FWIW, the FSM specs no more than a 20psi drop in fuel pressure after being shut down for 30 minutes. Thus, if you have the normal 31psi idle fuel pressure, it should be at least 11psi 30 minutes after shutting down.
(My experience is that it raises to 35-38psi if the motor is hot due to expansion from heat soak, then slowly bleeds away after several hours).
If you have a leakdown problem, and you don't see an external leak, suspect:
(1) The in-tank hose section
(2) The check valve (at the outlet end of the in-tank pump)
(3) The fuel pressure regulator
For what it's worth...
I do have more trouble with hard starts in "transition seasons" when they're switching blends. Seems as if at the seasonal switch, the lower vapor pressure blends boil in the rail when shut down. This makes it hard to restart because there's vapor left in the rail that hasn't bled out. It'll "catch" and stutter for a few revs, then clear up and idle right.
You have some pretty cold temps up there right now...it will be difficult to get enough fuel vapor into a cold motor to get a start without it pooling and flooding.
(My experience is that it raises to 35-38psi if the motor is hot due to expansion from heat soak, then slowly bleeds away after several hours).
If you have a leakdown problem, and you don't see an external leak, suspect:
(1) The in-tank hose section
(2) The check valve (at the outlet end of the in-tank pump)
(3) The fuel pressure regulator
For what it's worth...
I do have more trouble with hard starts in "transition seasons" when they're switching blends. Seems as if at the seasonal switch, the lower vapor pressure blends boil in the rail when shut down. This makes it hard to restart because there's vapor left in the rail that hasn't bled out. It'll "catch" and stutter for a few revs, then clear up and idle right.
You have some pretty cold temps up there right now...it will be difficult to get enough fuel vapor into a cold motor to get a start without it pooling and flooding.