Bigger contact patch? or more pressure per square inch?

Indeed...... leaving the core out of the stem can allow a fire to continue to burn inside the tire.... air will whistle in through the stem..... if the tire stays warm minutes after seating it, get the core back in..... LOL.

The nice thing about starter fluid seating.... it'll automatically air up the tire quite a bit depending on the size of the tire. I seated a pair of 44" tires on that old Blazer buggy and the tires were sitting at 9 psi after they seated. :thumbup:
 
YELLAHEEP said:
Indeed...... leaving the core out of the stem can allow a fire to continue to burn inside the tire.... air will whistle in through the stem..... if the tire stays warm minutes after seating it, get the core back in..... LOL.

The nice thing about starter fluid seating.... it'll automatically air up the tire quite a bit depending on the size of the tire. I seated a pair of 44" tires on that old Blazer buggy and the tires were sitting at 9 psi after they seated. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Got any stories that don't end up with a seated tire and 9 psi worth of air? I'm going to start experimenting with lower tire pressures and I really really really wanna try the lighter fluid trick. But I don't wanna blow my face off or need any teeth when I'm done.

What I mean to say is.. Is it at least relatively safe? Anyone know any horror stories associated with this way of resetting a bead?
 
horror stories? Yeah, using too much fluid. For a 33-35" tire a 2-second spray into the tire will be plenty. To ignite it, I use the long tube fireplace butane lighter. You know, the kind with the long tube and a clicky-trigger. Put the tip of the tube near the metal bead once lit so the bead doesn't pinch the end of the tube.... made that mistake once.

No matter how you light off a tire to seat a bead, youre going to end up with some residual PSI in the tire afterwards unless you leave the core in. On smaller tires, I've seen the tire seat, then suck in right afterwards as the air inside cools.
 
Do one in the driveway at home first. Much better to have tried it once before youre out somewhere freaking out when you don't need to be.
 
I have not checked, but, I think you are required to post a vid on youtube when you do this...
 
Youtube vids are what I watched before trying it myself. Rednecks can be educational on how NOT to do things..... :D

It's really not all that loud unless you use too much spray.
 
Last edited:
Next question;

What's a tried and true tire that hooks up in Colorado, Gentlemen?

Please note;

I do not care about highway mileage wear. These will be trail day tires only, not DD tires. If I can help it I'll save my 32" yoko's for DD's for as long as I can and probly go back down to a 31x10.50 for DD tires.
 
I agree with Mike.... but I'll also toss in the Pro Comp Muds. Cheap and sticky. Not a lot of folks will share the same sentiment, but I've had 2 sets of 35's and LOVED them.

Also had a set of Mickey Thompson MTZ tire in 35" and they worked very well too. Great in the snow. My only complaint with those was they flat-spotted easily even when aired up to 30 PSI..... Yeah, I never drove that rig enough, but it took quite a long drive to get the flat spots worked out.
 
YELLAHEEP said:
I agree with Mike.... but I'll also toss in the Pro Comp Muds. Cheap and sticky. Not a lot of folks will share the same sentiment, but I've had 2 sets of 35's and LOVED them.

Also had a set of Mickey Thompson MTZ tire in 35" and they worked very well too. Great in the snow. My only complaint with those was they flat-spotted easily even when aired up to 30 PSI..... Yeah, I never drove that rig enough, but it took quite a long drive to get the flat spots worked out.
Click to expand...

I had a set of micky thompson baja mtz 31x10.50's on a ZJ for barely a season before I sold them. What an incredible tire though, quiet on the highway, sticky, great side lugs, stiff side wall. They're expensive though.. I can imagine them flat spotting bad though, they are gummy soft. They brake like sh!t on the street when it's hot.

I never really had them too far off road unfortunately on that rig. The wheels/tires seem to have been cursed. I put them on my ZJ and my electrical gremlins came back out. I ended up retiring that rig, buying my D21 and selling those wheels and tires to a buddy.. Who literally 2 weeks later blew a head gasket on that XJ, then bought another XJ and the one with my old wheels and tires is sitting 2 houses down from my folks house in the neighborhood I grew up in. Those poor tires don't even have an oil change worth of mileage on them. I bet they're super flat spotted.

The duratrac's on my Nissan flatspotted real bad aired up to 32 PSI only after 6-8 weeks or so..

My experience with maxxis is through motocross tires and downhill tires. They're great and soft in the beginning when they're new and they seem to brake down really really fast. It's almost like the compounds are soo soft that they're ultra porous.
 
I can't find it now, but I had found an article that showed that 10.50 tires actually wrapped better around rocks and flattened out better due to the smaller starting width when aired down. It was convincing enough that I am seriously considering going to 33x10.50's when my current 33x12.50's wear out.
 
Take a small piece of 2x4. Bend it so the ends are1/2" lower than center.
now do same thing with a longer piece.

you tell me which is easier to accomplish.


realistically, tread voids and design, load rating, and which part of tire needs to flex plays more of a role than width.
also depends on how "worked in" the tires are as well. New tires suck compared to ones a season old.
 
SolarBell said:
I can't find it now, but I had found an article that showed that 10.50 tires actually wrapped better around rocks and flattened out better due to the smaller starting width when aired down. It was convincing enough that I am seriously considering going to 33x10.50's when my current 33x12.50's wear out.
Click to expand...

to obtain same contact patch area, you must air down further on a 10.50 than a 12.50.
different tires work better at different psi as well.
 
in4aride said:
Take a small piece of 2x4. Bend it so the ends are1/2" lower than center.
now do same thing with a longer piece.

you tell me which is easier to accomplish.


realistically, tread voids and design, load rating, and which part of tire needs to flex plays more of a role than width.
also depends on how "worked in" the tires are as well. New tires suck compared to ones a season old.
Click to expand...

That's interesting. I do also understand about tread voids turning into slicks when compressed. Load rating, so I would think a lower load rating would be better for wheeling.

Very different with MX tires. Season old MX tires are practically trash. regardless of tread life.

Different tires @ different PSI makes sense too because tread patterns will turn into slicks at different pressures.
 
some tires need to fold and bend for grip. Some just need to warm up.
some tires move well at 10psi. Some need 4.
some tires suck at sub 6psi.

it's all about getting what is available and affordable and learning how to make it work for you.
 
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