Cutting 10.9 grade bolts

[Rocketman]

My recip saw and a Milwaukee torch blade can cut through a Grade 5, 8, 8.8 LIKE BUTTER. Those damn Torx55 head 10.9's in the UCAs are a PITA. Can anyone suggest a recip saw blade that can get through those things?

 

[ipkyss]

how about a cut off wheel in an angle grinder?

 

[Rocketman]

My compressor tank is small and can't handle my angle grinder. Runs out of power in about 5 seconds. I was hoping for the recip solution.

 

[Rocketman]

As I jack my own thread... kind of related.

In what position is the least load on the UCA's for easy removal and hooking up new ones. Both sides of axle dropped? On the wheels/ground? One side?

No one seems to have a definitive answer. Just putting on new adjustable UCA's, as all other lift components are on and have been. Hoping I don't need to pull much of anything off first.

 

[ChicksDigWagons]

I've used a saw blade that had some sort of synthetic diamond abrasive fused to the business end. It cut right through the upper cash steering arm on a ford F250 axle no problem. I'm sure it would cut through some pesky hardened bolts. Problem is, I don't remember what the name of the blade was or who made it!

 

[Rocketman]

Anyone have opinions on the Lenox Titanium edged "Heavy Duty" metal cutting blades?

 

[5-90]

When you're working with steel that has been hardened to that degree, you're really best using an abrasive and grinding through the part (I usually use a reinforced cut-off wheel in a Dremel. If I really want to make sure I've got a clean cut, I'll chuck the bolt in an adapter or directly into my drill press, and spin it rather slow.)

Don't go too fast when grinding through the bolt - and I'd suggest a mild cooling air stream, since you have a compressor. If you get the bolt too hot, you'll wreck the temper and heat treat at that area.

If you can get a Sawzall blade with some sort of abrasive (I don't know if something similar is available for your reciprocating saw, but if I've got a load of bolts to shorten, I'll use a RemGrit blade in my saber saw...) that's the way to go.

Using a toothed blade, or a regular metal cutter meant for mild steel, is a good way to spend a lot on saw blades for little result. When cutting anything that's been significantly hardened, you're probably working with a part that is harder than what you're cutting it with. Use abrasive, it's really easier (I've had a Dremel wheel last through cutting a half-dozen bolts. Those bolts will probably go through a half-dozen hacksaw blades. Each.)

5-90

 

[ColoradoXJ13]

Any reason you are cutting off the bolts (I assume these are the stock UCA bolts?....frame or axle?) A few weeks ago I was trying to do the same thing (install adjustable UCAs) and for the life of me couldn't get the UCA bolts to loosen, I gave up for the time being as it was getting dark.

Do you not have Torx bits or are you just cutting the bolts off to be done with it?

I am going to give it another shot with air tools someday.

I have heard that putting a big pipe wrench on a kunckle and jacking the handle up "un-torques" the axle (since the springs push the front of the axle down) and make the UCA bolts easier to remove.

 

[Rocketman]

Cutting them out because they wont come out and the Torx heads are stripped. Mine is a 93 with 13 years of corosion fun that Midwest Winters can create when doing mods. Besides, the front bolts are fused to the bushing sleeve and I have to replace those as well. I'd rather replace the infamous rear flag bolt anyhoo.

 

[klonestar]

Try Lenox Hackmaster blades! Used to cut tons of cast iron and nothing worked but these. Turned everything else to butter knives and didnt scratch the surface.

 

[Rocketman]

Actually a Lenox Master-Grit went through it like it wasn't there. Almost cut into the bushing mount on the axle. That would have been a "whoops."