coil spring removal?

[Burley]

Alright, i have read different posts about how you can remove the front coil springs without removing the lower control arms. I am putting 3" Rubicon Express springs in but can't get the stock ones out. I have the Autozone strut/spring compressor and still can't seem to get the #$%&! thing out. I took the opposite side wheel off and let the axle hang; no good. I jacked the opposite side up; no good. Do I really just have to remove the control arm? That nut is tighter than blazes. I can't even imagine how to get the new 3" ones in.... Any help you guys can offer I would appreciate!

Burley

 

[Yucca-Man]

Try disconnecting the swaybar and even trackbar but if that doesn't do it then yeah, you'll have to remove a control arm or two

 

[Flyfisher]

Well, based on my experience with lifting my XJ 3", yes you do need to remove the lower control arms. I'm surprised a 3" lift doesn't come with new (longer) lower control arms. Without them, your caster will be way off.

 

[btl_fed_xj]

If you can't get your front coils out without taking the control arms then there's definitely going to be no chance to get the 3" coils in there. I lifted my 96 XJ about a month ago and I found that www.go.jeep-xj.info/index.html had some good info for removing the front coils. I was able to get those out without spring compressors. In order to get the new 2.5" OME coils in I had to use spring compressors and while I tried to pry them in there with a 6' tire iron, my dad whacked the base of them into place with a 10' 2x4. Not exactly the most professional way to get them in there but it did the trick. I found that it was quite a large project to get done in a day and a half but between two people we go it done.

-Jamie

 

[lobsterdmb]

i d/c the tracbar and sway bar, removed the shocks and used the strut compressors and the coil springs came out with a little twisting to get them at the right angle. Then used the compressors on the new springs and they went in no problem. I did this 2 times when I installed my 3 inch lift and then added a 1.5 inch space above them to put me at 4.5 inches of lift. I didn't d/c the control arms for either but in between the two lifts i put longer lca's on.

John

 

[Fullsizexj]

Put jack stands behind the lower control arm mounts, disconnect the draglink from the pitman arm, disconnect the sway bars, and disconnect the tracbar from the axle.disconnect the bottom half of your shocks put a floor jack under the axle, remove the tires and lower the axle until the springs can be removed, I do not know why anyone needs to compress springs or remove control arms to do this. This is the way I have always done it. Its worked for 3", 6" and 8" lift coils

 

[small pederson]

you rented a spring compressor? crazy, try hose clamps!

 

[Goatman]

10-4 with what Fullsize said. I've done a ton of them, and I've never removed the control arms. In fact, I've never removed the track bar or drag link. Did you unscrew the bumpstop? That gives you 3-4 inches. I assume you disconencted the shocks. Use the jack stands under the frame, let the axle hang free, use a floor jack to raise the opposite side, and they should easily come right out with no spring compressor. You might need a compressor to put the longer springs in, if you don't disconnect the track bar or drag link.

 

[xj92]

I've taken my coils out and put them back in at least 7-8 times because I'm fickle and I keep using different size spacers with them. You don't need spring compressors and they don't make it easier. Like Fullsize said, lift it way up right behind the LCA mount on the body. Remove only the tire on the side you're working on. Disconnect the lower control arm, the shock, and if you have a stock track bar, disconnect that also. I usually put a jack under the axle before disconnecting all that stuff because it makes it easier to get the bolts out, then I lower the axle down until I can remove the coil. Put the new one in, use the jack to raise the axle back up until the LCA hole lines up and then connect that and the shock. Leave the track bar disconnected, put the tire back on and lower that side. Go to the other side, do the same thing, then hook up the track bar again. If the track bar doesn't line up, have somebody cycle the steering while you watch. That will make it line up. Removing an LCA is no big deal, especially if you only do one at a time, because the other 3 links hold it in place so it lines right back up.

 

[poomba]

Popeye and I removed the swaybar, and the shock and got the springs in with a compressor and a lot of words I learned with 5 years in a coal mine and 4 in the Infantry. But yeah, we had it up on a lift using floor jacks and hanging on one side or the other. Dunno if that helped any, but the other guys in the shop had fun with it. Btw, never stand to the side when someone lets go one side of the track bar (another project)..luckily, adoption is an option..: He's got a 2000 with a 3 inch lift...ig:

 

[Burley]

stupid question: how in the heck do i unscrew the bump stops? I tried to twist them off last night with a pair of huge channel locks but no dice.

Thanks for the tips guys. Tonight I'll just go ahead and disconnect the lower control arm and trackbar. I'll let you know how it goes.

Do I really need longer control arms with a 3"lift?

Burley

 

[Neil]

Use a pipe wrench on the bump stop. The control arms arent necessary but they are a good idea. You may have issues with allignment after the lift.

 

[Ivan]

According to your sig, I would assume you're working on a '98. If that's the case, the bumps stops just pull out. Try rocking them while you pull.... they'll pop off.

Ivan

 

[footdale]

Just put a 3" lift on for the first time about a month ago. I removed the trackbar at the axle, swaybars, shocks, had it jacked up real high and the axle would not droop enough to remove the coil. I wrestled with them for a while to no avail. I looked at the instructions and saw that it said to remove the upper control arms. As soon as I did that, the axle lowered way down so I could easily remove the old and install the new coils without a compressor. I did have trouble with the axle rotating once the UCA were removed, the holes wouldn't line up. I used a ratcheting tow strap pulling on the pasenger side UCA mount to rotate it back into place. All the various instructions and hints I read were different. Just have to mess with it until you find what works.
Don't know if anyone answered the bumpstop question, but they just pull out. Twising wont do anything.

 

[Burley]

I have an '98 and a '88. I am lifting the older '88 XJ.

Can I just disconnect the lower control arm or do I have to do the upper? Man, that lower is a lot easier to get to!

I just got a 1/2" impact wrench to help me with some tough bolts, so I'll have some help for tonights wrenching party!

Burley

 

[Burley]

Well I had to disconnect the lower control arm to get the first spring out. I also had to use the compressors to get the new one in. Maybe some years are different but there is no way to get them in/out without compressors and having the control arms on for a 1988. Now I have the problem of getting the LCA lined back up to get the bolt back through it. footdale mentioned a tow strap? Do you mean a come along? How about a big pipe wrench on the axle? Will I damage anything?

Burley

 

[footdale]

Before I removed the upper arms i unbolted the driver side lower arm at the axle. When I did this, I noticed that I could rotate the arm more, thus something else was keeping the axle from being able to droop more. The uppers were a bit of a pain, but as soon as they were off the axle, I could take it down super low making the coil exchange a cake. When I said ratcheting tow strap, I ment just a ratching strap, similar to a come along. I didn't think of using the stap until after many frustrating hours of trying to wrestle the axle into place. Once I used it, everything fell into place nicely.

 

[Burley]

Before I removed the upper arms i unbolted the driver side lower arm at the axle. When I did this, I noticed that I could rotate the arm more, thus something else was keeping the axle from being able to droop more. The uppers were a bit of a pain, but as soon as they were off the axle, I could take it down super low making the coil exchange a cake. When I said ratcheting tow strap, I ment just a ratching strap, similar to a come along. I didn't think of using the stap until after many frustrating hours of trying to wrestle the axle into place. Once I used it, everything fell into place nicely.

I just spoke with Eric at Rubicon Express and he said that removing the arms is not neccesary. He said that the binding is taking place in the control arm bushing so allI should have to do is loosen the bolts and that should be fine. I didn't want to seem like a smart a** but I can see that the axle is bottoming out on the lower arm. All I know now is I have to get that axle attached back to the LCA. It looks as if I have to pull the axle forward? How could I do that with a tow strap?

 

[Deyman]

This may sound dumb, but if you're using the compressors, jack up the side you're working on and then put on the compressor. Disco the trackbar, shocks, and swaybar links. Push down on the side your working on and they should practically fall out. I didn't have to disconnect the LCA's when putting on the OME kit. Just don't rip off your brake lines in the process

Good luck

Deyman

 

[footdale]

Did you try jacking the axle up/down to see if you could get it to line up? I had the problem that the axle rotated while on the jack so moving up/down didn't work for me. The idea for using the tow strap came from one of Rusty's techs. Might want to call RE back up and ask what they do in similar situations.

Here is what I did with the stap...
On the upper side there is that nice long mount that extends from the passenger side axle that I was able to wrap the stap around. I hooked one end to the frame and the other around that mount. When I ratched the strap it rotated the axle into place.

Since you are trying to line up the bottom, you'll want to have one end hooked to a strong part the the vehicle (where depends on which way you need to rotate), and the other needs to attach to the lower part of the axle somewhere. Off the top of my head I can't think of anything. Just need something that when you pull on it, it will cause the axle to rotate.

I almost went crazy during this part of the install. I was working by myself and doing it for the first time didn't know what to expect. The sense of accomplishment was great when it was finished. Good luck!