car audio gurus

camarors8992

NAXJA Forum User
I got a good deal on a mobile Spec digital D-block along with a mobile spec 4 farad cap. It's overkill for my system, but I got a good deal on some new stuff. I hooked the block up and the voltage displays just fine, about 14.0-14.1 with the radio off, and depending on the bass note it can get down to about 11.9-12.1. However, the amperage side ALWAYS displays 0 Amps, it hasn't ever changed and I'm not sure why. Here's a picture of said block:

100_3652.jpg


How it's wired, one 8 gauge in, and 2 8 gauge out for the amps, and a single 8 gauge ground.

100_3653.jpg
 
I would say the ammeter circuit is bad if you've used it, watched voltage go down and it always stays on 0. Send/take it back. You might see less of a voltage drop if you used a 4-gauge input.
edit: So the middle bar is the ground(to which you have used a blue input), and the outer edge is the 12v in, which you also have used a blue input and have a blue and a clear out? It looks like you have the ins and outs backwards. On the second pic, it looks like there's 2 possible ins for power and 2 for ground and looks like both can either take an 8-gauge(smaller set screw) or a 4-gauge(bigger set screw). The bar to the right is connected to the left one by a bar going under the middle ground. Your 2nd amp you want powered should be hooked up to the bottom right output cause the way you have it now both are running through one of the fuses on the block.
 
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I think I could get more out of the sub with a better amp, i have a 10" Alpine Type R sub in a custom build box that's powered by a Lightning audio 250.2 that I have bridged. According to the LA site it's rated at
85 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms
125 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohms
250 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohms bridged

Where the sub is 500 RMS and 1500 Max.
 
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