Captain Ron's MJ frame plating pics?

Jeff 98XJ WI

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Butternut, WI
This may not be the place for it, but I was wondering if anybody saved the pics Ron posted of his original MJ build where he plated the frame. He tells me he had a computer malfunction and lost the pics. Perhaps someone saved them for reference and would be willing to share them? Thanks, Jeff
 
I collected a number of pictures of Ron's frame plates and posted them to an album found here:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMq2


He used 10 gauge cold rolled steel sheet and for the MJ, he bent them in an L shape, filled them with rosette weld holes and a few notches here and there. For the XJ plates, he used the same steel and his fancy machines to bend them in a U shape as well as punch them full of holes. I think the U shape is actually missing the inner upper part. So, it's more like a J? Jeff
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
I collected a number of pictures of Ron's frame plates and posted them to an album found here:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8IbtGzVo3bMq2


He used 10 gauge cold rolled steel sheet and for the MJ, he bent them in an L shape, filled them with rosette weld holes and a few notches here and there. For the XJ plates, he used the same steel and his fancy machines to bend them in a U shape as well as punch them full of holes. I think the U shape is actually missing the inner upper part. So, it's more like a J? Jeff

How much shipped to 95827?






















No, seriously.
Billy
 
XJ_ranger said:
What about free shipping in the back of a white diesel truck? :chef:

No markup in that. :D

Thanks for getting those together Jeff. If I'da known anyone would be interested in them from a technical standpoint, I would have certainly documented them for the board better.

Jeff 98XJ WI said:
He used 10 gauge cold rolled steel sheet and for the MJ, he bent them in an L shape, filled them with rosette weld holes and a few notches here and there. For the XJ plates, he used the same steel and his fancy machines to bend them in a U shape as well as punch them full of holes. I think the U shape is actually missing the inner upper part. So, it's more like a J? Jeff

They are 10 ga CRS. I also have them set up for 10 ga Corten. When mated to the frame rails, 10 ga is in my opinion, more than adequate for dent resistance, and rigidity for the length involved. I've come down extremely hard once or twice, I have no dents. Avery's, I believe, are also intact, and we won't talk about how he drives. :D

Stitches along the edges of whatever material used to double with, at the roots and edges of the frame rail planes are simply a convenient way of attachment, but it's not rocket science by any stretch, and it's far from an efficent use of material and method of construction.

The key is in the marriage, so to speak. Properly bonded doubling relies and enhances the existing structure. In this case, the goal was to be as strong, or stronger than 3/16" angle, at less than half the weight.

While the angle iron guys like to do both the inside and the outside vertical planes, I worked out the deformation moments and came up with using the exact rail configuration, but only needing the outside vertical and 45 degree plane, and the bottom horizontal planes, which made screwing with the plumbing on the drivers side unnecessary.

So yes, they are not a "U", they are a "J". But they excatly match the shape in profile, and in section. The 45 degree outside lower corner isn't there for looks, and it's certainly not there because it's eaisier or cheaper to manufacture.

The MJ uses the same section and profile beginning at the lower control arm frame mount only until abeam the forward seat mountin point. From there, it transitions into a fully boxed section, tapering in two axis's, Vertically up, and horizontally out.

There's a good possibility that I may have another chance to cook up both an XJ and a MJ in the near future, if so, I'll do a better job of documenting.

--ron
 
Corten (A606 - thin sheet) weathering steel has published properties slightly better than CRS. It's a common choice in steel boatbuilding. In comparison over the years, I've found it to have, on average, alot better deformation properties than commercial quality CRS. For example, it generally takes a 1 to 1.5 times thickness inside radius to form.

Also, being in my experience a harder material, there's the abrasion upside. Welding? It's great, and heat propogation is very low... a big plus in the boat building area, alot less likely to get the "starved horse" effect. Lastly, corrosion resistance.

Just a heads up. The "U" shaped piece shown in one of the pics you found, is a tube gusset, not a frame rail piece. On the first build, I had the rear tube work mounted to the frame rail doubler, and used that piece to make the joint on each side.

--ron
 
As for the U shaped piece, I figured that out on my own. :) So is this corton stuff the same thing they build certain hiline poles out of? It rusts with a surface rust and then stops? The rust effectively seals the metal? How's it compare to CRS for cost? What size sheets is common for either? 4x8? 4x10? If I was going to purchase a 4x10 sheet of either with the intent to cut it into shaped strips to fit along the side of the frame, what would an average price be? Jeff
 
By the way Ron, if you ever feel like it, I would like to see some good pictures of how you did your single upper arm mount at the frame. I recall that it extends into the floor a bit? While you've got the camera out, you should snap a couple of the outer parts of the floor from inside the rig. I've seen a few pics showing the outside pretty well, but I'm just kind of interested in what the boatsides look like from the Inside. Jeff
 
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