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AK to HI engine code every new part gets worse

Have you ever come across a tank that had floating crap in it?

My older brother told me ages ago to keep the gas tanks at least 1/2-1/4 full to avoid fuel filter and pump problems. He mentioned problems with floating crap. Some plastic has a lower density than gasoline, and floats. Also the gasoline acts a coolant to the pump motor, so running the gas tank too low shortens motor life.

In 39 years I have never, ever had to replace a fuel pump in the tank or fuel tank filter. I had 2 renix fuel pumps quit on me, but I fixed them with cleaning the power and ground contacts 3-4 years ago. 279,000 on the 87.

I did have one tank sanblasted inside and out, and the swiss cheese metal remains elastomer coated to form a poly tank replacement (78 dodge SW with nearly 500,000 miles on the V8), since the vehicle was so old there were no tank replacements available. But that was a mechanical pump that ran off the Cam, carburetor.....

In the industrial solvent, fuel tank world, bulk tanks I have seen floaters too.
 
My older brother told me ages ago to keep the gas tanks at least 1/2-1/4 full to avoid fuel filter and pump problems. He mentioned problems with floating crap. Some plastic has a lower density than gasoline, and floats. Also the gasoline acts a coolant to the pump motor, so running the gas tank too low shortens motor life.

In 39 years I have never, ever had to replace a fuel pump in the tank or fuel tank filter. I had 2 renix fuel pumps quit on me, but I fixed them with cleaning the power and ground contacts 3-4 years ago. 279,000 on the 87.

I did have one tank sanblasted inside and out, and the swiss cheese metal remains elastomer coated to form a poly tank replacement (78 dodge SW with nearly 500,000 miles on the V8), since the vehicle was so old there were no tank replacements available. But that was a mechanical pump that ran off the Cam, carburetor.....

In the industrial solvent, fuel tank world, bulk tanks I have seen floaters too.
I guess the coolant ability of the gas makes a lot of sense. I was a broke college student for a looong time, so my tanks were never over 3/4 full, and more often than not I was running on a 1/4 tank.
For the last 2 years with my 96 the tank has been weeping at the seam, so I can only fill it half way. I'm swapping tanks soon, I'll be interested to see if there's any 'crap' in there. It's certainly possible, as there's a downstream fuel filter.
 
Got my injectors today! Soon as I get cleared from work these bad boys are going in.
 
Have you ever come across a tank that had floating crap in it?

Yes, I have seen fuel tanks with floating debris in them MANY TIMES.

However, I have never actually found feces in a fuel tank, but I am still young enough that it may come to pass....
 
Hahahaha I was waiting for the poop joke to come out.

Got the new injectors in and it's running like a new car. Idle is sticking high if I push the RPMs up when it's parked. Reset the computer but still getting the P0123 code. Thinking I picked up a faulty sensor. Gonna grab one from the stealership this weekend. Damn these fuel injectors made a difference. My car doesn't feel like its choking anymore.
 
:cheers:

Check the ground and ECU input voltage to the TPS first. While doing that wiggle the wiring harness to see if the problem is a bad ground or short in the wiring harness before you throw money at the stealership!!! That 0123 code could be the TPS, ECU or the wiring, or ground. While doing that, see if the TPS output voltage returns to the idle setting all the time, or not. All you need is digital multi meter, about $10.
 
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Re: Re: AK to HI engine code every new part gets worse

Hahahaha I was waiting for the poop joke to come out.

Got the new injectors in and it's running like a new car. Idle is sticking high if I push the RPMs up when it's parked. Reset the computer but still getting the P0123 code. Thinking I picked up a faulty sensor. Gonna grab one from the stealership this weekend. Damn these fuel injectors made a difference. My car doesn't feel like its choking anymore.

I am so glad to hear that! Wow. Amazing how you went from a bazillion problems to one with a simple part. Can you get your money refunded on the TPS? P0123 is "throttle position sensor voltage high" as discussed earlier, and the fact your jeep is running good kinda points to the TPS being faulty I guess.
 
I am so glad to hear that! Wow. Amazing how you went from a bazillion problems to one with a simple part. Can you get your money refunded on the TPS? P0123 is "throttle position sensor voltage high" as discussed earlier, and the fact your jeep is running good kinda points to the TPS being faulty I guess.

Actually high voltage could be a shorted wire in the harness or bad ECU too.
 
Found a trick for the high idle. It was getting above 1500 so I unplugged the MAP sensor while it was running. About 20 seconds she stalled. Plugged it back in and idle is normal. Gonna run the tests for the TPS and ECU when I get home.
 
Found a trick for the high idle. It was getting above 1500 so I unplugged the MAP sensor while it was running. About 20 seconds she stalled. Plugged it back in and idle is normal. Gonna run the tests for the TPS and ECU when I get home.

Unplugging the TPS usually does that too, except the engine does not die.
 
Ok not trying to be lazy here but anyone have a link for testing the TPS and ECU for dummies? I found some links for pre 1996 adjustable TPS's but nadda for the computer controlled ones.
 
Re: Re: AK to HI engine code every new part gets worse

Ok not trying to be lazy here but anyone have a link for testing the TPS and ECU for dummies? I found some links for pre 1996 adjustable TPS's but nadda for the computer controlled ones.

http://www. ehow. com/how_5506751_diagnose-jeep-throttle-position-sensor.html

If you don't have a set of probes that can slip behind the socket's protective boot, I've used paperclips and even sewing needles clamped in alligator clamps.
 
Ok not trying to be lazy here but anyone have a link for testing the TPS and ECU for dummies? I found some links for pre 1996 adjustable TPS's but nadda for the computer controlled ones.

IIRC it is 5 volts into the TPS from the ECU, then a ground wire, and the third wire is the voltage divider output (TPS sensor output) back to the ECU. At idle it should be either 23% or 87% of the 5 volts (or what ever the ECU voltage actually is, 4.75 volts is OK), at WOT it should be the other extreme. The voltage change from idle to WOT must be smooth, best tested with an analog, needle gauge, volt meter (old style, not digital)
 
Thanks guys I'll try it out after work today. Dropped in a new TB and ordered 99+ intake manifold. Other than that havent been able to play with it much. Code went away until I got on the gas the other day and it came back. Another code too saying it was getting high voltage. Guessing bad ground but I'll find out.
 
Sorry to update after so long but got back from leave and started work.

Ok come to find out sensors should never be purchased at auto shops. Checkers, napa, etc. I ordered a MOPAR (keyword) TPS and installed it just now and BAM codes went to a P0443 or something along those lines. Not to worry though because I'm the idiot that unplugged the canister for this. Plugged it back in, cleared the codes and now running the engine to see if it comes back. Engine is still shaking more than I would like but not horrible. WeRMopar.com GREAT GREAT GREAT website. Fast delivery even out here to Hawaii.

On a side note I put 1/3 can of SeaFoam into my TB today and didnt do much. I changed my injectors pretty recently so that could be a bit of it. Thanks again everyone for the help. I apologize for being an idiot
 
Interesting, I have replaced tons of parts on my Renix jeeps (84-89), and never once used an OEM dealer part. And they all run just fine.
 
I've had problems with non-factory parts... seems like a Chrysler jtec thing...

I have had problems with junk "made in China" parts, no matter who sells them. The trick is to find a good "not made in China" part IMHO.

Brand and where it was actually made is very important. When I buy non dealer parts I am very picky, and I do not just go for low price.

With my luck the first time I buy a dealer part it will turn out to be made in China junk at a 400% premium. Nothing like paying extra for junk. I know a lot of people here swear by dealer parts, but I am still a no sale there.

The all brass CSF radiator is far better than OEM for example!!!
 
OK fair point. Any recommendations as to the "not as sucky" Chinese parts manufactures? For example, he needed a tps, I need a map sensor. Electronics unfortunately aren't like the good ole made in USA brass radiators.
 
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