Copperhead fabrication "rock ring" install

i bought dirtbounds rock rings not to long ago about to install them.....i think you made a wise investment and to be honest these black steelies are cheap and we added a cheaper upgrade to make them stronger...and im not the type of guy to drop big money on a rim just to beat the crap out of it in the rocks..sooo..haters gunna hate...i like the rock ring idea you did good work on them
 
People keep spurting out "UN SPRUNG WEIGHT, UN SPRUNG WEIGHT!",Im guessing this isnt a track day car, unsprung weight isnt a bad thing when it comes to crawling. As Whitexj90 said, what do you think 33" tires do? Oh yeah... add unsprung weight. Nobody bitches about that.... Same with dana60's, hydro assist, thick diff covers, axle truss', or even higher spline axles.
 
Actually I worry about every pound of unsprung weight. But thats just me...a former desert racer.

I weight going from 33 to 35, the trade between weight and ground clearance. I don't add a huge 1/4" truss when it's not needed. I do run quality alloy rims instead of bigger axles. It's all related!

You also have to weigh all upgrade by cost. This is a cheap way to keep runs from bending. If that's the biggest problem you have and cash is short, good solution.
 
never had problems with my aluminum rims. the ones i have average 200 for the set on cl. nobody can say i'm nice to my jeep....
 
blackrock rims are heavier gauge steel than cragar steelies. I did rock rings, however I chose one with more voids to allow dirt & water to escape. To each their own.

*** Mine balanced very well with only inside weights. No issues... As you said You need to paint the poop pot of the inside, especially the weld seam.
 
Actually I worry about every pound of unsprung weight. But thats just me...a former desert racer.

I weight going from 33 to 35, the trade between weight and ground clearance. I don't add a huge 1/4" truss when it's not needed. I do run quality alloy rims instead of bigger axles. It's all related!

You also have to weigh all upgrade by cost. This is a cheap way to keep runs from bending. If that's the biggest problem you have and cash is short, good solution.

What is the negative effect of all this added unsprung weight going to do for me at 2mph? I understand it increases my braking and acceleration but that sucks as it is already. I'm happy with my choice, these rims won't bend at the lip any more.

You going to KOH this year? Explain to those guys your story about unsprung weight and how all the added weight of truss's and heavy duty axles isn't needed.
 
What is the negative effect of all this added unsprung weight going to do for me at 2mph? I understand it increases my braking and acceleration but that sucks as it is already. I'm happy with my choice, these rims won't bend at the lip any more.

You going to KOH this year? Explain to those guys your story about unsprung weight and how all the added weight of truss's and heavy duty axles isn't needed.

I'm flying out in 3 days.. I will pass along that they are doing it wrong...:laugh3:
 
I didn't say a truss is a joke, I said I weigh the benefits with the downsides. A KOH rig more than likely needs all the protection it can get but those rigs handle like crap in the fast sections to be fair.

And yeah you listed the two reasons unsprung mass is a negative. If you feel the protection you gained from the rock rings was more important, you made a good choice.

I'm with vanimal, $200 a rim and no issues and less weight. Spinning an extra 50 pounds of weight eats a lot of power and leads to broken axles.

Not sure why you don't like my posts about the topic. This is a discussion forum right!
 
Why would I have to buy new aluminum rims?

I'm not saying the OP wasted his time at all. Way I see it is that those rings do add strength and protection. Who cares what they weigh and how much aluminum rims cost for race alloys?
 
Why would I have to buy new aluminum rims?

I'm not saying the OP wasted his time at all. Way I see it is that those rings do add strength and protection. Who cares what they weigh and how much aluminum rims cost for race alloys?

Exactly, I agree, everyone has their own opinions, I built these to suit my needs, and I plan to abuse them more than ever now :)
 
heres my view on alum. rim... Aluminum is a soft material. I have had issues with lug nuts backing out on aluminum rims on my rig before when going fast and then hitting a puddle then fast then puddle.. Now with steel you dont have to worry about the metal expanding and contracting as drastically as alum. Also in the rocks i have witnessed alum rims get gouged to hell and start leaking air. Yes that can happen on steel as well but takes a lot more abuse to do so.

Id take the weight of steel over alum any day. Plus add these rings and you have a pretty damn strong rim. Now i agree with the person who posted about going with a bigger pattern on them to allow the dirt and mud and water to run out of them and not get stuck in them.
 
I think the wheels will shed mud just fine since there are all the half circles cut out around the outside edge of the ring. Flood enough water in there or if uber muddy, scoop the bulk out and then flood. The divits keep the wheels from holding water too.
 
Ive got copperhead fab rim stiffeners installed on my cragar soft 8s as well. Where i wheel, id say just about everytime i go out, someone bends a rim, sometimes you can just bang it back with a hammer, other times, not so lucky.

The reasons i chose to do mine, they look pretty badass (imo), and i have yet to even come close to bending an outer lip.

If i could go back in time and do it all over again, i wouldnt buy from copperhead fab. After i placed my order, it didnt ship for like 3+ weeks, and during those 3 weeks, i didnt get a single call or email back. Turns out they were in mexico for some race. On top of all that it looks the plasma cutter they used needed a new contact tip because it didnt cut straight through, it cut on all weird angles and shit.

Anyways heres a pic

IMG_7137.jpg
 
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