mcantar18c said:
Or you can unbolt the trans from the bellhousing instead of the block which will make it a helluva lot easier to work with, then just pop off the bellhousing.
Obviously Mason has never removed a BA 10 or AX 15 from an XJ/MJ.....
The bellhousing bolts to the gear box INSIDE the bellhousing, it can't be removed from the bellhousing with it bolted to the engine.
mcantar18c said:
Remove the t-case and toss it aside. Set a jack under the trans so its kinda holding it. Remove the x-member.
The t-case may be hard, if not impossible to remove from the transmission without first removing the crossmember and trans mount. The bottom nut on the t-case is in many applications covered by the trans mount - but not all.
First order of business...... loosen the exhaust nuts on the collar that holds the down pipe to the header. This way you won't risk cracking the header when the engine drops backward.
Remove the driveshafts
Drain the transmission and t-case of fluids
Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder
Remove center console/shifter boot. Unscrew the insulating rubber boot from the floor, then pull up and remove the round rubber boot on the shifter shaft. Remove 3 bolts holding the shifter in the trans. Pull straight up on the shifter to remove and set aside.
Put a jack under the center of the transmission gear box. Jack it up to remove just a little weight off the trans mount.
Remove 4 nuts holding the trans mount to the crossmember (4 holes at the bottom center of the trans crossmember)
The Comanche crossmember is secured with 4 bolts/nuts per side (XJ only 2 per side) remove those and set crossmember aside.
Remove the trans mount and bracketry. Should be 2 large bolts that screw into the tail end of the transmission. It will likely also be attached to a bushing mount for the exhaust, but not a big deal, just let the bracket drop and twist/pull it away from the exhaust mount.
Remove/un-clip the breather tube and wiring at the connectors that go to the t-case and transmission.
Using a large screwdriver/prybar, separate the linkage rod that goes between the t-case shifter linkage and the t-case. Should just pry out with a little effort.
Then remove the 6 nuts around the tail end that hold the t-case to the transmission. The t-case will generally hold itself in place when all the nuts are off and you may get some fluid dripping when it separates - this is normal. Set the t-case aside.
Lower the jack and allow the trans and engine to rock back and down but keep some weight on the jack. Give yourself enough room to see up along the top of the bellhousing to get to the top bellhousing bolts.
Get a very long extension or several extensions and a universal joint at the end for your socket/ratchet to get to those top bellhousing bolts. Depending on the year, it may have the Torx head bolts, they're size "E-12" torx socket.
Then remove the rest of the bolts holding the inspection cover on the front/lower part of the bellhousing. And then the rest of the bellhousing bolts.
The BA10 transmission is a real lightweight - about 60-70 lbs at most. At this point you can remove the floor jack and just get under the trans. I generally just yank it straight back and drop it onto my chest, then roll it off to one side. But, if you're a little guy....
...... you may want to have a buddy help you use the floor jack or a trans jack - one of you help it come loose and hold it steady on the jack, the other to guide and pull/push the jack.
To install the other trans, just reverse the process, however, installing it is a bit more difficult as trying to get the input shaft alligned through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing can be a bit frustrating. If you're replacing the clutch and pressure plate at this time, the kit should come with an alignment tool. At this time, it's also best to go ahead and replace the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing.
Hope this helps. :thumbup:
