Clayton 3 link truss with CAD axle

[TRAILREADYXJ]

I figured I'd post this as it may be useful for those with older CAD D30s. Just installed a Clayton 3 link and went with the full truss vs just the bridge. Yes the bridge would have been a much easier option in this case, or I could have picked up a non CAD 30, but my build budget is about maxed out at this point, so I figured I'd try to make it work.

One big problem is the casting actually has a cavity that goes up into the UCA mount, so once you cut it off enough, there's a hole that needs filled.




Cut and welded a patch plate. There was enough beef in the casting I am not concerned about strength. I am running a 1 piece shaft, but feel this could still be made to work with a functioning disconnect if for some odd reason you wanted to do so.



Yeah, I got a little deep near the bolt hole to the left, but nothing a little weld won't fix.



It will fit now,but did need to cut a notch in the truss to fit the CAD cover/block off plate. Then I proceed to trim the gusset to fit the CAD housing. Got busy here and didn't take pics, but simply used cardboard to make a template and traced it to the gusset.

The truss keys into the UCA mount on the drivers side so it's a no brainer where everything goes, and the instructions were spot on. Remember to weld SLOWLY and jump around a lot to avoid warping the housing. I jumped back and fourth between welding the truss and installing the crossmember so it didn't get too hot.




Ready to go!


Crossmember weld, gotta love welding to sheet metal! Keep in mind I'm an axle builder, not a welder, but I feel pretty comfortable this will hold.



Final Install pics

 

[Evan03]

Awesome fab skill for a axle builder. Do you have any more photos on the frame side.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

Awesome fab skill for a axle builder. Do you have any more photos on the frame side.

Thanks. Here's a few.



There isn't a lot of clearance for the upper mount, and I needed to massage the inside of the frame rail with a hammer to clear the backside of the upper mount, not much though.



There's enough room to get a wrench between the mount and the frame. There's also enough room that the brake and fuel lines have enough room.



Also added some Clayton high steer sway bar mounts to clear my heim steering.




You can also see the trackbar mount brace I whipped up in those pics. The prior owner had welded the stock TB mount to the frame, so instead of getting something else, I just added to it. I also wanted to drop the frame side as it was easier than relocating the axle side to correct the geometry with the draglink mounted OTK. I ran a similar setup on past Jeeps and it seemed to help tighten the front end up quite a bit.


I trimmed the gusset a good bit more than in the above pic to clear the coil under full flex/compression.

 

[Evan03]

Man you Do sweet work.

Could you run a 3 link off the factory driver side upper control arm mount or does it need to move in towards the center alittle?

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

Man you Do sweet work.

Could you run a 3 link off the factory driver side upper control arm mount or does it need to move in towards the center alittle?

I assume you are referring to the axle side mount? If so, yes you can, and other companies utilize it, however it would be highly recommended to run a johnny joint vs a stock style bushing to help prevent axle wrap.

 

[Evan03]

How does a johny joint get rid of more axle wrap then a bushing. Frame side will have a hiem joint

 

[rockclimber]

How does a johny joint get rid of more axle wrap then a bushing. Frame side will have a hiem joint

axle wrap is rotation of the axle housing.
with a 3 link, almost all of the rotational force is being controlled by the single upper.

a bushing will allow too much movement

any 2" joint won't live long

2.5" joints should be used.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

axle wrap is rotation of the axle housing.
with a 3 link, almost all of the rotational force is being controlled by the single upper.

a bushing will allow too much movement

any 2" joint won't live long

2.5" joints should be used.

Exactly, there's a lot of force applied to that upper arm, and with only one arm you want to get rid of as much play as you can. You want to do the same for the frame side as well. The kit I used has 2.5" johnny joints everywhere.

 

[trippled]

Is your frame plated where you welded the cross member on?

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

Is your frame plated where you welded the cross member on?

Actually no, it's not. :gag:
There will be additional bracing, and potential plating in the future, but for now it's just installed as Clayton designed it.
It's also not a DD and gets trailered to the trail, although street legal and occasionally street driven, it's a 3rd vehicle for me.

 

[trippled]

Is it supposed to be welded on? I've never seen one so just curious.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

Is it supposed to be welded on? I've never seen one so just curious.

Yes, it bolts in the stock location and gets welded on. The bolts had broken off on mine so I just fully welded it. it's a 3 piece crossmember so the center section is still removable for servicing the trans/t-case without having to remove the arms which is a huge advantage over other kits on the market that require removing the control arms to do so.

 

[Evan03]

Isn't 2.5" a little small " 1.25 Hein joints are bigger than that.

 

[rockclimber]

Isn't 2.5" a little small " 1.25 Hein joints are bigger than that.

no, they aren't.
most 1.25" heims come with 2.63" wide misalignment spacers. (the same size as your standard LCA bushing and 2.5" johnny joint.

1.25" heims are actually undersized in one critical area.
t they have considerably less surface area around the ball than a 2.5" johnny joint or bushing, which means they will wear much faster.