Advice on getting air bumps

Darky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
29 Palms, CA
I'm looking at getting a set of foa air bumps off ebay. The guy is selling them $300 for a pair with mounting cans. I figured for that price, it's worth it to bypass the Daystar bumps and get actual air bumps.

My question is, what length would work best for me? I'm running 5.5" Deaver coils up front that I got from Rich (Wildman) and 3.5" RE leaves with 1" JKS boomerang shackles. I have 12" travel Bilstein 7100 shortbodies in the front and 10" travel shortbodies out back.

I'm primarily looking to do the front right now and get some regular bump stops out back until I can afford both. But since I'm bumpstopless right now...I need to get something in. :)

Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0400093883&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 
heres a thread i made while installing a set of 4" bumps over deaver 5.5's, with a rk 3link, you might find it usefull. we use a 10" fox, but thats specifics you wont get into untill everythings cut out.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016379

were you considering the daystar non-hydraulic, bumpstops? if so, good choice. those require 100% of the work, with little of the benefits.
 
i meant in choosing to use regular foa bumpstops instead, the daystar stuff just isnt cheap enough to make it worth it. imo. if they were like $100/pair, they'd be a good budget option.

no sarcasm =)
 
once they start to hit, your shock valving goes out the window and you have twice the compression valving, which is good except when you arent going all the way to bump.

cherokee's see this often, our short-travel suspension just doesnt warrant the 4".


heres a vid on howto limit a 4" stroke bump to 2"(or whatever) http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...SfkTCj0dQ&sig2=YtU_ixMx2EHRhbS4e9xbQA&cad=rja

and some pics of the project i mentioned earlier at ride height to show you the approximate placement.
 
I don't think you want the 2.5" bumps for a cherokee. Pretty sure a 2.0 would be alot easier to fit but I havent tried it first hand. unless you are doing hard core racing 2.5's seem like overkill.
 
heres a thread i made while installing a set of 4" bumps over deaver 5.5's, with a rk 3link, you might find it usefull. we use a 10" fox, but thats specifics you wont get into untill everythings cut out.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016379

were you considering the daystar non-hydraulic, bumpstops? if so, good choice. those require 100% of the work, with little of the benefits.
Yeah, at $200ish a pair plus cans, the value isn't there. Not when these foas are $300 a pair with cans. I spoke to the seller and he said it was possible to limit a 4" to 2", but I was pretty sure most guys on here were going 2" travel anyways.

As far as running 2.5s vs 2.0s, 2.5s are just what I found the deal on.
 
if you have time on your side I would sit on your dough for now, back when I was being patient I picked up a set of fox 2.0 4" bumps for 150 off of race dezert, deals pop up if you know where to look and can afford to wait. 300 is a lot for used FOAs, I see fox and king bumps come up all the time for that or less, and they generally have a better rep. Not knocking FOA bumps as i've heard nothing bad about em, but their shocks have had some seal problems in the past. Depending on how old these are (you can never tell with used... ) they may have the same problems.
 
Well I just did the Fox 2.0 - 2.5"travel air bumps with the T&J install kit, that has the cans and upper/lower weld in plates.

I have done Alot of fab work in the past, but gave it up for Drivetrain about 4 yrs ago. SO I didnt want to screw with it and put it off for months. It took a whole 5 hours start to finish with proper tools, by myself. SO it wasnt all that bad.

I have yet to test or use them yet. Tomorrow I leave for TDS and will test em out tomorrow to sunday.

The T&J plates made it easy, and I recommend thier kit (Over priced a bit as all thier stuff is typ way overpriced but) it saved me some time I am sure.

My application is unique and wont be the same as yours (Custom brackets, lower spring stand, RJD60 axle, etc), but its still similiar to the typ XJ overall in design.

There was no "tricks" to tell of. Just lots of dirt/debis from the old 1990 body. I would say that the air angle grinder with a brillo pad made it MUCH easier since it was only a 2" wheel it fit in the top side pocket well to remove all the steel down to bare metal for welding.



Foxbump1sm.jpg


Foxbump2sm.jpg

Foxbump3sm.jpg

Foxbump4sm.jpg
 
A 4" limited to two inches will be better for resale, should you ever need to sell them, because they can be converted back and can fit more applications...more potential buyers. Also, they can be fine tuned to any length from one to four inches.
 
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