- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
simple answer is that the upper hose and the water outlet should be the same temp. once it reaches operating temperature.
Another overheating issue-unique-can't find post relating to this issue
- Thread starter Stuckinca1
- Start date
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
When shooting with a IR gun, try to focus on the heater core outlet, it's the only thing that flows all the time(on late model jeeps). It's basically impossible to know when the t-stat is open and by how much. Shooting hoses is a joke since rubber is a semi-insulator, with a all AL rad shoot the tanks.
Thats what the separate hole in the head at the t-stat housing does.
Thats what the separate hole in the head at the t-stat housing does.
Last edited:
Stuckinca1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Azusa
Doesn't the heater core outlet hose come after the t stat on the t stat housing?
- Location
- Waukegan, IL
No. It bypasses the t-stat at the water outlet. Hence the funky shaped hole in the gasket.
Stuckinca1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Azusa
Pressure tested coolant system- good
Head gasket tested with dye tester- good. Stayed blue
Removed t stat, re tested head gasket- good
Still spikes
Head gasket tested with dye tester- good. Stayed blue
Removed t stat, re tested head gasket- good
Still spikes
TerraFirma
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Casper, WY
Mine was doing the same thing. Put in a 180 thermostat, aftermarket temp switch and made the secondary fan kick on @ 170. I also put some vents in the hood to get built up heat out. No problems since. I'm pushing around 35s in 95+ heat with AC on.
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Stuckinca1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Azusa
On another forum everyone is telling me that I should go back to the original clutch fan with electric fan set up. Is anyone running the electric fan set up that's not having issues?
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Have you looked into fans with a higher cfm?
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
My Griffin(wide 1 row core) came set-up for only 2 fans but they are advertised as a higher cfm. I still used and prefer the stock redundantcy!
For 16yrs it ran at 210* and now it runs at 205*.
For 16yrs it ran at 210* and now it runs at 205*.
Last edited:
Stuckinca1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Azusa
My Griffin(wide 1 row core) came set-up for only 2 fans but they are advertised as a higher cfm. I still used and prefer the stock redundantcy!
For 16yrs it ran at 210* and now it runs at 205*.
So you ditched that set up at continued to run stock?
Or your running this now with only 5 degree difference?
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Yeah, I didn't need that shroud but they sent one anyway. I'm using a all factory mech/elec system. This is still working better under extreme loads(I tow a 3K trailer) without the rise in temps,it's hot here!
Stuckinca1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Azusa
See that's what I thought about doing. Leaving the 2 row al and going back to the factory clutch fan/ electric fan combo
I don't know what G05 means in your first post or how long you had the champion & 2 fan setup before problems arose, but I had two champion american eagle 2 big row radiators fail at the end tanks where they weren't properly welded. Both failed and started steaming, then spraying in less than a year. Champion is garbage.
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