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98 XJ Limited

Posted in OEM and got brave. Looks like I have voltage into the PCM but nothing coming out. Suggestions on good scanners that aren't too expensive? Also that is the starter wire harness. You unplug that gray connector and I get a no crank issue. So now I know what I need to find at the Pull a part not cut up!
 
I have an Actron CP9145. It will read both OBD-1 & OBD-2. It also gives the actual code description along with the number, plus provides real-time data. I've never had an issue with it and its been an excellent investment. There are less expensive ones on the market, as well as more expensive. I felt it was the best compromise for my needs. If you're only looking for something to read & ease codes there are several good ones out there for under $100.
 
Yea I need a scanner... Computer in and she's alive! Started the hatch swap with LG and Ben and one of his buddies last night. Might get this thing on the road by URE trip after all!!!!
 
Ok so now she has an airbag light and no horn.... UGH! FML with the steering column issues. Lenny and the rest seem to think its the clock spring. Got the back glass cut out the old hatch yesterday and installed into the new hatch. Taking her to URE Saturday for a shake down run.
 
If it doesn't have cruise I have a clock spring that I know is good I'll sell ya cheap.

Yea my luck.... it has cruise.... it's a Limited!
 
I'll tell ya what. I'll trade ya my clock spring and steering wheel button delete pieces for your steering wheel buttons and cruise servo. :)

um... no!
 
Replaced the front shocks. It bounced like a fat boy on a pogo stick. Got everything mostly back together. Now today drove her on DD duty and she threw a CEL. P0420 and P1694. It sounds like it has some sort of exhaust leak or cracked manifold. I'll look into that more later. The P1694 is kind of ambiguous. Thoughts?
 
A quick search turned up this thread:

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f20/code-p1694-10640/

I'm at work right now so I can't spend a whole lot of time on it. Maybe that will get you pointed in the right direction. Could also explain why you had no response from the PCM before.

Thanks!
Yea I searched a good bit last night and found that code to be all sorts of things including a no bus with computer issue, CPS issue, and fuse 22 issue just to name a few. I will swap the repaired computer in after work today. I also found this and will eventually try and test the O2 sensor.

For the HO years, 91-02, the O2 sensor has 4 wires. One wire is the 12-14 volt power that comes from the O2 sensor heater relay on the passenger side firewall (unless they moved them in later years to the relay & fuse boxes?), and that powers the internal heater in the sensor so that the sensor can work at idle, and almost immedietly after start up. Loss of that power will hurt gas mileage even with a good O2 sensor.

Two black wires are grounds for the heater power and O2 signal to the ECU. A poor ground will limit current to the O2 sensors heater or cause an error in the O2 sensor output voltage read by the PCM (ECU) causing poor mileage even with a good O2 sensor. Test the 2 ground wires with power off. Test between the wire end at the sensor and the battery negative ground post. It should read less than 1 ohm.

The last wire, #4, is a signal feed wire, 0-1 volts, from the O2 sensor to the PCM (ECU) sensor. The O2 sensor is an O2 concentration sensitive variable voltage generator. At optimal O2 concentration the O2 sensor puts out 0.45 volts.

At idle that voltage should read 0.1-0.9 volts oscillating quickly back and forth roughly once every second. At 2000 rpm it should run between 0.4 and 0.5 volts max (in park). A digital meter can NOT be used for reading the O2 sensor voltage, but it can be used to test the grounds and the 12-14 volts to the heater. You must use an old style analog meter with the needle gauge on the display to see the voltage swing back and forth.

If the O2 sensor readings are not right, say they read .1 volts or .8 volts steady, you have a problem. BUT before you blame the O2 sensor make sure it has good wiring, and make sure the proper voltage is feeding it, by turning power on, engine off to read the engine off voltage feeds (12-14 on one, and ensure the ground wires (power off) reads less than 1 ohm to the battery negative post.

A leaky exhaust system or leaky fuel injector(s), or bad compression or leaky valves, bad plugs, wires, cap, rotor, HV coil, and so on, or combination of these, can also cause a lean or rich condition that gives you high or low O2 sensor readings that are not the O2 sensors fault, so try and verify those other items also before buying parts like an O2 sensor to fix your problem.


I am fairly certain I hear an exhaust leak. LG did say there was a hole in the muffler. I haven't had much time to dig into it yet sense it just happened. It needs to be put on a trailer and taken to a wash place to get it good and clean underneath before I do too much more on it!
 
If it's the manifold, it'll be cracked at the "Y" junction, where they all crack. They're pretty straight forward to replace.
 
If it's the manifold, it'll be cracked at the "Y" junction, where they all crack. They're pretty straight forward to replace.

Yea I looked at that last night and it looked fine. I saw the "newer" design on eBay for less then $100 in stainless steel last night. I was kind of surprised at that. I think there is a hole in the cat and not the muffler. Which if I understand all this will throw that O2 code.
 
I'm running a Dorman manifold I got off the shelf locally. Lifetime warranty and they have expansion joints in them now.

Haven't had a cracked manifold in several years now.
 
Ok so update time... Finally got all the exhaust from the down pipe to the muffler replaced. Two new O2 sensors and replaced the rear shocks. She is now being DD by Glenn. It was running a little rough at first but I chalk that up to mainly sitting for a month. Next is new tires and headliner repair, seat repair, and find a new driver rear door panel. I bought oil, filter, and air filter for her last night. Glenn is going to change the oil this weekend while at his aunt and uncles house. Now I can chase that starter gremlin in the Beat up Benz! :cheers:
 
Ok so the Green jeep has been to URE and Gulches. Done well so for with the balding BFG AT's. I have been impressed with them over the years. They just plain work well and last a long time for what they are. So it's new tire time. Get another set of BFG or is there something a little less pricey that is comparable? Real world first hand experience please.
 
Ok so the Green jeep has been to URE and Gulches. Done well so for with the balding BFG AT's. I have been impressed with them over the years. They just plain work well and last a long time for what they are. So it's new tire time. Get another set of BFG or is there something a little less pricey that is comparable? Real world first hand experience please.


Nate has the hankook atm's on jennies jeep and has been impressed.
 
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