Ball joint removal ? Stud is spinning w/nut still attached

[Redsnake]

This is actually on my wives '03 KJ/Libby... so thought I'd ask here.

Replacing the Struts this past weekend the Haynes manual says you must detach the lower control arm ball joint in order to get the Strut assembly out, however after working on the drivers' side first I discovered afterwards that is not necessary. However, when trying to remove the retaining nut off the lower ball joint as the nut was almost all the way off, the stem/stud (not sure what you call it) started to rotate as well. Now I can't get the nut off, or tightened back on. It appears that when Chrysler did the recall several years back to replace the OE lower Ball joints... the tech cross-threaded the nut on. (insert multiple cuss and swear words here... )

So my question is, is there anyway to secure that stem/stud so I can snug the balljoint back or am I hosed and in need of a ball joint replacement? What would cause that stem to rotate like that? I guess I've never replaced a worn balljoint before so I'm not sure. I understand what they do and why they could go bad, but not sure about this.

I skipped loosening the ball joint on the passenger side and the strut came out and went back in peace of cake... guess you live and learn by example.

Any suggestions or links that do give decent instruction are appreciated. I've searche Youtube and LostKJ but not found anything on those sights for help.

Thanks,

 

[yossarian19]

The nut isn't necessarily cross threaded.
What happens is that the threaded part of the ball joint is drawing a conical wedge down into the control arm, with a ball (the ball joint ) captive in a fixture.

Once the friction between the nut & threaded stud section is greater than the taper & ball in their housings, the ball joint spins instead of the nut. It's fairly common with this type of joint.

The solution is normally one or more of the following
1. Air tools. Use a feather touch / pulsing on the trigger. Keeping the gun in reverse "off" mode, pull the trigger & release several times in rapid succession. Normally this will do it.
2. Weight / load the taper. Put a jack under the control arm or use a pry bar to somehow increase pressure on the taper, which will increase the friction there. Hopefully loading the taper increases the friction to where the nut will spin first.
3. Chem spray to decrease nut friction.

Other than that... I don't know. I am unfamiliar with the KJ but I suspect yuo could (slowly, carefully) drive it to a mechanic or have it towed if you are unable to get it done at home.

 

[Redsnake]

Thanks for the suggestions. I don't think the ball joint that's currently on the KJ is bad... never had any play and I actually left the nut partially engaged/threaded to protect the threads, then used my ball-joint tool and busted the ball-joint free, then when I loosened the tool the nut would just spin and not come free.

You've given me some good ideas to try. I just need to get the nut snugged back up on the threads and keep the lower control arm from falling off. I have an air gun so perhaps I'm in luck...

Thx for the ideas!!

 

[MAY POP]

Put the weight of the vehicle on the control arm to reseat the ball joint wedge. Tap on the area that the wedge-bolt goes into. Tighten the nut to lock the bolt then take the nut off. Do not hit the bolt to remove it. Use a tie rod separator.

 

[oldcancer]

i usually have someone apply pressure with a large prybar whilst using an impact gun on the nut

this is substantially easier with access to a hoist, thought it can be done in a driveway......carefully

EDIT: this would be what i do with regards to the ball joint on the tie rod end, just to clarify that, not sure which ones everyone else is referring to

(disclaimer: try this at your own risk, if you break something, i will not be held responsible as you did so on your own free will)

 

[Redsnake]

Thanks again all. I'm actually trying to tighten the nut back on the lower control arm ball joint that I loosened in order to change out the front Strut/Coil spring. I'll post back on the results when I can get some free time to work on it and get away f/the office ... :\

 

[GrimmJeeper]

putting a jack under it to force the taper into the hole has always worked for me.

 

[jloewenheim]

A pry bar between the knuckle and the housing will cause the binding force needed.

 

[Gary Briggs]

Vise grips

 

[yossarian19]

Just a note - Jloewenheim, Gary - this is called a thread resurrection. The thread was "dead" because nobody had posted in it since 2011. You can see, right above the username of the last post in a thread, the date of that post. Some folks don't much appreciate thread resurrections (I don't care) because it can clutter the list of active threads.
I figure... you found the thread because you were looking for something similar, probably, and now you've added helpful information for the next guy.
It seems generally frowned upon, though.

 

[Talyn]

putting a jack under it to force the taper into the hole has always worked for me.

this

oh FFS.. didn't realize the thread age.

 

[Redsnake]

Thanks guys... I totally forgot about this thread.

BTW... I think I used a pry-bar or jack to get this one back together.

 

[Gary Briggs]

Just a note - Jloewenheim, Gary - this is called a thread resurrection. The thread was "dead" because nobody had posted in it since 2011. You can see, right above the username of the last post in a thread, the date of that post. Some folks don't much appreciate thread resurrections (I don't care) because it can clutter the list of active threads.
I figure... you found the thread because you were looking for something similar, probably, and now you've added helpful information for the next guy.
It seems generally frowned upon, though.

Thank you Forum Sheriff, since were on the subject if somebody bumps a old thread with useful info wouldn't it then become active again?

 

[kastein]

Thank you Forum Sheriff, since were on the subject if somebody bumps a old thread with useful info wouldn't it then become active again?

chill, dude, he was being nice about it.


I usually reseat the taper as much as I can with a deadblow or use a jack like GrimmJeeper said.

Also here's how to break balljoint tapers free without having to put the nut back on and risk ending up in this predicament (at least until you try and tighten the balljoint nut again reassembling the thing.)



Don't use this on Subaru steering knuckles (reportedly they're soft enough that it causes issues deforming the taper bore) or cast aluminum parts, but it works great on cast iron/steel.

 

[yossarian19]

Thank you Forum Sheriff

Yeah, it's been studied and people tend to take things super negatively via internet communication. I don't blame you for taking it like I'm being a dick.
Just trust me on this one - I was going off of you & the other guy's low post counts and thinking "Somebody is going to be a dick about it, why don't I try and save them some trouble by kindly explaining it".
Oh, well.
Hopefully we all know how to deal with stubborn tapered-joint nuts now.