Colorado B/S Thread
- Thread starter in4aride
- Start date
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Since everything on HD pickup with a diesel seems to be priced like it's plated in Gold I would have assumed a brand new fender would be around $400 , so when I crushed my passenger fender in f-ing around on the back roads I bought some body tools...Roatary/ DA buffer...couple hammer/dolly kits...heat gun...wolf metal shrink disk...various sanding blocks...some 2k high build primer and 2k clear ... I bought bondo to smooth it outjust in case but it would at most be just to true it up ...lol...well after spending 6 hours working the dent to where i could smooth it out with almost no filler then primer and prep for paint I decided to check to see just how much those fenders cost...MOTHER-Fing-shyt they are no more expensive shipped zinc primer coated from AutoParts warehouse than an f-ing Cherokee fender F-*&&%^ $98.00 shipped to my door ...lol...I spent 6 hours working a crushed fender into a nice fender and was going to even heat shrink it a bit to skip using any filler and I could have just ordered this painted it and put it on ...lol...and spent the 6hrs plus tool/material shoppingt time on my Jeep ...On the bright side I do have a bonus dent on the back side of my cab that I wanted to fix ...But damn $98 ...that has to be the chepaest part I've bought for the truck .
Since everything on HD pickup with a diesel seems to be priced like it's plated in Gold I would have assumed a brand new fender would be around $400 , so when I crushed my passenger fender in f-ing around on the back roads I bought some body tools...Roatary/ DA buffer...couple hammer/dolly kits...heat gun...wolf metal shrink disk...various sanding blocks...some 2k high build primer and 2k clear ... I bought bondo to smooth it outjust in case but it would at most be just to true it up ...lol...well after spending 6 hours working the dent to where i could smooth it out with almost no filler then primer and prep for paint I decided to check to see just how much those fenders cost...MOTHER-Fing-shyt they are no more expensive shipped zinc primer coated from AutoParts warehouse than an f-ing Cherokee fender F-*&&%^ $98.00 shipped to my door ...lol...I spent 6 hours working a crushed fender into a nice fender and was going to even heat shrink it a bit to skip using any filler and I could have just ordered this painted it and put it on ...lol...and spent the 6hrs plus tool/material shoppingt time on my Jeep ...On the bright side I do have a bonus dent on the back side of my cab that I wanted to fix ...But damn $98 ...that has to be the chepaest part I've bought for the truck .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Tax man should be paying out quickly and that means Atlas money and some cash left over for some bling ... lol...I was hoping to find a used 4:3 atlas and save $1000 , but...lol... new is fine . I was looking on CL and it always amazes me what folks are asking for a 241 geared 4-1 the 2:72 241 go for $300 in mint shape ...lol...it's still just a 241 but the sellers are always asking $1000-1500 ...lol...$1500 is used Atlas territory ...can't blame the sellers since some people must be paying those prices for what amounts to just being a 241 .
Tax man should be paying out quickly and that means Atlas money and some cash left over for some bling ... lol...I was hoping to find a used 4:3 atlas and save $1000 , but...lol... new is fine . I was looking on CL and it always amazes me what folks are asking for a 241 geared 4-1 the 2:72 241 go for $300 in mint shape ...lol...it's still just a 241 but the sellers are always asking $1000-1500 ...lol...$1500 is used Atlas territory ...can't blame the sellers since some people must be paying those prices for what amounts to just being a 241 .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Because it's lots of fun filling in the divots made by the pads and grinding them smooth.
Because it's lots of fun filling in the divots made by the pads and grinding them smooth.
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Re: The Colorado BS thread
You mean the extra 3 minutes it takes to setup the welder, grind the paint/rust off, weld a little bit, grind flush re paint and clean/put away the welder?
I don't get it. I'd rather do that every other brake change than deal with other styles of sliders.
You mean the extra 3 minutes it takes to setup the welder, grind the paint/rust off, weld a little bit, grind flush re paint and clean/put away the welder?
I don't get it. I'd rather do that every other brake change than deal with other styles of sliders.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
First time for me and the Jeep. Both sides had chunks worn out on inner and outer pads and I was overly anal on repairing the first knuckle. Second knuckle got plenty attention from the grinder and now it's a pretty easy fix but still a stupid design.
First time for me and the Jeep. Both sides had chunks worn out on inner and outer pads and I was overly anal on repairing the first knuckle. Second knuckle got plenty attention from the grinder and now it's a pretty easy fix but still a stupid design.
riverfever
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodland Park, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
So...not real impressed with Automation Jeep up in Golden. Front rotors were warped on my Jeep with just under 30,000 on it so I had to go back up there after buying it to have them replace rotors and pads. Then...it was time for the 32,000 mile service so I got oil/filter and plugs this morning and went to start working. Noticed a small oil puddle in the garage. Got under the thing and it was covered in oil. All the way to the back. Filter was finger tight. Those of you that know me...know the anxiety that was produced when I saw the oil all over everything under that vehicle. Then I looked at the driveway. :shocked: I'm going to call the dealer to bitch about it but I don't even know what could make it better. Morons.
So...not real impressed with Automation Jeep up in Golden. Front rotors were warped on my Jeep with just under 30,000 on it so I had to go back up there after buying it to have them replace rotors and pads. Then...it was time for the 32,000 mile service so I got oil/filter and plugs this morning and went to start working. Noticed a small oil puddle in the garage. Got under the thing and it was covered in oil. All the way to the back. Filter was finger tight. Those of you that know me...know the anxiety that was produced when I saw the oil all over everything under that vehicle. Then I looked at the driveway. :shocked: I'm going to call the dealer to bitch about it but I don't even know what could make it better. Morons.
UnlimitedMatt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Re: The Colorado BS thread
River - Things are tough all over.
Last month my daughter took her 2013 JK to Larry Miller Jeep, in Thornton, for an oil change and a similar situation happened to her. The day after the oil change I noticed a dozen or more oil spots on the garage floor. I climb under and find everything tight but oil is dripping from the front stabilizer to the transmission cross member. It is also sprayed all over the underneath side of the engine cover and the hood. I assume the oil tech stuck the oil nozzle in the fill hole, then turned around and turned on the pump but the filler popped out of the file hole.
So I take it back to the dealership to pitch a fit. The service manager starts to say: well, it could be a cracked oil filter housing, blah, blah blah. I told him to go ahead and check that if it will make him feel better, as I knew it wasn't cracked, because I already checked. They also said they added dye to the oil so they can find 'the leak'.
Long story short, I had them steam clean under the hood and the entire undercarriage.
But I got the last laugh because two weeks later I traded in that JK to them for a new JKU.
River - Things are tough all over.
Last month my daughter took her 2013 JK to Larry Miller Jeep, in Thornton, for an oil change and a similar situation happened to her. The day after the oil change I noticed a dozen or more oil spots on the garage floor. I climb under and find everything tight but oil is dripping from the front stabilizer to the transmission cross member. It is also sprayed all over the underneath side of the engine cover and the hood. I assume the oil tech stuck the oil nozzle in the fill hole, then turned around and turned on the pump but the filler popped out of the file hole.
So I take it back to the dealership to pitch a fit. The service manager starts to say: well, it could be a cracked oil filter housing, blah, blah blah. I told him to go ahead and check that if it will make him feel better, as I knew it wasn't cracked, because I already checked. They also said they added dye to the oil so they can find 'the leak'.
Long story short, I had them steam clean under the hood and the entire undercarriage.
But I got the last laugh because two weeks later I traded in that JK to them for a new JKU.
riverfever
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodland Park, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
That's too bad Matt. So far I like the KK but the oil change is a bit of a PITA. Filter sits right above the diff and they have this black plastic piece that looks like its supposed to catch all of the oil coming down out of the filter and block once it's loose and divert it passenger side to then drop into the pan. Getting to the filter is interesting. One guy over on Jeep Forum said he removes the driver's headlight to get at it. I got at mine from the top and reached down.
The next surprise was that I needed to adjust the parking brake. The Limited (called the Latitude in 2012) has the polished 18" wheels that you can't get ANY all terrain tires for (fixing that real soon). To adjust the brake you have to pull the wheels, remove calipers, and rotor and then adjust the star nut. Well I hit the wheel while removing it and thought, "Boy that sounded like plastic." Looked at the back of the wheel and sure enough...hubcaps. Couldn't get them off though so I did some research and they are glued on and underneath is that exact shape but just with a brushed finish. Found someone that tried to remove the adhesive and it messed up the finish. Those wheels were a hefty upgrade. I'm ordering the 16" wheels that came on the Sport and will then have a lot of options for a good AT tire. Was looking to see how much I might be able to get for all 5 of mine on CL. Those wheels sell for $260 a piece!!!
That's too bad Matt. So far I like the KK but the oil change is a bit of a PITA. Filter sits right above the diff and they have this black plastic piece that looks like its supposed to catch all of the oil coming down out of the filter and block once it's loose and divert it passenger side to then drop into the pan. Getting to the filter is interesting. One guy over on Jeep Forum said he removes the driver's headlight to get at it. I got at mine from the top and reached down.
The next surprise was that I needed to adjust the parking brake. The Limited (called the Latitude in 2012) has the polished 18" wheels that you can't get ANY all terrain tires for (fixing that real soon). To adjust the brake you have to pull the wheels, remove calipers, and rotor and then adjust the star nut. Well I hit the wheel while removing it and thought, "Boy that sounded like plastic." Looked at the back of the wheel and sure enough...hubcaps. Couldn't get them off though so I did some research and they are glued on and underneath is that exact shape but just with a brushed finish. Found someone that tried to remove the adhesive and it messed up the finish. Those wheels were a hefty upgrade. I'm ordering the 16" wheels that came on the Sport and will then have a lot of options for a good AT tire. Was looking to see how much I might be able to get for all 5 of mine on CL. Those wheels sell for $260 a piece!!!
- Location
- Thornton, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Stay far, far away from LHM in Thornton.
https://www.facebook.com/lhmdenverjeep/reviews/
They had my WK for 2.5 weeks for a no start issue before their "master tech" decided that a valve spring had broke, the valve was seized in the head, so it needed it a new head for $3,200 out the door. Their explanation of this did not sit well with me, so I had it towed out and pulled it apart myself. First of all, how do you know it needs a new head, if you did not even pull the head I wonder? Long story short, broken valve spring, mildly bent valve, $275 in parts, back on the road.
Stay far, far away from LHM in Thornton.
https://www.facebook.com/lhmdenverjeep/reviews/
They had my WK for 2.5 weeks for a no start issue before their "master tech" decided that a valve spring had broke, the valve was seized in the head, so it needed it a new head for $3,200 out the door. Their explanation of this did not sit well with me, so I had it towed out and pulled it apart myself. First of all, how do you know it needs a new head, if you did not even pull the head I wonder? Long story short, broken valve spring, mildly bent valve, $275 in parts, back on the road.
YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Just read 2 pages of Facebook reviews of this place....... How does the Service Manager Jerry O'Dell still have a job? How on earth are they still in business??? :dunno:
Just read 2 pages of Facebook reviews of this place....... How does the Service Manager Jerry O'Dell still have a job? How on earth are they still in business??? :dunno:
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Any locksmiths in the house?
The core of the deadbolt on my shed just came out and pins dropped out.
If I can get into the shed, I have a new lock just sitting there.
Can't see any way to turn the bolt though. Must be a trick.
Any locksmiths in the house?
The core of the deadbolt on my shed just came out and pins dropped out.
If I can get into the shed, I have a new lock just sitting there.
Can't see any way to turn the bolt though. Must be a trick.
riverfever
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodland Park, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I ordered new wheels for the Liberty (16"). I need to decide on tires now. Any suggestions for a 245/70/16? Looking at the General Grabber but wanted to ask.
I ordered new wheels for the Liberty (16"). I need to decide on tires now. Any suggestions for a 245/70/16? Looking at the General Grabber but wanted to ask.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I've been watch various youtubes and I see them drilling to get the pins and the cylinders out, but my cylinder is already out...Seems like I should be able to press and twist with screwdrivers? Tried for a while and did not happen on correct combo...
I've been watch various youtubes and I see them drilling to get the pins and the cylinders out, but my cylinder is already out...Seems like I should be able to press and twist with screwdrivers? Tried for a while and did not happen on correct combo...
Re: The Colorado BS thread
If you want to wait a few days and save some coin I'll have the tires off the jeep for sale. I think that's the exact size they are. We're off the Tacoma. Have like 5k on them. Pm me if interested. I can bring them to springs with me when I register the car.
If you want to wait a few days and save some coin I'll have the tires off the jeep for sale. I think that's the exact size they are. We're off the Tacoma. Have like 5k on them. Pm me if interested. I can bring them to springs with me when I register the car.
turbobrick
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carson City, Nevada
The Colorado BS thread
Stick a Philips screwdriver into that 'D' shaped hole down inside the lock. Then, turn counter clockwise. If it doesn't turn easily, try wiggling the door as you turn, you may also need to lift on the door to take the pressure off the latch. From the looks of the lock, misalignment between the lock and frame is probably what killed it in the first place.
Stick a Philips screwdriver into that 'D' shaped hole down inside the lock. Then, turn counter clockwise. If it doesn't turn easily, try wiggling the door as you turn, you may also need to lift on the door to take the pressure off the latch. From the looks of the lock, misalignment between the lock and frame is probably what killed it in the first place.
