Broke my bolt extractor....help please

Easy outs can be drilled with a carbide drill, problem is that they are expensive and cant usually be found at a hardware store. Since it looks like you've tried everything and its not working for you, bring it to a mechanic. Most mechanics know their way around a broken easy out and will probably have a carbide drill, or a welder to weld a nub onto the easy out for removal.
One of the more fun things I had to remove was a broken bolt with a broken easy out with a carbide drill busted off inside of that for a customer once.

~Alex
 
what you need is a bolt extractor extractor!

Unfortunately I am pretty sure they crack if you just look at them funny.
 
tack weld that thing on, or take it to a mechanic.

Easy outs can be drilled with a carbide drill, problem is that they are expensive and cant usually be found at a hardware store. Since it looks like you've tried everything and its not working for you, bring it to a mechanic. Most mechanics know their way around a broken easy out and will probably have a carbide drill, or a welder to weld a nub onto the easy out for removal.
One of the more fun things I had to remove was a broken bolt with a broken easy out with a carbide drill busted off inside of that for a customer once.

~Alex

what you need is a bolt extractor extractor!

Unfortunately I am pretty sure they crack if you just look at them funny.
Thanks guys.
Found a local shop that's willing to do it for like 10x6pack + 5 large pizza....i'll give them a shot once i put the jeep back together.
 
I did the same exact thing when I was installed my t-case drop. I've had 3 bolts holding it on for the past year now with absolutely no issues. Of course, I do need to fix it and it's definitely not the right thing to do. I'll have to break the spot weld on the nut from inside the frame and stick in another one. But it's not going to warrant your rig un-driveable.
 
That's good to know, as in driveable.

I have a idea but now sure if it will work...
How about welding nuts over it, something like a permanent transfer case drop :huh:?
 
I wouldn't do that if it was my jeep, if the weld on the nut breaks your transmission crossmember is going to fall out.
 
On mine it took a while and a few drill bits, but I just spent lots of time drilling until I made it through. Lots of shavings on my arms, a few dulled bits and a few broken ones, but finally it went through. I then made the small holes neares those bolts a little bigger...big enough to get my finger in...and put a bolt, lock washer and nut inside.
 
On mine it took a while and a few drill bits, but I just spent lots of time drilling until I made it through. Lots of shavings on my arms, a few dulled bits and a few broken ones, but finally it went through. I then made the small holes neares those bolts a little bigger...big enough to get my finger in...and put a bolt, lock washer and nut inside.
What shaving :doh:, i've used all kind of drill bits (except diamond) from the hardware store, they just didn't even scratch it :doh:.
http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=32735

i just welded a nut/bolt to my stripped allens. welding heat normally shocks the rusted bolt and makes it come out.
Wish i could bro, it broke inside the frame.

Giving up, i'm gonna get the auto shop to do it.
Thx for all the suggestions.
 
I used to fight broken extractors in broken exhaust manifold bolts on cummins and cat engines all the time. If I broke an extractor I blew it out of the bolt with a cutting torch. The hardened extrator would melt and blow out before and surrounding metal was damaged. As a plus the heat from the torch usually made the broken bolt come right out with a new extractor.

I wouldn't recomend this to someone that has limited experience with a cutting torch though
 
I had this same problem in my 99 dodge Dakota. I drilled through a bolt and tried to used an ez out and it broke below surface. How I fixed this problem was I took a die grinder with a taper head for steel and drilled all the way through it. The hole was bigger than was supposed to be, so I tapped it and then used a helicoil for new threads. Worked perfectly
 
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you could always call your local machine shop and ask if they know of anyone who does mobile tap extracting. we have a guy here locally that will come out and he uses some kind of sonic pulse machine to literally shatter the tap or broken bolt to dust, and he can get into all kinds of tight places.
 
Alternate creative idea. Do you have a 1/2" bimetal hole saw that you can use without a guide bit? If so just drill the whole mess out & then insert a rivnut.
 
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