Bad vibrations and noise after replacing unit bearing.

Khary23

NAXJA Forum User
I replaced the drivers side unit bearing two weeks ago, but have only been driving around the city. I got on the highway to go to MA today and as soon as I got close to 50mph I noticed a really bad vibration accompanied by a loud droning. The vibration and noise both are speed dependent. I also noticed that the vibrations get less severe when going around a left hand curve, and louder when turning to the right. I tried to torque everything to spec, but my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs so I torqued the axle nut to 150 then tightened it some more.
I wanted to ask what could be causing the vibrations and how much damage can I possibly be doing by continuing to drive it.
I am thinking that maybe the axle is not seated properly or maybe the axle U-joint is bad.

Also I used this method to get the bearing off the knuckle
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm

thanks in advance
 
first, I gotta ask why you replaced the unit bearing. Noise? vibration? And, why just the driver's side and not both (if one is bad, the other is also bad or soon will be).

If you didn't have noise/vibration before changing, then it must be something you did, right? I'd make sure the unit bearing is properly seated in the knuckle, make sure the brake caliper is on correctly, and re-check the torque of the axle nut.
 
Thanks for the reply

first, I gotta ask why you replaced the unit bearing. Noise? vibration? And, why just the driver's side and not both (if one is bad, the other is also bad or soon will be).

I replaced it because it was howling like a banshee

I am out of town and wont be able to check it until I get back. Is it a safety problem? If so I can try and find a shop here.
 
It's very possible you damaged the seal. Did you take the axle out of the housing while you had the unit bearing off to inspect the u joint? Could have torn the seal when putting the axle back in but a leaking tube seal isnt going to cause vibs or noise. I would start by making sure I seated the rim correctly. Sounds silly but sometimes over looked when putting the finishing touches on a project.
 
If you pulled the axle, fluid is likely...even probable, but not the end of the world. With the axle pulled, some fluid would leak past the seal and eventually find it's way past the end of the axle tube. Not a big issue as long as not too much is lost, and wouldn't be cause of noise/vibration.

I'm still back at unit bearing seating into the knuckle...double check that. Tighten the three bolts from the back evenly to suck it in straight.
 
Took it to a shop here on the vineyard and they said it was little over torqued so they Re torqued it . They also said the ball joints are gone. Could replacing the bearing have made the ball joint problem more noticeable
 
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"I axle came out slightly when I was pulling the bearing out. I also could not get that rubber boot thing to seat properly when re installing."

I'm not sure about the "rubber boot thing". On my XJ, there is no rubber boot. So, I'm wondering what you're talking about. Does your Jeep have a CV (sealed) axle u-joint...like a ZJ? In the XJ there is only an axle seal inside the diff/axle tube..the end of the tube is open except for a plastic mud slinger.

Yea, worn ball joints will cause problems, but shouldn't show up only when you replace the unit bearing...
 
if you demo'd the seal and ALL the fluid came out you would have some problems but that doesn't seem that likely.

Could it be something as simple as the bearing seating? maybe brake hardware?

You say fluid - if it reeks of sulfur it's gear oil. If not could be brake fluid or something else.

Lots of troubleshooting type posts on this forum

Regarding ball joints - every Brake & Steer place I have ever gone to in a pinch to get something fixed have told me I needed ball joints for any vehicle I have ever owned. I think it's part of the training.
 
The axle nut helps set the preload on the unit bearing. You DO want to use a torque wrench. If you are way out of whack it can cause premature failure.
It is very easy to surpasse 175ft/lb with a breaker bar.
 
jack it up, remove the wheel, and free spin it by hand. Would be good idea to remove caliper so as not to have any possibility of rotor-pad drag
 
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