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chassis replacement

you could always go to a junk yard and buy a shell and then swap your junk into it.
 
I have a '92 Limited I'll sell you for $2.5K complete! Absolutely no rust anywhere. Just have to come out here to the Left Coast and pick it up! Perfect for a mechanic as it needs a little TLC if you want it for a nice
P3300005.jpg
DD, otherwise its good to go. It is my DD.

WoW, if you weren't on the other side of the world, it'd be mine.
 
im not sure of how much experiance you have with the tools ? and im not gonna ask.. but i would be very careful here and think about it for a minute .. then go buy that other jeep.. mine started out with a little rust in the front floor pan like this
IMG_0051.jpg


and ended up like this
102_0840.jpg


102_0849.jpg
 
well been busy with finals at school and being on a college budget i decided well for the winter to just glue some metal down. I am going to use some panel bonding adhesive from 3M. just to throw it out there I am going to use aluminum that I got for FREE from a HVAC guy I know.

-Ryan
 
If you have $2000 to blow on a body shop...

Just drive south a few hours, pick up a rust free body for $300-$500 and do a body swap. It can be done in a weekend with a few friends and the right tools. You will have maybe $1000 into after you buy the body, pizza, and beer.
 
well thats the problem I don't have 2k to spend i almost have $500. I don't know why people assumed that because I got a quote for 2k from a body shop. I would got to the body shop. If I was going to go it would be for them to weld and thats all. I don't have money to spend on a welder and the last time I asked a friend to weld for me... all I can say is that swiss cheeses has less holes than the weld line this friend left behind.

-Ryan
 
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wow, jeepcomj is being a tard. color me shocked.


not trying to be. he supposedly has the skills and training, but now we find he lacks a welder.


...he should have posted that he can make the parts and just intended to have them weld them in. that would have saved his entire thread from just being plain dumb....no xj is worth investing $2000 in frame work, unless it's a complete custom tube frame and interior cage.
 
jeepcomj, do you really live to storm into threads and angrily say people are wrong about tech?

See, some of us don't do this for monetary reasons... if we did we'd be driving Hondas. We do it for FUN, so it's not an "investment", it's a hobby. I'd drop 2 grand on fixing my floors in my rustbucket XJ no question, though I'd be unhappy about the price, I'd learn to do a hell of a lot of sheetmetal work and repair that way. I'll probably end up spending around 300 (or more if I plate the frame at the same time) on materials when I finally decide to redo the floors in my XJ. Economically speaking that's a bad decision, I can pick up a rust free XJ around here with a blown engine/tranny for 300 and swap everything over. But then I wouldn't have as much fun (debatable) and I wouldn't learn to weld new floor panels.

Actually, all of that sounds fun now. Wish I had the space for a second XJ...
 
jeepcomj, do you really live to storm into threads and angrily say people are wrong about tech?

See, some of us don't do this for monetary reasons... if we did we'd be driving Hondas. We do it for FUN, so it's not an "investment", it's a hobby. I'd drop 2 grand on fixing my floors in my rustbucket XJ no question, though I'd be unhappy about the price, I'd learn to do a hell of a lot of sheetmetal work and repair that way. I'll probably end up spending around 300 (or more if I plate the frame at the same time) on materials when I finally decide to redo the floors in my XJ. Economically speaking that's a bad decision, I can pick up a rust free XJ around here with a blown engine/tranny for 300 and swap everything over. But then I wouldn't have as much fun (debatable) and I wouldn't learn to weld new floor panels.

Actually, all of that sounds fun now. Wish I had the space for a second XJ...

no but people should think about what they *should* be capable of, and stop taking their xj's in for ridiculously expensive repair jobs on things that either aren't worth fixing, or are ONLY worth fixing if you do it yourself.


If I had an xj with junk rear frame rails...it would either be scrapped, or truggy'd.

I'm a comanche guy...so I'd be more inclined to go the extra mile for an MJ than an XJ. that said, if I had bad frame rust on a comanche, I would also scrap it. just scrapped an '88 chief for that exact reason...only had 120k on it, 4x4, d44, roll bar, etc... and I got it from the original owner. Actually, I've scrapped no less than 12 comanches for that reason...the investment is not met evenly by the gains of the investment, therefore it's not worth it.


From what the OP is saying, he has the skills (though he didn't exactly point that out until I questioned him) but not all of the proper tools. he also made the whole thread sound like he would actually pay for the frame rail sections, and pay the labor to install them...then changed his story to being able to make the parts and just have the shop weld them in for him.

I guess I was pointing out that even that is a smarter decision...it would run him less than a grand, and then he can drop a few hundred on sheet metal to repair the floors.


floor replacement on an xj/mj is easy. an investment of less than $500 resulting in more than that in gains through fun using the vehicle (be it just d/d, or wheeling).


Just sounds to me that he bought a $5000 vehicle a couple years ago and wants to turn that investment into $7000...I don't know if he already has mods on the xj, but if he does, let's say upwards of $7000 invested.

$7000 in a handful of years is a poor investment, especially if more investments are planned in the future. with the rust being that bad already, who can tell how long the xj will actually last?...may be a year, may be 10. That's not enough assurance to justify actually going through with the repairs unless you can keep the cost MUCH lower than the shop can do it for.
 
The headache you're likely to run into (rather quickly, I might add...) is that the XJ - as mentioned previously - is a "unibody" vehicle. It doesn't have a separate frame with the body bolted to it, it has a lightweight frame welded to the body.

Advantages?
- Lighter weight
- Increased stiffness (generally. There are exceptions...)

Disadvantages?
- PITA to repair anywhere near a frame member (shear panels are easy - cut-and-weld.)
- PITA to modify the body anywhere near a frame member, less so in the middle of a shear panel (but it still can be difficult.)

What's a "shear panel?" Picture a square frame - made of whatever. Doesn't matter. We'll use 2x4s for our example.

No matter how well you nail/screw/glue/whatever the thing together, there's still going to be flexion in the frame. Doesn't matter.

Now, there are two ways to get rid of the flexion -
1) Triangulation. Typically involves adding another member to divide the frame into triangular sections (corner-to-corner diagonal is easiest,) but the added member is typically comparable to the frame members (read: you're adding another 2x4.) This can be heavy.
2) Shear panel. Fill the frame with a lightweight panel on one side - say, 1/8" plywood. In many cases, this adds less weight than the triangulation beam would.

Also, the problem with trying to patch structural elements (read: frame members) is that you will have the weldment itself (which is much harder than the surrounding metal) and the HAZ of the weld (Heat Affected Zone - which is softer,) thereby forming a discontinuity in the frame element's strength, and a stress concentrator.

When I was doing the industrial mechanic thing 'way back when, I saw a steelyard shop have to throw aside an entire load of I-beam because they were all cut 1/4" too short (they ended up using them on another project later, so they didn't lose the money.) Most structural ironwork isn't allowed to be welded for the reasons given above - that's why structures are rivetted together.

I wouldn't have any trouble with the idea of repairing a shear panel or a body panel - but the first frame member that I couldn't replace totally (instead of patching) would mean that I'd end up getting another body and transplanting everything. I don't even really like it when they pull them straight on a frame jig - it's better than the cut-and-weld approach, but if they can't get rid of the crease totally you'll still have a stress riser. Oops.

And yes, I nuked a batch of posts a few posts earlier. One got reported, and I don't want the rest of this thread spinning wildly out of control, y'know?
 
well I have patches I made out of some metal in the process of waiting for the panel bonding adhesive to cure. On the issue of the frame rails I have a person who will willing to sell me rust free frame rails about 3 feet worth for $200 including S&H. Does that sound like a good deal.

-Ryan
 
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