88 Wrangler Slave Drips from Bellhousing... Assistance Please!

JeffWiedemann

NAXJA Forum User
Guys,
I need some advice for the next way to proceed on this one. My brother and I who are both car novices have tried to repair the leaking slave cylinder of our 88 wrangler. We pulled the engine the first time and dropped the tranny the second time. When the engine was pulled we did a new clutch kit/new slave, but that clutch kit slave did NOT include the metal hydraulic line, so we are still using the old hydraulic line. We did no testing before putting the engine back in, and of course, when we got it back in... it leaked steadily and immediately from the bellhousing when depressing the clutch.

So round two, we dropped the tranny, we still used the same (new) slave but all we did was make sure the o-rings were seated properly and that things looked good. We tested it outside of the car by hooking up the hydraulic line and putting the slave in a C-Clamp and stepping on the clutch pedal. First time we did that... we blew out the o-ring. So we reseated the o-ring once again and tried it again. This time, it seemed to hold up ok to moderate clutch pedal pressure, so we went ahead and reinstalled it and remounted the tranny. After bolting tranny to engine... we bled again and did more testing. Everything worked great, you could hear the cylinder actuating in the bellhousing when my brother hit the clutch, and there were no leaks. (We pumped the clutch for a good 5 minutes straight and nothing was leaking) So, we start reassembly of the car... and a mere 30 minutes later... as I am pumping the clutch, it starts leaking from the GD bellhousing!!!

I'm wondering if anyone can opine as to why it leaks. In my opinion, the hydraulic connection into the cylinder is suspect... the tubing looked ok, but as I said before, I'm a novice and don't really know what to look for. The metal tubing that inserts into the plastic of the slave is retained with just a little U shaped pin that is supposed to hold it all together under that hydraulic pressure. Is it possible that that line is torquing when the clutch is depressed and causing the o-ring to not seal correctly. There is so much play in the hydraulic tubing when it is installed... I can grab the tubing on the back side of the bellhousing and move it back and forth as I please. (That is the torquing that I am talking about) And most importantly, if I get a new slave WITH new metal tubing, will that solve my problem? My brother is at his wits end, and I doubt I can get anymore than one more tranny removal out of him. :)

Any advice would be great...

One more issue... when I reinstalled the shift lever, I was not able to shift into any gears... it felt like the lever was jammed to the far left... I could move it right (as if I was getting ready to shift into 5 or R) but could not jam it left (as if I was getting ready to shift to 1 or 2). Did I screw up the alignment of the forks or something?
 
When I replaced the internal slave cylinder on a BA 10/5 the hydraulic lines also felt too loose. They used the same system as you decribe: there's a shoulder built in to the metal line which is secured by a clip when installed. The new cylinder came with two o-rings which are placed on the far end of the shoulder.

I augmented the orings with some additional ones so that there's a stack with a lot of contact area between the line and the cylinder. With the extra o-rings there's just enough play to get the clip installed, holding the line in place. Previously, it almost just dropped in.

I haven't seen any problems with it, so that might fix it for you.
 
It's also possible that the crimp on the "soft" line is starting to let go, and that the dripping is travelling down the hardline into the bellhousing and dripping from there (since fluids will travel to the lowest point they can reach before they fall off. Funny that way...)

Wipe the junction clean, and watch it while a helper pumps the clutch a couple of times (or do it yourself, and slide back under and see if the end of the rubber hose is wet with fluid.) You do not need to engine running to do this, and you do not need to pull anything to bits for this check.
 
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