Build log of my Heep.

[pthrift]

So I never get around to build logs, and even if nobody else follows this, I hope to keep it updated enough so that I at least know where I came from and such with this Heep.

Picked up a 1993 Xj back in November of 2017, just shy of 240k, 4.0 auto. Bonus points for cold AC.
Seemed rust free, mainly due to prolific oil leak from, well everywhere it seemed.

the day it came home

Goal on purchase, back up vehicle for my other high mileage DD, a Tahoe with 190k. I figured if I could ever get around to lifting it then all the better.

This makes my third Jeep, first two were wranglers, a YJ with rough country and body lift to fit 35’s (bought not built.) and then a JK on 37’s (built, but 99.9% mall crawler).


This one I’m building as cheap as possible but have it actually be capable Offroad.


Decided to drive it a while before I did anything with it, fix the little stuff. New windshield, oil leaks, etc, and see if anything else reared it’s ugly head that needed attention.


Picked up first a 3.5” lift, with RE front coils, track bar, LCA’s, and a pair of Rusty’s 3.5” full leaf packs, and some pro comp shocks. All used, but the deal couldn’t be passed up.

Started to pull stuff apart on my off days back in April. Went through standard stuck bolts, sheared off rear upper shock mount bolt... but finally had both axles free.

Replaced front oil pan gasket, rear main & valve cover gaskets while it was easy with no front axle.... how people ever do that job with a front axle under the Jeep I’ll never know.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BALTANAKT]

Man, that things a beauty. Hide the sawzall.

 

[pthrift]

Man, that things a beauty. Hide the sawzall.

Thanks, and sawzaw has already found it. Can’t be helped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Today’s fun project, trying to tap out my forward leaf spring nut. Rounded it off removing it when my leaf spring sleeve tried to come out with the bolt. Made a nifty tool to fix that issue, ground down a prybar crowbar to fit the bolt snug and not leave clearance for sleeve, and boom. Out it came. But damage was done, so hand tapping the nut, hopefully I can clean it up and get a bolt started in it & not need to cut any access holes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Oh, I also finished my rattlecan respray over the weekend. I’m super pleased with how well it turned out in color, coverage, and overall appearance. The red was in pretty rough shape. Lots of oxidation & clear coming off, and I didn’t need a lot of excuse to want to paint it anyway.

Did my best to “do it right”, with doorjambs, under hood and firewall and all, not just the exterior.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Well it’s been a while, but finally making a little headway again. Both axles back under Jeep after going to 4.56’s, and just tonight I’ve gotten 1-ton steering bolted on, just need to do an alignment when it’s daylight.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

And go figure, unless I see an issue I can’t find out here at 3am with tired eyes and no lights, the 1.5” utk 1-ton steering clears a SOLID diff cover. I never thought it would, but hadn’t addressed it yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Heavyopp]

It would be cool if the steering clears -- I like your work hours...

 

[pthrift]

It would be cool if the steering clears -- I like your work hours...

It cleared, got a little while today to mess with it and did a driveway alignment, no issues I can tell. I may have to shave a 1/16th or so from the swaybar bracket where the grease fitting grazes it. It’s probably fine but I’d rather get it out of the way than leave it.


Steering is from Ironman4x4fab, it’s the 1-ton utk kit they sell.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Today was quite eventful. Got 6/7 items checked off the list of critical items before first test drive.
Still need to relocate vacuum canister.

But it’s ready to go finally, including cut rear fender and cut-n-folded rear quarters.

Really pleased with how the rear cuts turned out, took my time, cut shallow so the cuts aren’t seen. After watching a bunch of the videos and the pic diy how-tos, it still isn’t incredibly clear how to make the cuts, just how much metal and what order, so I wound up using a sawzaw, grinder with cutoff wheel, and tin snips for the sharp 90* bends that nothing else would get into.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Then I test drove it about an hour ago. Less than 1.5 miles up to gas station.

Something doesn’t feel quite right. I catch right off I need to rebleed the brakes, pedal is too spongy.
And it’s been a couple months since I last drove it, but after going from 29’s to 33’s, and losing the muffler, I get the feeling there is a big power loss, even though I’ve also regeared to 456’s at the same time.

Long story short, I lose all rear brakes on the way home, coast into driveway, and then it feels like maybe I’ve got a broken u bolt or something, no power to pull me forward. Shift to park, awful grinding noise....

Now it’s 945pm, dark, and I’m trying to figure what may be the reason. Check driveshaft first, still thinking U bolt, nope it seems fine. But I do see a small ( 3 quarters) brake fluid leak. Shift into 4wd, to make sure I’ve not got transmission issues, I’ve got pulling power. Ok good.
No brakes. Bigger brake fluid leak, don’t immediately see which wheel it’s coming from because all 4 have been bled recently and there’s some residual on all four corners.... but the leak is big.

I lay under Jeep, looking at maybe transfer case linkage or something odd, why I’ve got nothing to rear wheels, when I realize I’ve got no rear wheel attached to the Jeep itself.

C8.25, broken C Clip or c-clip came out one, but for tonight, at least I hope so.

I just sat the tube up on jack stands and walk away. Time to call it for tonight, look at it again with fresh eyes and daylight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Overland]

That's a drag.

Looks good otherwise, I never was a big fan of red.

 

[pthrift]

That's a drag.

Looks good otherwise, I never was a big fan of red.

Same here. Probably wouldn’t have chosen the khaki color either, but the super flat made it go on ridiculously easy & should be just as easy to touch up later on down the road. In the rustoleum super flat colors you’ve only got are two shades of tan & OD green, at least that’s all that’s available locally to me anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Overland]

I've had pretty good luck with Krylon semi gloss in matching base model colors but they seem to have transitioned to semi flat which lacks the same consistency. The semi gloss blocks and polishes nicely, looks like factory paint.

I haven't tried to cover a whole vehicle, though. How many cans did it take?

 

[Overland]

Also, I'm in the process of drilling broken bolts out of a 92 4.0. Never crossed my mind until they broke, would have been much easier to replace them prior to that. Apparently some of the holes weren't tapped deep enough during manufacturing and the bolts stand a chance to break, leaving you without a passenger motor mount wherever it happens. I have two more XJs to replace them in before it happens again, aside from the one I'm drilling.

It's kind of an obscure failure, but be assured that it sucks to fix. I wheeled a 96 for at least ten years without issue, but it's next in line for new bolts.

 

[pthrift]

I've had pretty good luck with Krylon semi gloss in matching base model colors but they seem to have transitioned to semi flat which lacks the same consistency. The semi gloss blocks and polishes nicely, looks like factory paint.

I haven't tried to cover a whole vehicle, though. How many cans did it take?

Someone else asked the same thing, I’m not sure on can count. I can account for 22 cans, but I thought I bought just full 6 pack cases at Home Depot when they came in stock- that’s all my local store kept on shelf at a time- which means I should have had 18 or 24.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Also, I'm in the process of drilling broken bolts out of a 92 4.0. Never crossed my mind until they broke, would have been much easier to replace them prior to that. Apparently some of the holes weren't tapped deep enough during manufacturing and the bolts stand a chance to break, leaving you without a passenger motor mount wherever it happens. I have two more XJs to replace them in before it happens again, aside from the one I'm drilling.

It's kind of an obscure failure, but be assured that it sucks to fix. I wheeled a 96 for at least ten years without issue, but it's next in line for new bolts.

Sounds just peachy keen fun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Edit. Double tap.

 

[pthrift]

Out here today finally addressing the shaft.

Shaved down the wrong side of the cross pin that holds in the shafts. I feel like a dummy for missing it both when we milled it down & when I put it back together I should have caught it.
Live & learn.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pthrift]

Alternator went out, so I thought I’d go ahead and upgrade. 145a from a Grand Cherokee. Little (lot) of grinding on the brackets, some 1/0 wire and it’s good to go.



....edit. iOS12, iPhone xs max, I can’t get the keyboard to go away so I can post a picture, any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk