AW4 transmission rubber oil pan gasket

I purchased a gasket from Napa - some sort of rubber. I've pulled the pan and reinstalled it w/o issue w/ the gasket. I installed it "dry".

I probably will install a rubber one dry perhaps with some sealant between pan and gasket similar to the previous one.

ATP stated their RG-31 is not a reusable gasket. Probably for a reason such as the gasket cannot be guaranteed to be reused again in the event the gasket fails, develops small leaks, etc.

So you can reuse a gasket but would not be the same as a reusable type, which might cost around ~$20.00 +/-.
 
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Rockauto listed the ATP gasket wrong they show rubber steel. Too bad it didn't end up being something like a fel-pro permadry.
 
Rockauto listed the ATP gasket wrong they show rubber steel. Too bad it didn't end up being something like a fel-pro permadry.

I think they may come with different types of fibers .. some may use metal.

The Wix cork gasket did not like the copper ATV gasket maker, wrong sort of application for the ATV.
 
I think they may come with different types of fibers .. some may use metal.

The Wix cork gasket did not like the copper ATV gasket maker, wrong sort of application for the ATV.


The TDS shows copper ATV is suppose to work as a gasket dressing using specific instructions for the installation.

If the instructions are not followed closely some of the products might not work as expected and/or there may be some sort of incompatibility with gasket (using different types and quality of gasket material(s)) some of which are recommended to be installed dry for best results.
 
This is the one i use, tds say it works with almost anything but bleach...

Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant 80063

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
PermatexÒ High TackÔ Gasket Sealant is a yellow colored
viscous liquid with a characteristic solvent odor which is a
blend of elastomers and resins that is brushable and dries
quickly to a highly tacky film. It is designed to seal or bond
rubber, cork, felt, paper and metal gaskets. It seals threaded
hose connections, waterproofs and protects electrical
terminals and wiring
PRODUCT BENEFITS
• Applies easily
• Fast drying
• Prevents seizing
• Assures correct gasket alignment
• Color coded for uniform application
• Allows easily disassembly
• Resists most automotive and industrial fluids
• Temperature Range - 65ºF to +500ºF
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Gaskets
• Threaded connections
• Hose connections
• Weatherstripping
• Waterproofing for electrical terminals, spark plugs and
wires
• Rear axle assembly
• Tubeless tire beads
• Differential assemblies
• Filter line connections
• Terminal protector

http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...ts/permatex--high-tack--gasket-sealant-detail
 
The High Tack I can remember using a few times long ago I think it is a better all around sealant, also shows to resist gasoline, can be used with electrical connections, etc. ...

There is also Permatex Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant which has been around a while .. can be used with most any gasket.

Chemical / Solvent Resistance The product retains effective properties in contact with water, ethylene glycol, gasoline, motor oil, transmission fluid and sea water.

Here are some products Permatex recommended ..

Rubber Gaskets – 85409 – Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant & dressing. Cork Gaskets, Fiber Gaskets
Engine Oil - 82194 – Ultra Grey
Transmission Oil – 81182 – Gear Oil RTV Sealant

Some of the sealants, dressings & gasket makers like the Ultra Copper if applied incorrectly will soften up the gasket so it can't be torqued down, sometimes destroying the gasket.
 
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The API gasket looks ok. Appears to be made from rubber and other fibers for added strength.

Installed easily using high tack on both sides of the gasket. Torque down just right with any bulging and splitting of the gasket.

Any previously installed High Tack can be removed using lacquer thinner.
 
ehhhhh, I used an ATP gasket on one.

If I did it again I would just use red RTV like the factory did. Works fine, fits any shape.

Just use a brass wire wheel to take the RTV off the pan (brass won't chew up the surface like steel will) and a razor to take it off the tranny, swab+hose out the pan with solvent, clean off the magnet, and stick it back on there with a reasonable RTV bead.
 
ehhhhh, I used an ATP gasket on one.

If I did it again I would just use red RTV like the factory did. Works fine, fits any shape.

Just use a brass wire wheel to take the RTV off the pan (brass won't chew up the surface like steel will) and a razor to take it off the tranny, swab+hose out the pan with solvent, clean off the magnet, and stick it back on there with a reasonable RTV bead.

The flange on the transmission has impregnated rust and corrosion near the edge of the flanges ... the metal of the flanges appear to be somewhat stained and tarnished.

The Jeep was manufactured for the Canadian market and stayed for a long time in wet areas that become very cold seasonally. So there is abnormal rust and corrosion in some areas throughout the vehicle.

A very sharp puddy knife was used to clean the flange on the transmission. In order to clean the entire width of the flange on the transmission including near the edge, would require a very fine emery or a similar type abrasive.

The original OEM part is a Chrysler sealant, no longer available. Sometimes a thin piece of plastic with sealant applied to both sides was used for installation purposes ...

Using only a sealant such as high tack or a gasket maker should also work, only if applied correctly on clean surfaces and allowed to setup properly.

I prefer to first install a sealant to a gasket, then torque down the pan with the gasket and sealant rather than using a dry gasket or sealant only .. which are designed to be installed to flanges that are in a condition similar to when new.

The API gasket is thinner and appears to be stronger than a cork gasket, should help achieve torquing the pan and bolts to the transmission ... especially if there are any imperfections on the either of the flanges.
 
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ehhhhh, I used an ATP gasket on one.

If I did it again I would just use red RTV like the factory did. Works fine, fits any shape.

Just use a brass wire wheel to take the RTV off the pan (brass won't chew up the surface like steel will) and a razor to take it off the tranny, swab+hose out the pan with solvent, clean off the magnet, and stick it back on there with a reasonable RTV bead.

I haven't worked with RTV much, only a little ... From what I understand "room temperature vulcanization" works best if the metal surfaces are able to be cleaned and prepared well enough to meet certain requirements.

RTV products need to react with air humidity in order to harden and vulcanize. When applied reaction to air humidity produces an acetic acid that cures the RTV from the outside inward

Some require to dry one hour prior to torquing ... then allowed to setup overnight and re torque again.

Applying too much or too little can produce poor results.

RTVs have many types and qualities ... some are designed for more specific applications, with differences in resistance to certain types of chemicals. One RTV may work best for engines while another is designed for transmissions and ATF.

I think Chrysler has similar types of RTV products for automotive use, as there is a Chrysler RTV-ATF.
 
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