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98 SE 5.3 Swap and Other Stuff

This is interesting. I didn't know this. I'm running a 19x22 radiator as well. I'll have to look for one next run to the pick n pull. :)

yup i stumbled on one in a junk yard the older 2.5s came with 19x22 ish rads and condensers, alternatively there are lots of similar sized condensers in other trucks/suv's as well

im still a little baffeled on how to get the a/c working but ill figure that out when i get to it, im in jeep wiring hell right now
 
im still a little baffeled on how to get the a/c working but ill figure that out when i get to it, im in jeep wiring hell right now

I'm in the same boat. No idea if I cut too much out of the harness or how it works. I'm going to worry about it later after the thing is on the road. I'm using the GM compressor too. I have an FSM to study at least... I'll be sure to post up the info if I get it figured out :)
 
thats what im doing too

i left the gm computer controlled A/C , using the gm compressor, in the tune and im leaving the jeep side wiring in place for now as well till i figure out what to do.

1)get the damn thing running and driving
2) A/C
3)emissions
4) cruise control
5)performance tune
 
From my previous reading (I don't have my links I saved) but you'll use all of the Jeep wiring because the AC is run by the CAN-BUS. A condenser is a condenser from my understanding and they all do approximately the same thing. There's only one wire to it to engage the clutches. But that's from my limited research on AC.

I'm in Vegas so AC is critical
 
From my previous reading (I don't have my links I saved) but you'll use all of the Jeep wiring because the AC is run by the CAN-BUS. A condenser is a condenser from my understanding and they all do approximately the same thing. There's only one wire to it to engage the clutches. But that's from my limited research on AC.

I'm in Vegas so AC is critical

my jeep is older than yalls tho, with the older style dash/hvac controls before the got to chryslered-up.
 
Got the motor put back in yesterday but strained my back in the process. I ordered sealer for the fuel tank which showed up Thursday. Hopefully I can get that done this coming week.
 
Well my back is finally feeling better so I got some things done this past weekend. Made an adapter for my intake tube, got my fuel tank sealed on the inside and I have done more on the harness. Its really close to being done. Essentially just battery cables and a few small connections left to button up. Also you can see some of the pics are not blurry as shit. I finally ordered a new lens cover for my phone. Sorry for all the shitty pics up to this point

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Also my neighbor is selling his XJ so he traded me his Ravines and General Grabber red letters for my black Soft 8's and BFG ATs. I plan on powder coating one of the sets of Ravines I have in the near future. Gotta have black wheels.
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Hopefully posting another video soon too.
 
I'm exhausted.......... Exhausted........ is this thing on? :)

I made a pretzel out of tube. Disregard the booger welds:
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Part numbers:
Magnaflow 11219 Satin Stainless Steel 3" Oval Muffler
Magnaflow 94109 Universal 3" Catalytic Converter

2.5" mid pipes into 3" cat/muff all the way out the back.
 
Where does the front driveshaft go?? Above the cross tube?

It looks like exhaust routing is A LOT easier with short arms!

Yeah that is what the slight dip in the cross tube is for. Driveshaft clearance. I only have 4" of lift so I couldn't run the exhaust under the bell housing like everyone else does. I may need to make some heat shields to protect the harness and fuel line along the frame under there.
 
Trying to figure out the best way to run exhaust on a V8 XJ is indeed a pain...
The dip for driveshaft clearance looks vulnerable if you plan to take this through the rocks, especially with a smaller lift.
I'm not getting your comment about how only 4" of lift prohibits you from running the left side pipe under the bellhousing, please explain.
 
Trying to figure out the best way to run exhaust on a V8 XJ is indeed a pain...
The dip for driveshaft clearance looks vulnerable if you plan to take this through the rocks, especially with a smaller lift.
I'm not getting your comment about how only 4" of lift prohibits you from running the left side pipe under the bellhousing, please explain.

Complete pain in the ass :)

I pulled my front springs and cycled the suspension with the front driveshaft in and at full stuff there was only maybe an inch of clearance between the driveshaft and the bell housing. I set the motor as low as I could when I built the motor mounts.

This thing is not a rock monster. Honestly 95% of its life is on pavement and we go camping/exploring in the summers. I agree that one spot hangs low but it looks worse than it is. Its maybe 1" below the cross member.
 
Final piece of the exhaust puzzle completed and installed today.

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I'm going to try to drop off my driveshafts this week for shortening/lengthening/balancing. Then its on to radiator/trans cooler/AC condenser mounting.
 
Got a couple things done last weekend. Finished my belt tensioner and found a belt that fits. 05 Chevy Malibu. Found a really neat cruise control switch at the JY so I swapped out my blue LED button I had already put in. Got my overflow mounted and my wiring is at about 99% and will stay like that until I figure out my AC stuff. No clue how that works so that will take some research.

Dropped off my drive shafts at a local shop last Friday. Total to have one shortened and one lengthened was about $245 until he called me today. Both slip joints were garbage so now my total is about $480. Ouch. Wasn't planning on that.

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Working on a radiator mount later this week and the driveshafts are going in so there's a slight possibility it may get run longer than 30 seconds this coming weekend.
 
So is that cruise button just an On/Off switch?

Yes the GM cruise circuit is pretty simple with a drive by wire TB. Constant 12v to arm it, then momentary 12v signals for Set/Coast and Resume/Accel. That particular switch is a push on when rocked to the right and push off when rocked to the left.

I had this button on there but wanted something that looked more OEM.
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Here's the info for it. Everything but the brake switch signal goes to the TAC module.

http://lt1swap.com/dbw.htm
 
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