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Crane cam 753941

PurpleCherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MO
Does anyone have any experience with this cam?

I think it will work best w/my motor as it sits now and for my future plans for my jeep. It has a higher torque range, a lot of duration and coincidentally, a lotta lift. I was mainly just goin for duration but this is ok w/me too :D Also, I like the overlap. But I'm really worried about it working w/my 2000 with the fuel injection in all so I was hoping someone else has already been here and done this.

Also, what do you think about getting hardened pushrods w/this cam? Necessary? I'm already planning on about 115lb springs and new retainers and lifters. Thanks!
 
I think Comp cams (different company I know) recommends not straying too far from stock pressures, maybe Im wrong. I dont think you can use most cams with 99+ timing set either, I remember reading it on Dino's site. If you want to harden the rods you can, but I dont think its necessary. Im running stock with a .465" lift cam and I dont have any issues, I dont think .035 more will be horrible.
 
Ya, I've looked into those and it might not be a bad idea. Thanks for the reminder. I guess it's pretty much the biggest cam you can go with with a stock computer. I just hope I have enough vacuum that I don't throw any CEL's :/
 
I have the camsavers. Good stuff so far, but I dont think the engine has been going long enough to see if they truly work yet. You dont want to go with a cheap lifter, I dont know if these are cheap with a bigger price tag, but Comp is a reputable company so here's hoping
 
Does anyone have any experience with this cam?

I think it will work best w/my motor as it sits now and for my future plans for my jeep. It has a higher torque range, a lot of duration and coincidentally, a lotta lift. I was mainly just goin for duration but this is ok w/me too :D Also, I like the overlap. But I'm really worried about it working w/my 2000 with the fuel injection in all so I was hoping someone else has already been here and done this.

Also, what do you think about getting hardened pushrods w/this cam? Necessary? I'm already planning on about 115lb springs and new retainers and lifters. Thanks!

That's a big cam for a 4.0 especially with the stock head. What exactly are you looking for in terms of performance? Remember that you're restricted to a 5300rpm rev limiter so it's pointless going for a cam that'll only make power from 2000-5000rpm.
 
Turns out that one's a little TOO big for a stock computer so I'm goin with the Comp 68-232-4. I found out that the Crane cam doesn't have the right bolt for the cam gear for the 2000 so I'd have to replace my timing set with an older style set thus adding $150 to the price of the project, so I decided against it. But now I'm having trouble finding a heavier spring that will fit the retainers for the 2000 8mm triple groove valves. Any ideas?
 
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The comp cam 68-231-4 plays nice with the stock computer, as does the 68-232-4. You will also need the older timing set and bolt/spring/pin for the cam.

Don't know what to tell you about the valve and the three ring groove. I ditched my old head and valves when I put the cam in and went with MP pieces.
 
The comp cam better bolt onto the cam gear cause they specifically told me it would. Hopefully they've updated it since you looked at it. And what are MP pieces?
 
The comp cam better bolt onto the cam gear cause they specifically told me it would. Hopefully they've updated it since you looked at it.

No it won't. You can reuse your existing crank sprocket and timing chain but you'll need the '94-'98 cam sprocket. You'll also need the '98 and earlier cam bolt/washer/spring/pin kit. You'll find the part nos. on this page of my stroker build-up site.
 
Well screw that. If I have to replace the timing set then I might as well get the Crane cam I wanted in the first place.

Question. Do I need just a pre-98' cam gear or do I need the whole timing set? Cause Crane said I'd have to replace the chain and the crank sprocket also but I don't see why.

So did you have the valve stem bosses ground down on your head to get the spring travel you needed or is there a way around that without buying longer valves? I'm planning on goin 2.02/160 down the road anyways so would it be more cost efficient to buy new valves now or just grind down the seats for the time being? I guess what I'm askin is how much would a machinist charge to grind down the seats? Ballpark.
 
purple cherokee, u might want 2 look into comp cams GM v6 valve springs and retainers ( part # 26915 and 774-16) $205 4 both , the valve springs have a spring load of 105#@ 1.8" closed and 293#@1.2 open. I am using these springs on my 96 xj 4.7 with the comp cams 68-232-4 462/472lift 206/212dur and they work great.I bought the cam kit and found out that the springs and retainers supplied n the kit would not work at all on the 4.0 head . The springs were too tall and wide 4 the spring pockets and the retainers and keepers are 3/8" valves (aparently comp cams did not research before they put 2gether this kit) As for as your 3 groove valve comp cams (r some other company) may have something 4 u. if u want 2 use 202 valves use ls1 valves ,they have 5/16" valve stems like the 4.0 . The valve stems on ur 2000 head r the same diameter as all the older heads. these srings r beehive and r lighter and hold there tension 4 a long time.hope this imfo will b of some help.
 
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