Cleaning throttle body

Cottontail

Three-De Off-Road
NAXJA Member
Location
Nashville, TN
I just picked up a junk yard throttle body and IAC. Why??? Well, my 1990 is not running and I have it almost narrowed down to not getting enough air at start up. It was cheaper to buy a whole unit with IAC and TPS, as well as the MAP from the junkyard for trouble shooting ($45 out the door for all 4 parts). The junkyard stuff came out of a Waggoneer that ran when it was sent to the yard.

Anyway, there is a pretty good build up of sludge inside the throttle body and on the "bullet plunger" of the IAC.

What is the best method to clean it? What liquid should I use, do I rub it with a cloth, do I soak the parts, do I dab it on with a q-tip?

I already used a screwdriver and scraped off a lot of it.

Thanks
 
Unless its a liquid screwdriver I wouldn't be using it clean my TB. I used commercial cleaner and was careful not to score, scrap or the gouge the TB in any way.
I let the cleaner do most of the work, used lint free cloth and toothbrush where needed.
Don't forget you'll have to re-calibrate the TPS if you remove it.
 
Commercial cleaner like what????

Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, Ivory dish soap?

Also, what is the harm in a scrape inside the throttle body. Nothing goes into it but air???
 
If you really want to clean it, either use spray carb cleaner or Castrol SuperClean. Remove the sensors first, otherwise just go ahead and order another tps.
 
If you think the iac is causing it not to run try to eliminate it by taking it out of the throttle body and try to start the engine...but be ready to shut it off as soon as it starts(if it does)because it will rev extremly high!!!
 
I just went through that on my 88 and one of the 89's -

Dismount TB assy.

Dismount TPS & IAC

Using a good carburettor cleaner and a Nylon brush (toothbrushes are GREAT for this sort of thing!) thoroughly clean the TB bore, butterfly valve, idle air passage, and anything else you see.

Use Q-tips (OK) or pipe cleaners (preferred) for cleaning out idle air passage through throttle body. These also work well for clearing the MAP port.

Check over thoroughly.

For final clean, use either LPS PrecisionClean (my favourite,) Castrol SuperClean (not bad either) or Simple Green and the hottest water you can bear to stick your hands in. Use a clean toothbrush for detail work.

Allow to dry.

Reinstall IAC and TPS.

Remount TB

Adjust TPS and TV cable to transmission.

5-90
 
I took mine off, took it apart, took it to the kitchen sink and cleaned it with Big Orange (like Simple Green) non caustic degreaser, PB blaster, HOT water, dish soap, a toothbrush and sprayed it with WD-40 to displace the water and let it dry. Afterward, I put a new TPS as it was failing and did the IAC as well.
 
My trick for "speed-drying" parts, when I'm in a hurry, is to heat the oven to about 250 while I'm cleaning, and then put the parts in there for about 10 minutes when I'm done and have rinsed them. Works better than pretty much anything else.

For stuff like this, if you feel like lubricating the parts afterwards, a little dry graphite "lock lube" will work nicely. No need to get anything wet in there, y'know?

5-90
 
bajacalal said:
I took mine off, took it apart, took it to the kitchen sink and cleaned it with Big Orange (like Simple Green) non caustic degreaser, PB blaster, HOT water, dish soap, a toothbrush and sprayed it with WD-40 to displace the water and let it dry. Afterward, I put a new TPS as it was failing and did the IAC as well.
Since we're on the subject of these two sensors,where is the best place to get them besides the dealer?
 
bajacalal said:
NAPA, Echlin brand parts good quality stuff.

But I work at NAPA so wtf do you expect me to say.

I figure you would know better than anyone you deal with the parts.I've heard they are good,seems like the tps is pricey(90.00)is it worth it?How much would the stealer charge for it?
 
I have no idea how much the dealer wants. Reason, is the dealerships vary A LOT in how much they mark up the parts. $90 I think is high for the NAPA (also NAPA prices vary depending on who owns the location) I do remember thinking it was cheap after factoring in my employee discount which brings it close to their cost. Also this was the HO not the RENIX one. I could of course tell you how much we list the part for but not tonight (obviously).

I do know NAPA generally picks quality stuff for suppliers and my TPS works good (after the factory one developed dead spots). I did "improve" it by sealing the anywhere water could get in with hot glue. The Echlin electrical parts line I think has the lowest defective return rate of everything we carry.
 
quote: The Echlin electrical parts line I think has the lowest defective return rate of everything we carry.[/QUOTE]

That's good to know,I think I'll give one a shot.
 
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