CPS Mopar? WTF!

[pezman65]

I know this is an old and beaten down subject but I recently tried to get a CPS from dealer and they do not make anymore! I bought one from Napa and it still runs like crap can't find the receipt of course! So what are my options would Crown be my best option which is also made in China. Good grief this sucks man my Jeep is Bucking and not driving and I'm getting tired of trying to figure out what to do here. Any help would be great thanks

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[Tim_MN]

The last genuine Jeep CPS I bought was from a Dealership Website. Some Dealerships parts guys just don't want to bother special ordering small parts.

 

[Czjeeper]

LOTS on eBay.

 

[RCP Phx]

If you have a part number, it's possible to find NOS thru Google.

 

[Heavyopp]

I just ordered one from Rock Auto yesterday -- Around $85 -- this is for a 2000 XJ

I don't need it but I'm running a used Mopar CPS now from my parts truck -- Had to order some other things and figured it was time to have a spare new Mopar CPS -- just in case

 

[Ralph77]

My Jeep dealership could have gotten me one. Usually they are pretty competitive with pricing to me. But I kinda of have an in. I am the guy that delivers their auto parts. But not this time. $99 plus tax. Got mine off Amazon. $79 in January. Which apparently has gone up to $87.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EFUFQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Cummins90]

Are you sure it's the CPS? any codes? TPS passes a sweep test? All injectors are firing? Jeep runs poor at the time or only in some conditions?

If you bought the part with debit or credit Napa will still swap it out if it's an echlin part.

 

[kastein]

Still acting up after you replaced that part? It probably wasn't that part.

I know I'm in the minority here but I do not buy the "fact" that you need a factory CPS. Would I prefer them? Yes. Do I care enough to spend 2-3 times as much and have to search for them? No.

I put a Duralast CPS in my 91 MJ back in 2012. It had some odd issues and people here insisted that it was the CPS, I replaced it to placate them, it didn't change anything. It turned out to be a bad ignition coil. It's still running on the Duralast one because I don't feel like swapping the original back. (I still have it as a spare, so I didn't really lose much I guess.)

I put a Duralast CPS on my 96 XJ in 2011 after the trans and torque converter failed so badly the heat coming off the torque converter melted the CPS - it was actually bulging. It worked fine after that. Far as I know the Rausch Creek people who bought the remains of that jeep to do an HO swap on one of their MJs are still using it.

I put a Standard Motor Products CPS on my 98 XJ in 2013 because it was simply dead one morning, wouldn't start. I'd been having weird bogging issues for years and only wanted to walk to the parts store once, so I bought a coil and a CPS. Installing the CPS didn't fix it. Installing the coil did. (If you're keeping track, I'm 0 for 2 on guessing whether it's coil or CPS at this point. I check the coil first now.) I drove it another 50k miles with that CPS in it before parking it, and last drove it in 2017 before cutting it up for parts.

I put a BWD CPS in my 88 MJ in 2015. The OEM one died at 148k miles... needed one on short notice and all the parts store had was BWD. I've been driving it since.

I'm pretty sure most "I replaced the CPS and it still does it, these aftermarket CPS are junk" complaints can be traced to replacing the wrong part, not the new part being bad too. Just my 2 cents.

(there are, of course, rare instances when the part IS bad... but they're the exception, not the rule.)

 

[Ralph77]

I lean towards Mopar parts for certain things. If not Napa. The Echlin line when it comes to sensors. So I was curious about something. Now the Napa CPS would have cost me about $61. But I work there so.... I looked up the senor at Auto Zone. '00 by the way. $93. My logic was just spend the extra $18, remember $79 off Amazon, and get a Mopar one. Why is Auto Zone so expensive on this item anyway.

 

[Tim_MN]

I have read plenty of postings where a genuine Jeep CPS or even TPS solved an issue aggravated by cheap Chinese clone parts. Maybe Renix Jeeps are OK with not genuine Jeep parts, but OBD Jeeps often are not.

I always tell people that most auto parts stores sell cheap crappy Chinese made parts, some that even come with a "Lifetime Warranty". These parts are poorly manufactured and/or made from inferior materials. They are often out of specification, or even failed, right out of the box. The ones that are not faulty many times will have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep engine sensors. Numerous threads detail long and frustrating searches for a "problem" that ended up being cured simply with genuine Jeep repair parts.

Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.

 

[Ecomike]

Well I am with you on this, same kind of experience. In fact I just stocked up on $3 Renix MAPs, CPS sensors and TPS sensors for Renix before Trumps Tariffs and NLA list makes me the last source in the USA LOL.

You and me make a Majority here ,LOL

Electronic stuff from overseas seems to work fine, even China.

Water pumps and Fuel pumps, I Use Japan or German like Bosch only. Hell the AW4 transmissions are Jap Transmissions, Toyotas, LOLOL.

Now if my job depended on it and I worked at Chrylser I would be screaming use only Mopar Genuine parts too LOL.

Still acting up after you replaced that part? It probably wasn't that part.

I know I'm in the minority here but I do not buy the "fact" that you need a factory CPS. Would I prefer them? Yes. Do I care enough to spend 2-3 times as much and have to search for them? No.

I put a Duralast CPS in my 91 MJ back in 2012. It had some odd issues and people here insisted that it was the CPS, I replaced it to placate them, it didn't change anything. It turned out to be a bad ignition coil. It's still running on the Duralast one because I don't feel like swapping the original back. (I still have it as a spare, so I didn't really lose much I guess.)

I put a Duralast CPS on my 96 XJ in 2011 after the trans and torque converter failed so badly the heat coming off the torque converter melted the CPS - it was actually bulging. It worked fine after that. Far as I know the Rausch Creek people who bought the remains of that jeep to do an HO swap on one of their MJs are still using it.

I put a Standard Motor Products CPS on my 98 XJ in 2013 because it was simply dead one morning, wouldn't start. I'd been having weird bogging issues for years and only wanted to walk to the parts store once, so I bought a coil and a CPS. Installing the CPS didn't fix it. Installing the coil did. (If you're keeping track, I'm 0 for 2 on guessing whether it's coil or CPS at this point. I check the coil first now.) I drove it another 50k miles with that CPS in it before parking it, and last drove it in 2017 before cutting it up for parts.

I put a BWD CPS in my 88 MJ in 2015. The OEM one died at 148k miles... needed one on short notice and all the parts store had was BWD. I've been driving it since.

I'm pretty sure most "I replaced the CPS and it still does it, these aftermarket CPS are junk" complaints can be traced to replacing the wrong part, not the new part being bad too. Just my 2 cents.

(there are, of course, rare instances when the part IS bad... but they're the exception, not the rule.)

 

[8Mud]

Just one question, is it bucking and acting stupid right after you start it or does it happen a few minutes after you start it. If it starts bucking and acting up a few minutes after start up you may want to look at the O2 sensor. O2 sensor often won't throw a code, until it is totally dead and may act up bad way before it throws a code.

I've used Standard parts for CPS and TPS with no issues, half the price of OEM. NTK or Bosch O2 sensors work fine, NTK gave me better mileage.

 

[BALTANAKT]

I put a NAPA one in and it wouldn't even start.

 

[kastein]

I have read plenty of postings where a genuine Jeep CPS or even TPS solved an issue aggravated by cheap Chinese clone parts. Maybe Renix Jeeps are OK with not genuine Jeep parts, but OBD Jeeps often are not.

I always tell people that most auto parts stores sell cheap crappy Chinese made parts, some that even come with a "Lifetime Warranty". These parts are poorly manufactured and/or made from inferior materials. They are often out of specification, or even failed, right out of the box. The ones that are not faulty many times will have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep engine sensors. Numerous threads detail long and frustrating searches for a "problem" that ended up being cured simply with genuine Jeep repair parts.

Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.

Of the 4 vehicles I listed with crummy brand CPSes in them in my fleet, only one was a RENIX. The other 3 are OBD1 or OBD2 HO. I think if they were "often" DOA, I would have run into a bad one by now.

I have zero issues with my 4 CPSes. Yet everyone else claims they have issues with them "often". I feel like maybe it's because most people I run into are terrible at electrical diagnosis on cars and are replacing the wrong part in the first place.

I'll keep rolling the dice. So far it's gotten me years and years of use out of my jeeps and kept at least 100 bucks in my pocket where it belongs. If I find a bad one I'll let you guys know.

BTW: the most common "my jeep shuddered and died and won't restart" issue I see is the upstream or downstream O2 sensor heater wiring shorting out on the #1 exhaust runner (upstream) or rear driveshaft (downstream) after the harness gets misrouted after repairs or comes loose from its clips. This blows one of several rather important fuses that kill power to the entire EFI system. I've helped literally dozens of people fix this issue while everyone else involved tried to tell them their CPS or ECU was bad.

 

[Ecomike]

I put a NAPA one in and it wouldn't even start.

Napa has three Renix brand flavor CPSs, the mid quality one has worked since Feb this year in your back yard, stock not even modified with the Cruiser54 mod.

 

[pezman65]

I lean towards Mopar parts for certain things. If not Napa. The Echlin line when it comes to sensors. So I was curious about something. Now the Napa CPS would have cost me about $61. But I work there so.... I looked up the senor at Auto Zone. '00 by the way. $93. My logic was just spend the extra $18, remember $79 off Amazon, and get a Mopar one. Why is Auto Zone so expensive on this item anyway.

Both my Napa sensors CPS that is failed my Jeep did not run until I got a CPS from the junkyard. Both work Eklund

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[BALTANAKT]

Is it time to send NAPA a letter asking them to sort out their CPS situation for the XJ community?

 

[alexgalexg]

In my experience napa is the WORST of all the parts stores. I've never had a part last from them. And even if you bring a receipt back they will not honor a refund or any warranty the part came with. Surprised nobody has sued them to the ground yet.
Advance auto will sell you stuff that doesnt fit.
Autozone is the best of all these parts stores in my experience. They all sell Chinese junk but autozone at least sells junk that fits and honors warranty and refunds.
That being said. I have a CPS from them in my 99 and it runs great but does cause it to start up with a high idle for a second which is very annoying. If you aren't in a pinch I'd go find an american one online.

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[JPWilson]

I just ordered a Mopar one off of Rockauto. There is a 5% discount code listed on pirate4x4.com. I had a no-start out in the middle of nowhere in Windrock after running a hard trail and shutting it down to check up ahead. Fired back up after cooling down. I'll keep my original as a trail spare.

 

[Ecomike]

There is no possible way a CPS can cause a high idle.

While I have been a huge Autozone fan for 20 years or more, I have seen a huge jump in off the shelf junk quality in Durajunk quality that was defective right off the shelf. So bad at times I had to switch to O'Reileys and NAPA for a part. I rarely use NAPA and O'Reilly because they are hard to deal with. But in the last 18 months I have found myself using Amazon Primer 1/3-1/2 of the time, and I always search the first now, or as one of several I search before ordering. I have found myself turning to Advanced several times the last 2 years a last resort and got good service and parts. In reality I have probably used a dozen parts/supply sources the last 1-2 years.

Walmart for tires and oil
Rock Auto
Advanced
O'Reilly
Autozone
NAPA
Even Ebay on occasion (I use to use Ebay a lot) But Amazon Prime is way faster, :clap: and easy to get refunds/warranty fast.

Amazon and multiple sellers there
and about 6 others on line for this and that part.
Not just jeeps....That have and work on
99 % of the time I never buy an OEM part or buy from a stealership, it's against my Religion, LOL

I spread the wealth LOL

Bad parts I got the last 5 years or so from Durjunk, rebuilt CV joint, New Rear brake drum, so defective you could look at it and see the off center-ness, rear brake wheel Cylinders, one leak air in but not fluid out, drove me nuts for months trying to solve the problem. next one pissed fluid out trying to bleed it, switched to Wagner brand at NAPA, problem solved, Never had a bad alternator (rebuilt) from Autozone, or bad starter, but the water pumps are durajunk, we should make a list of bad parts sources????

Never had a bad TPS or CPS (Renix) from any source, as all the Renix CPS sources suck the same, LOL, need to Modified and moved closer to the teeth to put out a stronger signal. Solves a lot of other issues....

I no longer use any T-Stats on Renix jeeps other than Murray brand made in Isreal. I could spend all day writing this list.

Don't recall ever getting a bad part from Rockauto, wrong one just once over 10 years ago, but every one that problem, and they fixed me up right away. Rockauto freight is the killer for me, and get free delivery in 48 hours with Amazon, which is why I use them more and more and more. Fast and free delivery is changing the landscape fast. And I am noticing that several of the locals have jacked their prices way WAY up lately.

I can get $6 WSWiper blades/assy delivered free from Amazon, and the local stores want $20 and have go pick them up. I fear the day is coming where they may start to vanish. Hard to say, folks that need a part in hours may keep them going for a long time.