BPE

Baja_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bedford, IN
I got my mounting hardware today and my factory rear axle mounts are 5/8 or 3/4 in diameter, didnt measure, but I know its a little over. Same with the bar pin eliminators, 5/8 or 3/4 diameter. How are you making them work?
 
I got my mounting hardware today and my factory rear axle mounts are 5/8 or 3/4 in diameter, didnt measure, but I know its a little over. Same with the bar pin eliminators, 5/8 or 3/4 diameter. How are you making them work?

Most are 5/8" JKS makes them in 1/2" to use with the race style shocks with the heim ends.

-Dan
 
sounds like a plan. Ill just take the 5/8 JKS's to work and turn them down to 1/2 and Ill do like you said and weld some mounting tabs to the mounts.
 
true haha brain fart....

That's kind of what I was thinking :D

Now, depending on what shocks you're going to be using, I think some of the bigger name, more expensive shocks have a bigger heim, and the misalignment spacers are stepped and fit inside the heim with a 1/2" ID. I know my coil overs and bypasses are this way, but I never bothered to measure the bore of the heim.
 
Mine are Foxs and I mic'ed the ID of them and they are .500 straight bore so Im just gonna turn in down and make a bushing, be alot cheaper, quicker, easier than sending them back and exchanging them for the true 1/2 JKS BPE
 
OT but would this be considered a decent amount of droop?
l_f819a59a516f4eebb8c84e3d776183bc.jpg


How about compression?

l_200a4475f31341ce814aebd4f21fd284.jpg


Or should i look into taking away from one and giving to the other?
 
Is that compressed pic on the bumps?

A lower COG is always better for the go fast stuff. My view may be a little skewed since linking the back of mine, but My 36" tires stuff past the fender opening of the glass at full bump.

You probably don't want any more bump travel than when your leaf packs are flat. Negative arc is hard on springs. A lot of the racers let them go negative, but they're having them rebuilt/replaced fairly often.

On the travel, I usually figure out where I want the full bump to be, then figure out how I'm going to mount the longest shocks (within reason) in the compressed length space available. Then what ever droop you get, is what you get.

Hope all that makes sense.

-Dan
 
My SAWS, the 2.5" have a 5/8-1/2" misalignments and the 3.0"s have a 7/8-1/2" misalignments so your set is most likely for a 2.5" shock w/out the misalignment spacers.
 
Yes it is bump bottomed out and almost bottomed on shocks, and exhaust. I could get more up if I go to the exhaust shop and have them run it up on the floor instead of how the other retard did and have it 6" from the floor with a bend that runs parrallel with the axle right over it for 6" as well. I understand what ya are saying, but I think I'll stick where I am right now, I cant lower it until I get the money to acutally get the deaver springs. Right now I have about 10" down and 3" inch up for the rear and could only go to 5" up before my spring neg. arced. My front I didnt get the time to do my mounts like I wanted so Im only running 4" up and 4.5" down. Those are 35s, not 33s like most run.
 
I dont like dumping before axle due to fumes, Im probably going to have it either turned out in front of the right rear tire or have it ran the same as it is now but raise up
 
Thats badass, I thought about running mine somewhat like that but I figured it would crack out the fiberglass from all the vibration
 
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