AW4 Transmission Specs

atomicboy235

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ballard WA
Hi all,

I am interested in finding some rather deep specs on the AW4 transmission. Here is the long and short of where I'm headed.

I'm looking at a diesel electric conversion for my Jeep. YES I AM COMPLETELY NUTZ!

So here is what I know so far. I have an 89 XJ mostly run on computers. I can deal with that since it isn't to hard to program something like a microcontroller to take that input/output and monkey with it. That is the rub! I need to know what engineering specs are available. Can I make a momentary two point rocker switch that does up/down shift?

I need some more information about the shift mechanism. Is it all electronic? I know it's tied into the accelerator pedal at some point. It seems to be hydraulic at some level. I just don't know where to begin.

I'm interested in doing a full AC electric motor conversion. 50-75HP 3 phase electric. I'm interested in controller sequences, etc... Is there a solenoid somewhere that controls things?

I know this post is vague and any steering in the right direction is appreciated.
Thanks
 
I had a whole sheitz-ton of info written out about why a diesel to AW4 just doesnt make sense, but I forgot to read the small word of electric in your post.

Here is some good reading about the AW4:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/aw4.htm

The shifting is controlled by two solenoids, the four gears are 00,01,10,11 in no particular order. BrettM on NAXJA makes and sells a kit (or used to at least) and I believe one of our sponsors is AW4 shifting or some such entity. They two may be one in the same.

Let us know if you need more info, I too will be working on a very small Skoda truck in the near future with a 17hp to 55 peak hp electric DC motor, full battery power at the moment, but I might have a diesel generator set up to help with long distances but I really havent looked into much yet.

Subscribed.
 
If you are going with a three phase electric, why do you even need a transmission? With a constant torque motor drive, gearing less than 1:1 to the axle is not needed. No transmissions in Trains, just direct drive.
 
If you are going with a three phase electric, why do you even need a transmission? With a constant torque motor drive, gearing less than 1:1 to the axle is not needed. No transmissions in Trains, just direct drive.

This does make sense. Kind of my thought process as well. BUT if you need more info on the trans selenoids and stuff im sure Rory from Radesigns can help you out.
 
This does make sense. Kind of my thought process as well. BUT if you need more info on the trans selenoids and stuff im sure Rory from Radesigns can help you out.

Thanks,
I think I can help. Three wires it really is that simple. I've talked to an XJ owner who was planning on a Mercedes diesel swap, if you like desiels I say go for it.
 
If you are going with a three phase electric, why do you even need a transmission? With a constant torque motor drive, gearing less than 1:1 to the axle is not needed. No transmissions in Trains, just direct drive.


Torque peak... 0RPM
=D
 
Three phase electric can and should be ran in "constant horsepower" mode. The voltage to the motor is constant, you just change the frequency. Every motor driver I have ever worked with (45 years experience...) worked in this fashion. Most notably, conveyor systems have to be able to start up under a full load. Also, it helps to hold down the heat generated in the motor.

For years, Electric Locomotives used DC motors and had heat/reliability/longevity problems as a result. In the past few years they have finally woke up to what the Europeans have nbeen doin since the dawn of time. Three Phase AC systems. You change direction of the motor by swapping any two of the phases, i.e. ABC phasing becomes ACB and the motor rotates in the opposite direction.

Again, I would NOT run a transmission. Bolt the motor to the TC and be done. Will take a lot of weight off and provide room for the generator.

Shop around for the Motor Driver. Make sure it is rated for at least 150% of your anticipated maximum current draw. This is to hold down the heat in the driver. Heat will be your enemy. Cooks electronics faster than anything else. A large number of drivers can use a simple pot to control the output along with a direction switch (contactor control, open is foward, closed is reverse) and there will be plenty of room in the bay.

Just my .02 from decades as a Senior Field Engineer, now retired...
 
Seriously thanks guys. I am still researching this project and I know from experience with other projects that it's a long process, lots of money and heartache. That all being said I have been doing the initial calculations and it can be done. Here is a quick link to share just for some further info on electric conversions. This guy did straight DC and batteries.

http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/home.php
 
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