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Caster Angle Adjustment Question

When i 1st lifted, i got DW from too much toe in and a loose axle mount track bar bolt. With the string method i mentioned before and also using a tape measure to double check, i got within 1/16" toe in, I still had some shakes so i took it in and got it set to 0" toe in and it drives like a dream at 3.5" of lift with stock control arms. My caster is off 2 degrees but i still can do 80mph, i just get alittle bump shake but ive never changed my steering damper.
 
Makes sense. I have 1/8" tow in but that does not seem to be the problem. Before work to tomorrow Im going to check the castor, then I will have real numbers to go off of.

Question: Is positive castor when the bottom of the pumpkin is forward? And negative castor is when the top is farther forward?
 
Think of the fork on a bicycle. The frame tube is canted forward at the bottom, and the rake of the fork continues this trend. If you were to remove a front wheel and the steering knuckle, and draw a line through the center line of the balljoint, it would be tilted to the rear at the top, and toward the front at the bottom. Now think of too much caster, and each wheel wants to be the dominant one. They start arguing, tugging back and forth. Or, not enough, and neither wheel is inclined to do anything, especially track straight. Caster is what makes the steering wheel come back when you've turned a corner. That's why the proper amount of caster is the best. Don't let the appearance of the pumpkin fool you into thinking that it's favoring any particular caster setting. The real thing to be concerned with is the angle of inclination of the ball joints/knuckles. And, I've had alignment guys flat out tell me that the caster can't be adjusted. That's when you show them the shims at the rear of the lower control arms, and the elongated mounting-bolt holes.
 
Just out of curiosity, how are you checking caster at home. Unless the knuckles and other assorted parts are out of the way, the only way I'm familiar with is the way an alignment shop would do it, with the clip-on gauges, and steer the wheels through their entire arc of movement, and compare readings.
 
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