CPS replacement; are you kidding?!?!

K

kaifeiji

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I've done a search for the crankshaft position sensor replacement procedure and have come up with very little.

If I were made of rubber, reaching the CPS would not be a problem. What retarded engineer decided to put that thing up there!?!?

I've read that people loosen the crossmember and lower the trans/transfer case/engine assembly. I would assume that you also have to disconnect certain linkages? What about the exhaust; should that also be disconnected?

I'm seriously debating pulling out my angle grinder, throwing on a cutting wheel, pulling back the carpet in the interior, and removing the section of sheet metal immediately behind the CPS; viola, easy access! :dunno:

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
kaifeiji said:
I've done a search for the crankshaft position sensor replacement procedure and have come up with very little.

If I were made of rubber, reaching the CPS would not be a problem. What retarded engineer decided to put that thing up there!?!?

I've read that people loosen the crossmember and lower the trans/transfer case/engine assembly. I would assume that you also have to disconnect certain linkages? What about the exhaust; should that also be disconnected?

I'm seriously debating pulling out my angle grinder, throwing on a cutting wheel, pulling back the carpet in the interior, and removing the section of sheet metal immediately behind the CPS; viola, easy access! :dunno:

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I agree the location is a little stupid, I'm sure Jeep had good reason for it though. Lowering the crossmember entails just lowering the crossmember there's no more to it than that. I would not cut a hole through your floorboard, that's going to take a lot more time than just dropping the xmember. Take it for what it's worth but thats my .02.
-Collin
 
I should be a little more specific; removing the bolts is not the problem. The problem that everyone fails to mention is how in the world do you get any bodily appendage between the unibody and the bellhousing to put the sensor in place? I can't reach the thing from the top or the bottom. THIS is the biggest problem.

For those of you who have done this transplant, I'm not worthy!!!!!
 
kaifeiji said:
I should be a little more specific; removing the bolts is not the problem. The problem that everyone fails to mention is how in the world do you get any bodily appendage between the unibody and the bellhousing to put the sensor in place? I can't reach the thing from the top or the bottom. THIS is the biggest problem.

For those of you who have done this transplant, I'm not worthy!!!!!
Click to expand...
If you let the crossmember sag to it's lowest point while still supporting it with a jack you can get your hand up in there to position it. It sucks, but is doable. If you have the bolts out already you could also notch the bottom of the new CPS's holes so you could have the bolts started in the bellhousing already and then feed the CPS down from the top by the intake. That is the route some guys take.
 
Find someone with skinnier hands and arms. I have always found it to be a bit tricky but not too bad.
 
When we did my brothers he loosend the bolts from below and I assisted holding the socket on from above. It took us a while and we have skinny hands. Shouldn't be a two man job but it worked for us.
 
Last wheelin' trip I went on we had a CPS go bad out in the middle of no where. After driving for HOURS to get the part at a dealership, we then struggled for HOURS again to put it back in. We had been told to do it from the bottom but didn't see how that was possible and tried it from the top for hours. After much frustration I went down below again, this time having someone hold a flashlight and position the wrench on the nut from above. I saw a perfect path to get to it and in less than a min. had it all tightened down again. We didn't have to lower the crossmember or anything once I saw the path, it was money. It's one of those things that can take you hours the first time and only minutes after your first experience with it. I wouldn't want to attempt it without a helper though. Like family TJ said one person above and another below. That was the ticket for me as well...
 
I've done two, and there is only one position that I can reach it to put the new CPS in: for my size, from underneath, feet near right front tire, head somewhere about under the brake pedal. I did it without dropping a cross-member or disconnecting anything. Removing the old one took a universal joint at the socket and a bunch of extensions IIRC.
 
x2 Did my cps last month after it wouldnt start while stopped at a light. Used the extensions and a knuckle and got to it underneath as well. No need to drop anything but your impatience and be sure things are cool. I am 6'5" and 250 lbs and was able to do the swap out in 20 minutes. Sadly that was 20 mintes on top of the three days of trying to isolate the initial problem. I would also consider notching the new cps beneath each hole prior to installation in order to make the next one go even easier because you can leave the bolts in place. Found that out by searching and reading everything I found.
 
I use a 3' long 1/4" drive extension and a swivel socket, I think its a #11 or maybe #12 metric. Takes me about 5 min. I carry these tools on the trail as well. Leave it hooked up when you take out the bolts so that it doesnt drop and get hung up on something. Hook the new one up and drop it into place.

Use a little grease in the socket to hold the bolt in untill you get it sarted. I always make sure that I start the bolts by hand a couple of turns, you do not want to cross up those threads!
 
I have done it many times. Its not easy but its not as hard as you have made it sound. Dropping your front drive shaft helps a bit too. Thats what is mostly in your way. 2WD XJ's sensor is a lot easier to replace.
 
Well, thanks a lot for the info guys; you have given me hope that this can be done. I'll give it a try again this weekend and see what happens. :guitar:
Thanks again.
 
that 3/8 reverse torx stud is the WORST. I just changed a tranny and had to take out the CPS, got one side with a 10 mm socket, the other side was stuck and i didn`t have the right socket....stripped it and had to burn the bolt out. The cps on my rig is easy to get at, I have a 1 inch crossmember spacer so I just pop my TC linkage out and its right there
 
I have done it in 20 minutes in dark w. flash light. 3/8 rachet. 2 or 3, 8 to 10 inch extensions and the appropriate socket, 11 mill if I recall correctly. Go at it from below but from high in the tranny tunnel. Greg
 
4xBob said:
I've done two, and there is only one position that I can reach it to put the new CPS in: for my size, from underneath, feet near right front tire, head somewhere about under the brake pedal. I did it without dropping a cross-member or disconnecting anything. Removing the old one took a universal joint at the socket and a bunch of extensions IIRC.
Click to expand...

I use a universal joint and about 3 feet of extensions, takes maybe 15 - 20 minutes tops to replace. Just get enough extensions so the ratchet is near the t-case, that way there is room to turn the handle on it.
 
:party: DONE!! Everyone was right; I lowered the trans. crossmember and reaching the sensor and bolts was easy. It was a 30 minute job and the Jeeps dying problems seem to be elimated. Thanks again everyone!!!
 
yellowxj said:
there was a neat article about slotting the holes on the new cps so that if you ever have to take it out again you dont have to take the bolts all the way out just loosen them....
http://www.floridajeepers.net/viewtopic.php?t=20947
Click to expand...

I think I beat them to it, and posted it here.

I slot my CPS units in much the same manner as an ANL fuse - the first time I change it, it's a pain. After that - ten minutes, tops.

It also helps to have a single extra-long extension. I found a three-foot 3/8" drive extension while pillaging around tool shops one day - best $10 I ever spent. Even with "rigid coupling" extensions, you'll still have some wobble in the shaft that you have to deal with.

And, get a 7/16" or 11m/m socket with inbuilt universal joint as well - much easier and requires less clearance than a socket with separate universal joint.

Once you get the sensor slotted, you don't have to remove the screws anymore - just loosen them 1/4" or so and you've got room. Have a longish screwdriver to put a little weight on the new unit once you've set it in place, and you're good. You don't need much weight - any screwdriver (or bar stock) long enough to reach down there easily will be enough to keep it from shifting when you're not looking.
 
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