal that is bent under:

Another view with the fender back on:

Still looked ok, and made enough room for the 33's:

 

[Letterman]

36" tires on a 3 inch lift?

Not much room:

Cut some lines:

Hammer time:

All bent up, highjack bent the body too:

On the other side the body color caught on fire, not that fun with the gas tank fill right there:

Done:

I know what you are thinking, "thats a sweet looking rig", and yes it got all the girls:

 

[playwithit]

Thanks for all the input guys. I just finished the front and rear fenders. Flares are on in the front, more to do in the rear. I took a few pictures and will post later.

The 33's are on and although I have not flexed it out, it loooks like it has good clearance. I'll have to check on this tomorrow.

I still have the shackle relocation brackets to go on. Should raise the rear an inch or so. It seems level now, so may add an inch spacer to the front.

I got pucks to bumpstop the front if required, not sure what I'll do in the rear.

Does anyone know if I can install the Clayton crossmember without installing the longarms? I don't think it would be a problem. Just want to get all the welding done at the same time.

Pictures when I locate my data cable.

 

[srmitchell]

Sweet.

Looks like a whole lot of us will be on 33's or bigger by summer!

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Letterman.. your grille is on upside down.

 

[Bryan C.]

Does anyone know if I can install the Clayton crossmember without installing the longarms? I don't think it would be a problem. Just want to get all the welding done at the same time.

I did this same thing. Crossmember welded on first, and the long arms a few weeks later.

 

[Letterman]

Letterman.. your grille is on upside down.

Whoops . . .

Is this better?

 

[playwithit]

Here are the pictures from my hack job. Undercoating, paint touch up and rear flares yet to be completed.

 

[Letterman]

1/10/2008?

Did the dog help or just drink your beer? Good suff!

 

[playwithit]

Frick-N-frack'n new fangled cameras. I guess I should set the date? :doh:

 

[SeansXJ]

lookin good!! i used an angle grinder for mine and kept it simple and easy.

 

[srmitchell]

Looks good man.

Im interested to see the rear mounted.

 

[playwithit]

Looks good man.

Im interested to see the rear mounted.

I sanded the crap out out of the fender lip and wheel well and then I taped, primed and used a can of undercoating on the wheel wells. I then touched up the fender with the oem Stone White paint.

Still undecided on the flare situation. I am leaning towards MJ rear flares, two piecing it, half on rear door half on the fender. I'll redo the fronts at the same time.

I am more concerned about clearance and bumpstops. Of course, the shackle brackets and coil spacers are first. Maybe this weekend.