Last April after a weekend of hard wheeling (The Cove, Corum on 31's a couple times) I drove home uneventfully about 100 miles. Parked for it for 2 weeks and then drove it work and got horrible DW. Been chasing it ever since. The chassis set up is the same as I have run for the two years prior to the DW. Here is what has been done & how the rig is set up:
31's on 4.5" lift
Rear: Trussed Dana 44, Bastard pack, shackle box relocation, 2" lift shackle, 1" block machined for pinion angle (6" long and curved on ends).
Front: HP D30, T-Bird springs plus two extra coil isolators. Rustys adjustable control arms upper and lower with the rebuildable joints on the frame end.
Frame: Plated with 3/16 steel, C-Rok steering box plate.
Track Bar: RE HD. Mount is bolted and welded to frame.
Track Bar Brace: RE bolted and welded on both ends
Here are the new parts since the DW started:
Rebuilt Track bar with new bushings and larger bolt on axle end. New races and ball on frame end. Axle end hole is NOT wallowed out.
New TRE's on tie rod. New TRE on drag link. New drag link.
New rubber bushings on axle end of control arms.
New rubber bushings on both ends of the leaf springs
New races and balls on chassis end of control arms.
New Unit bearings
New Ball joints, upper and lower both sides.
New Steering box.
Used (salvage yard) steering intermediate shaft.
"New" dealer take off ZJ steel wheels. They are straight and true
"New" used tires, AT's. Tires balanced.
All fasteners are TIGHT including rear suspension.
Alignment is 7.5 deg caster, 0 toe. (I have tired a little toe in and a little toe out too along withe 6 deg caster and 8 deg caster. No differences.
Here are the questionable items:
Rear leaf spring is lower at the shackle end than it is at the chassis (big) end. Been like that for a couple years.
The rig has been use HARD since 2004. Prior to plating the frame in 09 you could turn the wheel and SEE the chassis twist, hear it groan and it didnt want to turn in. After plating it was MUCH stiffer.
DW kicks in as low as 35 mph. You can feel it start to build while driving down a smooth road as you pick up speed (makes me think tires). Swapping tires around makes it a bit better (DW kicks in at 45 on a bump) but it can also occur on a smooth but "rolling" road by hitting the throttle hard as the road undulates. I have run as fast as 65 mph on a smooth road but a small bump send it into DW. Feels like the rear kicks into DW as well. Rig jumps up and down when its really bad and chirps tires when you hit the brakes.
I have spent a couple hours under the rig with wife, daughter, neighbor turning the wheel. No slop, clicks, vibrations or motion that should not be there.
Next Steps:
Tire swap with a friend who has a good (no DW rig) on 31's.
Shorter rear shackle, more arch.
Get a new chassis. Could this rig finally be wasted? I lost 55 points on the RTI ramp after I plated the chassis dropped to 715 from 770.
Ideas and suggestions welcome.
John
31's on 4.5" lift
Rear: Trussed Dana 44, Bastard pack, shackle box relocation, 2" lift shackle, 1" block machined for pinion angle (6" long and curved on ends).
Front: HP D30, T-Bird springs plus two extra coil isolators. Rustys adjustable control arms upper and lower with the rebuildable joints on the frame end.
Frame: Plated with 3/16 steel, C-Rok steering box plate.
Track Bar: RE HD. Mount is bolted and welded to frame.
Track Bar Brace: RE bolted and welded on both ends
Here are the new parts since the DW started:
Rebuilt Track bar with new bushings and larger bolt on axle end. New races and ball on frame end. Axle end hole is NOT wallowed out.
New TRE's on tie rod. New TRE on drag link. New drag link.
New rubber bushings on axle end of control arms.
New rubber bushings on both ends of the leaf springs
New races and balls on chassis end of control arms.
New Unit bearings
New Ball joints, upper and lower both sides.
New Steering box.
Used (salvage yard) steering intermediate shaft.
"New" dealer take off ZJ steel wheels. They are straight and true
"New" used tires, AT's. Tires balanced.
All fasteners are TIGHT including rear suspension.
Alignment is 7.5 deg caster, 0 toe. (I have tired a little toe in and a little toe out too along withe 6 deg caster and 8 deg caster. No differences.
Here are the questionable items:
Rear leaf spring is lower at the shackle end than it is at the chassis (big) end. Been like that for a couple years.
The rig has been use HARD since 2004. Prior to plating the frame in 09 you could turn the wheel and SEE the chassis twist, hear it groan and it didnt want to turn in. After plating it was MUCH stiffer.
DW kicks in as low as 35 mph. You can feel it start to build while driving down a smooth road as you pick up speed (makes me think tires). Swapping tires around makes it a bit better (DW kicks in at 45 on a bump) but it can also occur on a smooth but "rolling" road by hitting the throttle hard as the road undulates. I have run as fast as 65 mph on a smooth road but a small bump send it into DW. Feels like the rear kicks into DW as well. Rig jumps up and down when its really bad and chirps tires when you hit the brakes.
I have spent a couple hours under the rig with wife, daughter, neighbor turning the wheel. No slop, clicks, vibrations or motion that should not be there.
Next Steps:
Tire swap with a friend who has a good (no DW rig) on 31's.
Shorter rear shackle, more arch.
Get a new chassis. Could this rig finally be wasted? I lost 55 points on the RTI ramp after I plated the chassis dropped to 715 from 770.
Ideas and suggestions welcome.
John