Battery or Alt?

[CharlesS]

The dirty battery connections would definitely have an impact on if or how well the system would charge/operate; although by now your battery would certainly need to be replaced due to sulfication even if the alternator tests good.
The alternator does not have a voltage regulator persay; the PCM controls the rate of charge thru the field source and sensor wiring that is why I suggested earlier to check those connections.

 

[Mudshack]

So what does PCM stand for? And how do I fix it? If it is the regulator that is going, do I not have to replace the alternator? Hate to fork out $125 for an Alternator and $70 for a battery to find that I haven't fixed the issue.

 

[CharlesS]

If the load tester indicates that the voltage regulator is bad and the connections to the alternator are clean and tight and the battery cables are good, then it's probably one of the Diodes inside the alternator that converts from AC-DC; which means you need to replace the alternator.

 

[Mudshack]

Oh... OK. Thanks.

 

[sheffeyva]

Or if you have a multimeter you can just check at the battery. With it off hopefully your close to 12 volts then turn it on and see if it reads more than 12 volts. I think you want as close to 14 volts as possible. My guess is running you are going to see the numbers dwindle away until it dies!

 

[Glenn B]

To test the alternator, they are going to want it off the car.

SOBI, Tom. Autozone will test it on the vehicle as well. :thumbup: