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6.0 LS Swap

JeremyB said:
lt1swap.com

I was very pleased with him. Complete plug and play and passed Ga emissions 1st try.
Click to expand...

Didn't you use the stock Jeep fuel pump and 49 psi regulator? I sent him a list of specs for my build and he wrote back saying I'd have trouble with the 49 psi fuel pressure. I asked if he could adjust the fuel map or maybe adjust it through the injector flow sizing in the software. Waiting to hear back on it.

It shouldn't be a big deal. It essentially means that he could tell the computer that there are 23.1 lb/hr injectors instead of the standard 25.2 units. This should cause all fuel values to be increased proportionately.
 
Aggie_Cobra said:
Didn't you use the stock Jeep fuel pump and 49 psi regulator? I sent him a list of specs for my build and he wrote back saying I'd have trouble with the 49 psi fuel pressure. I asked if he could adjust the fuel map or maybe adjust it through the injector flow sizing in the software. Waiting to hear back on it.

It shouldn't be a big deal. It essentially means that he could tell the computer that there are 23.1 lb/hr injectors instead of the standard 25.2 units. This should cause all fuel values to be increased proportionately.
Click to expand...

I used the Jeep pump and GM regulator at first then changed to a returnless system with a 255 pump, Holly rails, and Corvette filter/regulator.
 
Aggie_Cobra said:
Didn't you use the stock Jeep fuel pump and 49 psi regulator? I sent him a list of specs for my build and he wrote back saying I'd have trouble with the 49 psi fuel pressure. I asked if he could adjust the fuel map or maybe adjust it through the injector flow sizing in the software. Waiting to hear back on it.

It shouldn't be a big deal. It essentially means that he could tell the computer that there are 23.1 lb/hr injectors instead of the standard 25.2 units. This should cause all fuel values to be increased proportionately.
Click to expand...

I tuned mine with HP tuners, using the stock Jeep fuel system. Im running an LS6 intake manifold/injectors, I just input the 49PSI equivalent flow into the tune for the injectors. Most likely it runs out of fuel around or before 5000 RPM so I have extra fuel added in up top and from what I can see there doesnt seem to be any starvation, but its probably totally maxed out (havent logged the injector duty cycle). If its possible you should upgrade the system. That said, it runs perfectly fine at the speed and load that it sees 99.999% of the time
 
Been a while since Ive been in there, Jeremy I haven't forgot about ya just stupid busy.

Were you able to get that NOVAK tach adapter thing to work? I'm prepping everythjng for a possible winter 5.3 install. My engine guy is doing some major head work, in theory with the right cam/intake It could me 500hp with proper fuel delivery.

I'm looking at buying all the Novak parts around thanksgiving.
Motor mounts, headers and tach adapter? Or..... Just get an Autometer 4" for $100 and call it a day?
 
sardo_67 said:
Been a while since Ive been in there, Jeremy I haven't forgot about ya just stupid busy.

Were you able to get that NOVAK tach adapter thing to work? I'm prepping everythjng for a possible winter 5.3 install. My engine guy is doing some major head work, in theory with the right cam/intake It could me 500hp with proper fuel delivery.

I'm looking at buying all the Novak parts around thanksgiving.
Motor mounts, headers and tach adapter? Or..... Just get an Autometer 4" for $100 and call it a day?
Click to expand...

Same here. Not much free time to work on the Jeep. Paying customers come first.
I just used an Autometer tach. Plan on swapping to all Autometer this winter just for looks.
Haven't had any time to finish the AC brackets.
 
JeremyB said:
Click to expand...

Can you snap a picture of where the cable bracket mounts and where the cable runs? Mine seems to be too close to the manifolds, hoping I can find another routing solution but I might need to just weld a new tab to the firewall to clip the cable into and away from the exhaust manifold
 
My lack of personal LS mod work had been outdone by my engine guy. He's done some major head work and flow bench testing, since he's almost at 270cfm in theory 500+ hp is possible with the right cam/injectors so I'm pretty pumped.

However, that means $600 torque converter is needed too hahah.

Figure out yiur axle ideas yet? My spider9s are done and under it now. Still have a lot of body trimming to do though.
 
sardo_67 said:
My lack of personal LS mod work had been outdone by my engine guy. He's done some major head work and flow bench testing, since he's almost at 270cfm in theory 500+ hp is possible with the right cam/injectors so I'm pretty pumped.

However, that means $600 torque converter is needed too hahah.

Figure out yiur axle ideas yet? My spider9s are done and under it now. Still have a lot of body trimming to do though.
Click to expand...

is your XJ caged? If youre going to be running 500 HP you might as well forget about 1st gear, I can hardly use it in my stock power 5.3 :firedevil. At 500 HP even in the very tough 4l80 youre looking at a minimum of a mildly built (stage 1 or 2) trans if you plan to get any sort of longevity out of it, or just run a lot of torque management on shifts I guess.
 
Not trying to hijack this thread but no cage in mine, prob need one though. Doing frame stiffeners at least and I have a long arm/4link subframe welded under it now already.
5:29s in the axles with 38.5s and maybe 40s later not sure yet.

Not looking to use it as a rock bouncer and it will mostly be a street rig but may take it offroad a little.

You're talking about WOT shifts at 6,800/7,000rpms as being what will destroy the 60E correct? Then programming the comp to shift the trans slightly slower to avoid some of the shock loads.
 
sardo_67 said:
You're talking about WOT shifts at 6,800/7,000rpms as being what will destroy the 60E correct? Then programming the comp to shift the trans slightly slower to avoid some of the shock loads.
Click to expand...

I was figuring an 80e for 500hp. I know a 60e starts to risk breaking hard parts at that point just holding the gear, particularly the older ones that don't have 65e and 70e upgrades. The sun shell in particular is pretty weak on the 60e. On the 80e I was just thinking clutches wearing out more quickly. An 80e can definitely hold 500 hp no problem but still run the risk of burning it out if the shift is slow for any reason. I wouldn't want to run a stock 60e behind a 500hp engine unless I had plans to build one soon, but I am also inclined to have an overbuilt transmission. I'm running a wide band, corvette servo, sonnax smart shell, sonnax upgrade 1-2 accumulator spring, and stage 1 clutches in my 65e behind my stock power level 5.3. I guess I just don't trust automatic transmissions is pretty much what it boils down to, but the 60e does have a reputation for not being that great in stock form on modded engines. Upgraded 60e's though can handle a lot of power.
 
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