Cut Lower Rear Quarters...(pics and write-up)

[freerider15]

Of course it would have! :roflmao:

 

[XJ_ranger]

I cut my corners recently...

my rear end seems to flex more

 

[monkeysxj]

i cant see the pics now but i would like to do this could u email them or some thing.

 

[joecool]

i cant see the pics now but i would like to do this could u email them or some thing.

x2
I really hate bringing back old threads, but without pictures I'm lost.

 

[green50gt]

I'd like to see the pics as well.

 

[aparke4]

i can throw up a few pics tue or wed when i get my jeep back from some diff work

 

[freerider15]

Hey everyone, I know alot of people have been interested in me getting these photos back up. I am trying to find someone who might have saved them, as I don't have them on my current computer and trying to find a way to get my old computer back and running as I may have them saved on there. They were posted in a How-to section had, but Remi told me its no longer...

 

[rock rash]

justin you tard. actually i forgot you were going to jackson hole so i guess im the tard

 

[FitchVA]

i knew being a pack rat might come in handy someday

but i'd suggest dl'ing them and hosting them somewhere cause i will probably be moving my stuff around in the next few months so these links might not work after that.

and they're ordered by filename, not the order they were posted

 

[xcm]

thanks for reposting pix, searching helps, but often the pix are dead, and on a subject like this, theyre worth a lot... send the bill to the people who reply 'search'

 

[scottsxj]

do yall think it might be easier to just hack it all off and then just get a peice of sheetmetal cut to the size of the hole and just weld it up in there.

 

[Simon 88YJ94XJ]

do yall think it might be easier to just hack it all off and then just get a peice of sheetmetal cut to the size of the hole and just weld it up in there.

It's doable, with a Tig welder, or a better quality Mig and good sheetmetal skills, some primer, and enough body color paint and clear to repair the original paint everywhere within a couple inches of the heat effect zone of the welds, some tubes of seam sealer to make sure the that any weld drop through, or start/stop cold welds or simply missed spots don't leak water (this mod will get you pools of water INSIDE your quarters every rain; in a heart beat if you don't do it well). Oh and last but not least you'll need to drop your Gas tank if you're smart, or use a Nomex blanket AT LEAST to keep sparks away from the gas tank, if you don't mind gambling with gas fumes.

So to answer your question.... no I don't think so, quite the oposite, much more of a pain and much more expensive. But it would be more structurally sound and more water tight which is why I'm going to redo my folded quarters and cut fender wells with a Tig this spring.

(I've got a rubber drain plug in the bottom of each side of mine

 

[Trail Rated]

Looks like the pics are gone again, does anyone have them saved? I'm gonna be doing this soon but I'm not sure where to cut and fold. I'm sure I can figure something out but it would be nice to see whats already been done.

 

[FIREBLADE]

I as well would like to see the pics.

 

[bknudtsen]

Here are the ones that I saved;

 

[pro5o]

This is my 89 that I cut.

 

[fubar XJ]

None of the pics show up for me.


Except for the guy with the red XJ missing most of the rear sheetmetal. And yeah, it sure looks like he cut some pinch seams. I'm just going to do the trim and fold method, I don't want to end up with a twisted mess with doors that barely close in a year or two.


EDIT: Except for the post right above this. That's more along the lines of what I have in mind. I like the new sheet metal welded into the gaps.

 

[pro5o]

None of the pics show up for me.


Except for the guy with the red XJ missing most of the rear sheetmetal. And yeah, it sure looks like he cut some pinch seams. I'm just going to do the trim and fold method, I don't want to end up with a twisted mess with doors that barely close in a year or two.


EDIT: Except for the post right above this. That's more along the lines of what I have in mind. I like the new sheet metal welded into the gaps.

I can't see they ether.

 

[FitchVA]

i see that a few of the original pictures have been reposted. but someone pm'd me asking if i still had the pictures i saved and if i could rehost them. so here they are now that i have switched domains...

Well I had been meaning to do this for some time now, and I noticed the number of people wanting to know more about this. I learned to do this from Chris Lasater(CagedXJ), and so I figured I would pass the info on to others!

Here is the start of things, which is drawing out where to cut on the actual panel. NOTE: the red line is where you cut all the way around the panel. The blue line is where to cut a little later on.

Here is what it will look like when you have cut all the way around...

The next step is to cut where that blue line was in the first pic, which results in this...NOTE: You cut like this on the inner part of the fender as well!
The Blue arrow show how that peice will fold up later. The peice that will show after cutting is outlined in purple, and has the red arrow pointed towards it. This peice folds up flat on the inside of the quarter panel.

This is a picture of the inner part of the fender when cut.the peice outlined in blue is what will fold up, to situate where the red box is. The lighter blue outline of the folding up peice is actually how much should be cut on the inner part. I cut a little bit too much, but it still worked out.

This is a picture of that inner peice outlined in purple before being folded up flat to the inside.

The next two pictures are the metal starting to be folded up.

This is the metal all folded up, being sealed with some sealant before I start pop-riveting...

 

[FitchVA]

and his second/final post with pics rehosted:

This is it sealed up and pop-riveted on the outside.

This is what it looks like from the top of the inside. Some of the pop rivets didn't want to cooperate so I had to make sure they were working from the inside.

Since some paint chips did come off in the process I repainted the area. I am sure it can be done without harming the paint, but I wasn't as subtle with it as I could have been.

This is the finished product, in the second picture you can look closely and see the pop rivets(sorry camera sucks).

All in all it took about an hour to do both sides. I would recommend doing the passenger side first, because which ever side gets done last looks better(practice). Getting this done I used an assortment of tools(dremel, angle grinder, BFH, 2x4 and floorjack, and pop riveting tool, etc.) I love how it looks, and it will be real functional on the trail.