Alignment Question

[Matthew Currie]

Ok so I checked a few more things and then I noticed that my lower steering column shaft has a lot of play in it. I also noticed that I have play now in my spindles or something. I can now move the tires up and down like I would be checking for ball joints and all that and the only thing that moves is the spindles and checked my axle nuts and there tight and checked the 3 bolts that hold the spindle to the knuckle. It isnt very much movement but will that cause all my problems?

Almost certainly. It sounds like bad bearings, and even a little movement there will make your alignment inconsistent. It will tend to be more or less on center when you align it, but will toe out when you drive.

Play in the steering column shaft will make for poor steering control, but should not affect alignment. However, you really must track down where the play is, and get it fixed. The column shaft has a rubber "rag joint" at the top, and a plain universal at the bottom, and both can wear. The steering gear itself can wear, and develop play, especially at the output shaft. If you get someone to move the wheel while you look underneath, check for side play in the output shaft of the box. That's a common problem. A little there will not kill you but it will contribute to poor steering and a numbness on center that can make straight travel a challenge.

There are many threads here somewhere on how to get those spindles off if they're rusted on, including a very clever trick for using a long wrench socket and the power steering to push on a bolt head. Look around, and if you find nothing, post back. If the spindle is not rusted into the knuckle, the rest of the job is easy.

 

[Gnarlyrider27]

Ok so do you know if the spindles off a 90 xj 4x4 work on my 92? Because if so then I wont have to spend much money on getting my 92 fixed. So far the only money I will have to put into it if the parts from the 90 will work is just seals and stuff like that then tires.

 

[Gnarlyrider27]

Well I got the lower steering column shaft out and took pictures of it but wont let me put them on here but to me it looks to be very worn and my dad told me to just put it back in the tack weld it so there is no play. Dont wanna do that. I am not sure about this piece so I can email the pictures if anyone know can tell me if its bad or not. Dont have to much cash right now to go spend over 100 bucks for a new one.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Ok so do you know if the spindles off a 90 xj 4x4 work on my 92? Because if so then I wont have to spend much money on getting my 92 fixed. So far the only money I will have to put into it if the parts from the 90 will work is just seals and stuff like that then tires.

Probably not. The brake design changed at just about that time, and with it the rotors were changed from all-cast to composite. The dimensions are slightly different and the brake calipers will not center. I'm pretty sure the 92 has the later style rotors, but it's worth a careful measurement if you can do it. I think, though I'm not a full hundred percent sure, that if you use the earlier hubs with the earlier rotors, it will work. I would not bother with this unless the donor parts are really known to be good, considering the labor involved. But doing this job a second time is less arduous, especially if you liberally coat the hub to knuckle joint with anti-seize, so it's your call as to time and effort.

I would not tack weld a steering shaft. I don't know what part on yours is worn, but it certainly needs the universal joints at both ends to be working, and for safety, the collapsible steering should not be bypassed. The end which joins the steering gear has a clamping bolt that also sits in a groove on the steering gear shaft, so that it can never come apart with the bolt in. That should be tight and seated properly. The top end also has a clamping bolt that should be good and tight. If it is the sliding part that is loose, it almost certainly means that someone before you messed it up. The telescoping joint before 1997 is not meant to move until something breaks, and it is impossible to replace on that vintage without loosening and moving the steering gear. If someone replaced the steering gear or the shaft and did not know this, they might have broken the joint putting it back together. If I were you I would go to a junkyard and look for a better one before messing with the old one. And make sure it is put together right this time.

 

[Gnarlyrider27]

Well I can send you my email and send you the pictures of it. Because with my steering wheel locked I can push on my tires and move them about 2inches left to right. Thats how much play I have.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Well I can send you my email and send you the pictures of it. Because with my steering wheel locked I can push on my tires and move them about 2inches left to right. Thats how much play I have.

That is definitely not good. Email is a gamble at the moment but feel free. My address is my last name here without capitals, at Shoreham, dot net. If it's possible, I might be able to repost your picture here. I use a free service called "imageshack" which last time I tried it still worked, but it's a little iffy at times. I can try, though.

A little play may be all right, especially with steering locked off center. The steering box is tighter on center than off. But that's too much.

I'm off to a boring meeting tonight, but I should have time to check email later.

 

[Gnarlyrider27]

Ok well turns out just one of my tie rod ends wasnt adjusted right. It was the outer one on the driver side. Popped it off the knuckle and adjusted it out and did a test drive and still need spindles/ hubs and a steering box or at least rebuild mine cause its leaking bad then if I can find Sway Bar Extended End Links for cheap then should be almost donw besides 2 tires and DMV.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Here (if I get it right) are the images Gnarlyrider sent me of his steering column. He explains that the top joint is loose, presumably the rubber having deteriorated. I advise a visit to the junkyard rather than welding, because it's my impression that the rubber portion of the upper joint is necessary. If others have other opinions, here's the place.....

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/columnfirst.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/columnsecond.jpg/

For some reason I couldn't get the images to open directly. I swear it changes every time I do it, but the links will bring them up.

 

[Gnarlyrider27]

Well I should be getting the 90 parts jeep this weekend. She had to replace alot of the parts due to a fender bender she was in 4 years ago. She was the one that bought my old 92 xj from me. But she says that she replaced about 90% of the steering parts. Has alot of new parts on it so hoping I can use a lot of the parts on my new 92 lol. But hoping her steering shaft is in better shape then mine.

 

[alfman]

A 90 XJ unit bearing should be the same as your 92. I have an 87 & a 90 which are different. 89 & earlier are the same & 90 to 95ish are the same.

 

[Gnarlyrider27]

Ok ya when I get the jeep to my house I will double check it

 

[Matthew Currie]

I wasn't sure about the exact time of switchover, so it sounds good that someone else knows. The steering shafts should switch right over, because steering gear and columns are the same for those years. Remember, please, that to do this right you must loosen and move the steering box. A poor design, about a half inch too little space to shoehorn that column in without damaging the slip joint.